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CINCINNATI,  COLUMBUS,  CLEVELAND  &  ERIE 

RAILROAD  GUIDE. 


THE 


OHIO  RAILROAD  GUIDE, 

ILLUSTRATED. 


CINCINNATI  TO  ERIE, 

VIA 

COLUMBUS  AND  CLEVELAND. 


OHIO 


COLUMBUS: 
STATE  JOURNAL  COMPANY. 
1854. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1854,  by  the 
OHIO  STATE  JOURNAL  COMPANY, 
In  the  Clerk's  office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  District  of  Ohio. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Page. 

X^l.  Map  of  Depot  Grounds  at  Cleveland,      -      -      Front  Title. 

2.  Vignette  Title,  "  M 

3.  Passenger  Depot  at  Cincinnati,  5 

4.  Car  Shops  and  Engine  Depot  at  Pendleton,      -  -  13 

5.  Scene  by  Moonlight  at  Red  Bank,  16 

6.  View  of  Milford,  --20 

7.  View  near  Milford,  21 

8.  View  of  Germany,        -   22 

9.  Bridge  over  Little  Miami  at  Miamiville,  23 

10.  Junction  Hillsborough  Railroad  at  Loveland.       -      -  24 

11.  Bridge  over  Miami  River  at  Foster's  Crossings,  25 

12.  View  of  Morrow  from  the  South,  28 

13.  View  of  Morrow  from  tub  East,  29 

14.  View  near  Fort  Ancient,  on  L.  M.  R.  R.,      -      -      -      -  33 

15.  View  of  Station  House  at  Xenia,  41 

16.  London,  Madison  County,  44 

17.  Bridge  over  Big  Darby,  on  C.  &  X.  R.  R.,       -  45 

18.  View  of  Ohio  Penitentiary  and  Bridge  over  Scioto,    -  53 

19.  View  of  State  House  and  High  Street,  Columbus,     -  56 

20.  Lunatic  Asylum,  Columbus,  57 

21.  Delaware  Station,  -  64 

22.  Shelby  Junction,  76 

23.  Grafton  Station,  80 

24.  Bridge  over  Black  River,  near  Grafton,   •      -      -      -  81 

25.  Euclid  Creek,     -   96 

26.  Bridge  over  Grand  River,  -  101 

27.  Bridge  over  Conneaut  River,  112 

28.  Bridge  over  Crooked  Creek,  Springfield,  Pa.,       -      -  120 


THE  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE. 


IJlf  <f  f  <T$!  whoever  thou  art  stop 

one  moment,  to  contemplate  the  progress  and 
grandeur  of  this  Western  Empire !  In  Europe,  Asia 
and  Africa,  you  will  be  called  to  admire  ancient 
castles,  ruined  temples,  fallen  columns,  and  all  the 
evidences  of  a  magnificence  which  is  either  already 
old,  or  fallen  to  decay.  It  was  achieved  by  labor — 
put  forth  in  ages  past — and  is  made  interesting  and 
glorious,  by  memories  and  associations  which  are 
now  only  historical.  The  banks  of  the  Rhine,  still 
populous  with  its  millions,  are  thus  filled  with  the 
castellated  remains  of  former  greatness.  The  Nile, 
the  Tigris  and  the  Euphrates,  are  lined  with  the  ruins 
of  Thebes  and  Heliopolis,  of  Babylon,  of  Nineveh, 
and  those  thousands  of  cities  and  temples,  which 
once  stood  glorious  monuments  of  ancient  magnifi- 
cence— the  pride  and  admiration  of  a  world  !  There 
you  stand  amidst  ruins.  All  is  absorbed  in  memory! 
All  testifies  to  the  mutation  of  human  affairs  —  to 
Decline  and  Fall. 
2 


2 


The  Illustrated  Guide. 


Now  look  around  you*!  —  Mark  what  you  see  !  — 
You  have  passed  to  the  very  antipodes  of  scene,  and 
time,  and  event.  The  Past  is  gone ;  the  Present 
lives  before  you.  The  new  Empire  is  not  falling, 
but  rising  to  glory  and  grandeur.  There  rolls  the 
Ohio,  graceful  in  its  curves,  surrounded  with  green 
hills,  but  crowned  with  no  castles, —  having  no  mem- 
ories save  those  of  the  red  Indian,  who  disappeared 
but  yesterday,  and  calling  up  no  association  of 
Egyptian  or  Gothic  gods  —  of  Cambyses,  Frederick, 
or  Napoleon,  leading  the  heavy  tramp  of  armies,  in 
the  career  of  war  and  conquest.  Some  border  wars 
of  the  early  time  there  have  been,  but  none  which 
destroyed  or  revolutionized  nations.  The  white  man 
came  to  possess  a  land  which  none  had  cultivated, 
and  here,  all  around  you,  are  the  peaceful  fruits  of 
his  labors.  The  thronged  city,  with  its  work-shops, 
its  marts,  its  stores,  its  canals,  its  roads,  its  churches 
and  schools  ;  the  vine-clad  hills,  the  Corinthian  house, 
the  distant  cottage,  the  observatory  of  science  —  and 
all  that  the  labor  and  art  of  the  modern  can  furnish 
—  are  here,  on  the  banks  of  the  Beautiful  River. 
Whence  came  this  magic  creation  ?  Is  it  due  to  the 
sacrifice  of  blood  ?  to  the  conquests  of  a  great  hero  ? 
to  the  government  of  an  illustrious  monarch  ?  to  the 
well-ordered  discipline  of  feudal  retainers  ?  —  Or  to 
some  extraordinary  performance  of  human  genius  ? 
or  to  some  miraculous  interposition  of  Providence  ? 


The  Knight  of  Industry.  3 

To  none  of  these  is  this  creation  due,  though  this 

land  has  received  the  richest  gifts  of  Nature,  and  the 

smiles  of  Providence.  It  i%  however,  the  work  of  an 

ancient  knight  —  one  who  dwelt  in  Egypt,  Greece, 

and  Rome,  in  their  golden  times,  but  has  now  left 

their  ruins  gray,  to  inhabit  and  invigorate  this  new 

and  rising  Empire.    The  Knight  of  Industry  is  his 

name,  and  he  it  is  who  has  cultured  the  fields;  and 

"  The  towns  has  quicken' d  by  mechanic  arts, 
And  bade  the  fervent  city  glow  with  toil." 

In  truth,  all  that  you  see  in  this  metropolis  of  the 
Ohio  Valley,  is  the  result  of  only  half  a  century  of 
hard  work.  This  is  a  plain  term,  but  it  expresses  the 
whole.  Only  a  little  more  than  half  a  century  since, 
the  red  Indian  contended  for  the  site  of  Cincinnati, 
and  the  stockade  —  Fort  Washington — was  the  only 
strong-hold  of  the  white  in  this  valley.  Soon  the 
Indian  disappeared ;  the  hut  became  useless,  and  was 
abandoned ;  the  town  grew  up,  at  first  only  a  dirty 
village,  and  now  a  great  and  prosperous  city,  full  of 
art,  commerce,  and  wealth.  No  where  else  can  so 
entire  a  transformation,  accomplished  in  so  short  a 
time,  be  found.  Viewed  in  its  just  light,  it  is  a  far 
greater  wonder  than  any  of  the  old  and  renowned 
ruins  of  the  earth.  It  is  not  wonderful,  that  Time 
and  Decay  should  destroy  the  mightiest  work  of 
man,  or  that  man  should  be  capable  of  great  works, 
when  he  has  time  sufficient ;  but  that  he  should  per- 


4 


The  Illustrated  Guide. 


form  the  work  of  centuries  in  a  single  generation, 
and  that  he  should  transform  the  dark  wilderness 
into  the  fruitful  field  and  blooming  garden,  within 
the  limits  of  a  life,  seems  like  the  marvels  of  an  Orien- 
tal story,  or  rather  like  the  fulfillment  of  those  an- 
cient prophecies,  which  speak  of  the  desert  blooming 
like  the  rose.  But  —  the  cars  are  starting  —  let  us. 
note  what  we  see  on  the  way. 

The  Little  Miami  Rail  Road  did  not  exist  twelve 
years  since  —  nor  any  other  railway  in  the  Valley 
of  the  Ohio  —  but  now  it  is  here,  to  take  you  on 
your  journey  with  all  the  speed,  comfort  and  conve- 
nience of  any  such  road,  in  any  country ;  and  there 
are  three  thousand  miles  of  railway  in  this  valley ! 
Year  after  year  hundreds  of  miles  are  added  to  the 
number,  and  where  it  once  took  weeks  to  accomplish 
a  journey,  it  now  takes  only  hours  !  What  a  revo- 
lution !  But  the  revolution  is  not  in  the  gain  of 
time  only,  nor  even  money.  The  great  change  is  in 
society.  Thousands  meet  now  where  tens  could  meet 
twenty  years  since.  Look  through  these  cars,  and 
you  see  around,  men,  women  and  children  going  to 
see  friends,  or  transact  business,  or  seeking  pleasure, 
where  they  would  not  have  dreamed  of  going  a  few 
years  since.  Some  are  going  only  to  the  next  town ; 
some  to  the  Lakes ;  some  to  the  Atlantic ;  some  to 
Europe  ;  —  and  some,  perhaps,  will  wander  through 
old  Jerusalem,  or  by  the  banks  of  Jordan,  before  they 


Little  Miami  Rail  Road.  5 

will  again  return.  The  Railroad  and  the  Steamboat 
have  made  man  almost  ubiquitous  on  this  little  earth, 
and  his  fondness  for  novelty  and  change  is  gratified 
beyond  the  dreams  of  fancy.  Where  will  this  stop  ? 
No  where,  till  this  earth  is  inhabited  by  one  family, 
dwelling  together  in  peace  and  unity. 

Before  we  start,  let  us  look  at  this  Depot.  I  have 
seen  many  fine  depots,  in  the  east  and  the  west  — 
some  of  solid,  beautiful  stone  —  but  I  have  seen  none 
more  spacious  or  convenient  than  this.  It  is  recently 
finished;  and  there  will  be  need  of  all  its  accommo- 
dations, for  the  immense  congregation  of  persons  and 
things,  gathering  here  from  the  numerous  lines  of 
railway,  North  and  East.  Already  there  are  five  or 
six  hundred  miles  of  Ohio  Railroads,  whose  whole 
business  with  Cincinnati  centres  here,  and  the  num- 
ber is  continually  increasing.  This  building  is  465 
feet  long,  90  feet  wide,  and  30  feet  high.  It  is,  as 
you  see,  built  in  the  most  solid  manner,  and  beauti- 
fully arched.  It  covers  just  an  acre  of  ground,  and 
would  contain  ten  thousand  people.  On  the  oppo- 
site side  you  will  see  another  Depot,  also  very  large. 
In  these  depots,  and  in  the  machine  shop  beyond, 
are  included  four  or  five  acres  of  ground,  nearly 
covered  with  buildings,  and  all  absolutely  necessary 
to  accommodate  the  immense  business  of  the  Rail- 
way. 

Before  we  start,  let  us  recognize  the  localities 


6  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

around  the  Depot.  We  are  now  just  at  the  foot  of 
Deer  Creek,  over  which  is  the  stone  bridge  you  have 
just  passed.  This  little  stream  is  only  two  miles  in 
length,  originating  on  the  top  of  the  northern  hills, 
and  running  down  the  ravine  in  which  you  see  the 
Miami  Canal,  whose  outlet  is  just  below  the  bridge. 
The  creek  is  now  covered  most  of  the  way  by  a  stone 
culvert.  At  the  head  of  it,  about  a  mile  above  the 
Depot,  are  the  principal  slaughtering  establishments; 
and  in  former  years,  I  have  seen  the  creek  running 
with  blood,  from  the  hogs  killed  upon  it.  In  the 
cold  weather  of  December  and  January,  thousands 
of  these  animals  are  slaughtered  each  day,  and  the 
stream  is  crimsoned  till  it  mingles  with  the  Ohio. 

Up  Deer  Creek  ravine,  if  you  cast  a  look,  facto- 
ries, foundries  and  mills  arise  in  continual  succession 
far  as  the  eye  can  see.  Most  of  them  are  turned  by 
the  water  power  of  the  canal ;  but  some  are  car- 
ried on  by  steam,  which  is  now  very  cheap.  This  is 
one  of  the  busiest  parts  of  the  town,  and  an  immense- 
ly heavy  business  is  transacted  in  its  neighborhood. 
Sugar  mills  for  Louisiana,  locomotives  for  railways, 
machinery  of  all  kinds,  linseed  oil,  flour,  candles, 
soap,  and  numerous  other  articles,  are  manufactured 
in  Deer  Creek  valley.  The  value  of  these  manufac- 
tures, in  this  little  ravine  alone,  amounts  to  some 
three  or  four  millions  of  dollars  per  annum  ;  and  yet 
it  is  but  a  small  part  of  what  is  done  in  Cincinnati. 


The  Observatory. 


7 


Now  let  us  glance  at  something  very  different.  Out 
of  sight,  but  on  the  summit  of  the  hill  just  to  your 
left,  is  the  Observatory.  The  hill  on  which  it  stands 
is  called  Mount  Adams,  from  John  Quincy  Adams, 
who  laid  the  corner-stone  of  the  building.  The  Ob- 
servatory was  founded  by  Professor  Mitchell,  whose 
untiring  exertions  procured  subscriptions  among  all 
classes  of  people,  which,  with  his  own  labor  and  per- 
severance, accomplished  the  work.  The  structure  is 
quite  a  handsome  one,  and  fitted  with  the  larger 
class  of  astronomical  instruments,  though  it  still 
needs  many  of  the  minor  appurtenances  of  a  com- 
plete one.  The  great  equatorial  Telescope  is  one  of 
the  finest  in  the  world,  and  is  to  the  eye,  as  well  as 
to  science,  really  magnificent.  The  focal  length  is 
17  2  feet,  and  the  diameter  of  the  object  glass  12 
inches.  It  is  mounted  on  a  stone  pedestal  of  great 
strength,  and  is  made  of  the  most  beautiful  brass, 
polished  to  the  brightness  of  a  mirror.  Although 
weighing  2,500  pounds,  it  may  be  moved  to  any 
point  with  your  little  finger,  so  nicely  adjusted  are 
the  pivots  and  wheels  on  which  it  moves.  Should 
the  stranger  in  Cincinnati  ever  find  an  opportunity, 
he  will  be  delighted  with  the  scenery  of  the  siderial 
heavens,  presented  through  this  glass.  Saturn,  with 
its  golden  rings ;  the  Moon,  and  her  dim  and  shad- 
owy mountains ;  Jupiter,  and  his  attendant  satelites 


8 


The  Illustrated  Guide. 


—  all  are  beautiful  and  lovely,  and,  to  one  who  lias 
never  seen  this  telescopic  vision,  most  wonderful. 

It  is  very  singular,  yet  true,  that  this  same  hill 
was  once  used  as  an  Indian  observatory ;  but  not  to 
observe  the  heavens — nor  look  through  telescopes — 
nor  count  the  glowing  orbs,  as  they  career  through 
the  skies.  No  ;  the  Indian  made  an  observatory  of 
the  tops  of  the  high  trees  on  the  hill,  to  see  what  the 
white  men  were  doing  in  the  fort  below.  A  lady, 
whose  husband  was  an  officer  in  Fort  Washington, 
told  me  that  White  Eyes,  an  Indian  chief,  said  that  he 
had  often  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  "  big  tree"  on  the 
hill,  and  looked  down  into  Fort  Washington,  where 
he  could  see  every  movement.  This  was  just  before 
Wayne's  victory  in  1795.  That  gave  peace  to  the 
valley,  and  border  wars  wrere  known  no  more.  One 
short  generation  has  passed,  and  what  marvels  are 
seen !  Yonder  little  stream,  then  filled  with  alder 
bushes,  and  musical  with  birds,  is  now  crowded  with 
lofty  factories,  and  thundering  with  the  din  of  ma- 
chinery and  the  roar  of  wheels.  Where  the  old 
fort  was,  rises  lofty  domes,  and  towers,  and  turrets, 
surrounded  with  the  gay  splendor  of  a  modern  city. 
On  yonder  hill  —  then  forest-crowned  —  rises  the 
Observatory  \  and  the  red  Indian, 

"  Whose  soul  proud  science  never  taught  to  stray 
Far  as  the  solar  walk  or  milky  way," 


Cincinnati  Water  Works.  9 

is  replaced  by  the  bold  white,  who  seeks  to  pene- 
trate the  depths  of  the  sky,  and  reveal  the  mysteries 
of  heaven ! 

—  Hark !  the  bell  rings,  and  we  shall  soon  leave 
Cincinnati  behind  us.  The  first  object  which  strikes 
the  eye  on  the  right,  is  the  large  building  of  the 
Cincinnati  Water  Works,  usually  pouring  forth  a 
dark  cloud  of  coal  smoke.  Being  carried  on  by 
steam,  these  works  have  none  of  the  beauty  of  Fair- 
mount  (Philadelphia),  so  justly  celebrated.  They 
are,  nevertheless,  interesting  from  the  great  scale  on 
which  they  are  constructed,  and  the  immense  work 
they  perform.  Cincinnati  is  built  on  a  great  plain, 
with  two  levels,  or  steps  ;  one  of  which  is  55  feet, 
and  the  other  108  feet  above  low  water  mark. 
Hence  to  supply  it  with  water  from  the  river,  this 
water  must  first  be  raised  150  feet  above  its  lowest 
stage,  in  order  to  acquire  head  enough  to  cause  a  flow 
through  all  the  pipes.  Now,  when  we  consider  that 
nearly  two  hundred  thousand  people  are  to  be  sup- 
plied with  water  from  this  source,  it  may  be  imagin- 
ed that  the  power  required  is  immense.  This  work 
is  done  by  iron  forcing  pumps,  moved  by  steam.  The 
barrel  of  the  main  pump  is  18  inches  diameter,  and 
8  feet  stroke  of  piston.  There  are  two  pumps  which 
can  throw  five  millions  of  gallons  each  twelve  hours. 
The  daily  consumption  of  the  city  is  about  2,500,000 
gallons.    By  these  pumps  the  water  is  forced  into  a 


10  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

reservoir,  on  the  hill  above,  and  thence  carried  in 
pipes  to  all  parts  of  the  city.  This  reservoir  is  368 
feet  long,  135  feet  wide,  and  23  feet  deep,  capable 
of  containing  one  million  cubic  gallons  of  water. 
The  containing  walls  are  of  stone,  several  feet  in 
thickness,  double,  with  an  interval  betwreen,  and 
thoroughly  cemented.  From  this  reservoir,  the  water 
is  carried  to  all  parts  of  the  city  in  iron  pipes,  of 
which  the  main  stem  is  20  inches  in  diameter.  The 
pipes  now  make  about  sixty  miles  in  length,  and 
supply  15,000  hydrants. 

Just  beyond  us,  on  the  right,  is  another  long, 
dingy  volcanic  establishment,  pouring  forth  flame 
and  smoke.  This  is  the  Rolling  Mill  of  Shreve, 
Steele  &  Co.,  and  may  be  taken  as  a  sample  of  the 
numerous  iron  factories  in  Cincinnati.  The  part  of 
the  city  where  we  now  are  is  almost  wholly  occupied 
with  mills,  factories,  and  machine  shops  of  various 
kinds ;  and  the  dwellings  are  of  a  cheap  structure, 
occupied  chiefly  by  work  people.  Hence  there  is 
little  beauty  in  it,  and,  like  the  first  view  of  most 
cities  seen  from  public  conveyances,  does  not  strike 
a  stranger  as  very  imposing.  The  same  character- 
istic appearance  prevails  for  five  miles,  in  wThich 
there  is  a  continuous  street  passing  through  towns 
of  different  names,  but  in  fact  only  prolongations  of 
Cincinnati.  Next  to  the  city,  in  succession,  are 
Fulton,  Pendleton,  Spencer,  and  Columbia.  Noth- 


Scenery  of  the  Ohio. 


11 


ing,  however,  indicates  where  either  begin,  or  end. 
They  are  only  suburbs.  As  we  pass  along,  there 
will  be  seen  —  notwithstanding  the  dingy  look  of 
houses  and  shops  —  some  beautiful,  as  well  as  inter- 
esting things.  By  keeping  your  attention  mainly 
fixed  on  the  right,  or  river  side  of  the  cars,  you  will 
see  the  Kentucky  hills  in  some  of  their  most  grace- 
ful attitudes.  The  forest  is  not  half  cleared  off,  but 
near  the  river  there  are  green  fields,  country  seats, 
and  villages ;  forming,  altogether,  quite  a  picturesque 
landscape.  The  hills  have  the  contour  and  height 
which  characterize  nearly  the  whole  thousand  miles 
of  the  Ohio  Valley.  Above  Wheeling  they  are  more 
abrupt,  and  below  the  Cumberland  less  in  height ; 
but  what  you  see  before  you  is  the  general  character 
of  the  hills  which  bound  the  Ohio,  and  which,  with 
its  winding  curves,  have  given  it  the  name  of  the 
u  Beautiful  Paver."  They  are  gentle  in  their  ascent, 
without  rock  or  precipice,  gracefully  curved  on  every 
side,  and  covered  with  rich  and  abundant  foliage. 
All  bear  the  aspect  of  beauty  and  gentleness.  There 
is  nothing  of  the  sublime,  the  abrupt,  or  the  rough. 
Hence  he  who  compares  the  scenery  of  the  Ohio  with 
that  of  the  Hudson,  or  the  St.  Lawrence,  does  injus- 
tice to  both.  They  are  not  alike.  There  are  no 
such  sublime  heights  as  those  of  the  Highlands,  nor 
such  island-covered  breadth  of  waters  as  on  the  St. 
Lawrence ;  but  neither  have  they  anything  like  the 


12  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

graceful  windings,  the  gentle  hills,  the  broad  bottoms, 
the  deep  green  of  foliage,  which  gives  such  loveliness 
to  the  vale  of  the  Ohio.  Just  above  this,  is  a  most 
picturesque  curve,  with  the  winding  town  on  this 
side,  the  green  hills  of  Kentucky  on  the  other,  the 
river  bending  away  around  the  base  of  the  hills  till 
lost  to  the  sight,  and  curling  smoke  rising  in  fleecy 
clouds  to  the  sky.  Beyond  that,  and  about  six  miles 
from  Cincinnati  (almost  all  of  which  is  the  village), 
on  the  Ohio  side,  is  the  Little  Miami,  from  which  our 
Road  takes  its  name. 

I  have  been  descending  the  river  in  one  of  the  fine 
Pittsburgh  packets,  in  the  beginning  of  May.  Deep 
was  the  foliage  of  the  forest,  velvet-like  the  soft 
green  of  the  fields  ;  rapid  and  rolling  the  river,  the 
wind  raising  on  its  surface  the  little  "  white  tops," 
and  bringing  with  it  the  balmy  freshness  of  the 
woods.  Then  the  Ohio  is  indeed  beautiful ;  then  I 
could  sav,  with  truth  — 

"  See  the  rivers  how  they  run, 
Through  woods  and  meads,  in  shade  and  sun, 
Sometimes  swift,  sometimes  slow, 
Wave  succeeding  wave,  they  go 
A  various  journey  to  the  deep." 

The  name  Ohio  was  given  originally  by  the  In- 
dians, and  signified  nearly  the  same,  as  the  French 
termed  it,  "  La  belle  Riviere but  conveying  the 
idea  of  white  water,  or  white  waves. 


Jamestown,  Pendleton,  etc.  13 

On  the  right,  and  near  two  miles  from  the  Depot, 
you  will  see  a  handsome  town  on  the  Kentucky 
shore.  This  is  Jamestown.  It  wras  laid  out  only 
three  or  four  years  since,  and  is  now,  as  you  see,  a 
considerable  village.  In  a  few  years,  the  Kentucky 
shore,  like  the  Ohio,  will  be  lined  with  a  continuous 
town.  The  three  towns  of  Covington,  Newport  and 
Jamestown,  now  contain  about  twenty  thousand  in- 
habitants. Three-fourths  of  this  is  the  growth  of  the 
last  ten  years. 

Pendleton  is  three  miles  from  Cincinnati,  but  is 
only  a  continuance  of  the  town  we  have  passed. 
The  Company  have  here  a  large  stable  for  locomo- 
tives, a  machine  shop,  repair  shop,  work-shops,  &c, 
&c.  The  accompanying  plate  gives  a  view  of  this 
establishment. 

The  cars  were  formerly  compelled  to  move  slow 
from  the  depot  to  this  point;  but  the  Company 
having  purchased  the  ground,  at  immense  expense, 
for  their  own  use,  there  is  now  no  interruption,  and 
we  move  swiftly  on. 

From  Pendleton  we  pass  rapidly  into  the  Valley 
of  the  Miami.  Almost  imperceptibly,  the  cars  turn 
more  than  a  quarter  circle ;  leaving  a  high  hill,  on 
the  left,  the  summit  of  which  is  called  Tusculum,  and 
occupied  as  a  peach  orchard  and  vineyard.  From 
this  hill  is  one  of  the  finest  views  in  America, — 
commanding  the  suburbs  of  Cincinnati,  the  Valley 


14  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

of  the  Little  Miami,  and  the  beautiful  curves  and 
surroundings  of  the  Ohio.  It  is  well  worth  while  for 
a  traveler  in  Ohio,  to  drive,  some  clear  morning  (as 
he  may,  on  a  good  road),  to  take  a  view  of  this 
charming  scene.  If,  when  we  gaze  with  delight  from 
yonder  hill,  the  red  Indian  could  return,  he  might 
well  exclaim,  with  Roderick  Dhu, — 

"  Saxon,  from  yonder  mountain  high, 
I  marked  thee  send  delighted  eye, 
Far  to  the  south  and  east,  where  lay 
Extended,  in  succession  gay, 
Deep  waving  fields  and  pastures  green, 
With  gentle  slopes  and  groves  between. 
These  fertile  plains,  that  spotted  vale, 
Were  once  the  birthright  of  the  Gael ; 
The  stranger  came,  with  iron  hand, 
And  from  our  fathers  reft  the  land. 
Where  dwell  we  now  V  

It  is  in  vain ;  neither  Roderick  nor  the  Indian  can 
regain  their  native  land.  And  why  should  they  ? 
The  earth  must  "be  cultivated ;  and  it  is  not  the  wild 
hunter  nor  the  Highland  robber  can  do  that.  Civil- 
ization must  prevail,  and  sympathy  is  wasted  upon 
those  who,  either  for  want  of  will  or  capacity,  or 
Providential  favor,  are  unable  to  perform  their  part 
in  reducing  the  wilderness  to  cultivation,  and  the 
human  mind  to  discipline.  This  work  of  cultivation 
and  discipline  is  what  we  see  before  us.  This  Rail- 
way is  one  of  the  highest  types  of  Physical  Progress, 


First  Burying  Ground. 


15 


and  the  science  by  which  it  is  accomplished,  one  of 
the  highest  evidences  of  intellectual  discipline. 

Now  look  to  the  right,  as  you  turn,  and  take  a 
view  of  the  broad  fields  of  the  Miami  Valley.  The 
river  runs  on  the  other  side,  in  a  narrow  grove  of 
trees,  which  conceals  it  from  your  sight,  and  joins 
the  Ohio  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  turn  round 
the  hill.  Few  spots  present  a  richer  view  of  the 
fertile  soil  of  Ohio,  in  its  products,  than  this  vale  in 
mid-summer,  when  the  Indian  corn  waves  its  tassels, 
the  meadows  are  verdant,  and  here  and  there  a 
market  garden  has  a  little  patch  blooming  with 
various  plants. 

The  First  Burying  Ground  is  six  miles  from  Cin- 
cinnati, near  where  we  are.  It  is  just  to  the  right, 
a  narrow  inclosure,  with  a  few  old  tombs  yet  visi- 
ble. It  is  the  burial  place  of  the  first  settlers, — for 
Columbia  was  settled  before  Cincinnati.  The  first 
colony  was  composed  of  Mr.  Stites  and  twenty-six 
others,  who  landed  here  in  1788.  The  failure  of  this 
settlement  was  owing  to  the  fact  of  these  bottoms 
being  overflowed  at  high  water,  so  that,  in  the  very 
next  year,  all  the  cabins  but  one  were  under  water. 
Oliver  Spencer,  one  of  the  earliest  inhabitants  of 
Cincinnati,  says  of  Columbia :  "  Fresh  in  my  remem- 
brance is  the  rude  log  house,  the  first  humble  sanc- 
tuary of  the  first  settlers  of  Columbia,  standing 
amidst  the  tall  forest  trees,  on  the  beautiful  knoll 


16  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

where  now  is  a  grave-yard,  and  the  ruins  of  a 
Baptist  meeting  house  of  later  years.  There,  on  the 
holy  Sabbath,  we  were  wont  to  assemble  to  hear  the 
word  of  life  ;  but  our  fathers  met  with  their  muskets 
and  rifles,  prepared  for  action,  and  ready  to  repel 
any  attack  of  the  enemy.  And  while  the  watchman 
on  the  walls  of  Zion  was  uttering  his  faithful  and 
pathetic  warning,  the  sentinels  without,  at  a  few  rods' 
distance,  with  measured  step,  were  now  pacing  their 
walks,  and,  with  strained  eyes,  endeavoring  to  pierce 
through  the  distance,  carefully  scanning  every  object 
that  seemed  to  have  life  or  motion." 

The  first  clergyman  who  preached  in  the  old  log 
church  was  Mr.  Gano,  the  father  of  General  Gano, 
one  of  the  early  settlers.  Daniel  Gano,  for  many 
years  Clerk  of  the  Courts  in  Cincinnati,  was  born 
here  —  one  of  the  oldest  living  men  born  on  the  soil 
of  Ohio. 

In  this  little,  unpretending  grave-yard,  were  bu- 
ried the  early  dead  of  Ohio.  They  went  to  sleep  in 
the  wilderness,  but  their  bones  lie  amidst  hundreds 
of  thousands,  who  now  live  where  the  wilderness 
stood.    Of  them  may  truly  be  said, — 

Beneath  those  rugged  elms,  that  locust's  shade, 
Where  heaves  the  turf  in  many  a  mouldering  heap, 

Each  in  his  narrow  cell  forever  laid, 

The  rude  forefathers  of  the  hamlet  sleep. 

They  were  not  so  very  rude ;  for  most  of  the  settlers 


Duck  Creek  and  Miami  River.  17 

of  Ohio,  were  intelligent  men.  But  these  were  the 
forefathers — and  not  of  a  hamlet  only;  nor  merely  of 
a  common  city;  hut  douhtless  of  some  modern  Baby- 
lon  or  London,  which  here  rising  on  the  banks  of 
the  Ohio,  shall  rival  the  renowned  cities  of  the  earth. 

The  cars  are  flying  on,  and  we  hasten  too.  We 
are  now  passing  over  a  little  stream  called  Duck 
Creek,  and  truly  it  is  a  very  good  duck  creek,  and 
there  is  some  pleasant  shade  along  its  banks.  We 
now  come  on  to  the  Miami  River,  which  you  will 
see  on  one  side  or  the  other,  for  more  than  fifty 
miles.  I  may  as  well  introduce  you  now  to  the 
character  and  history  of  the  Miami,  whose  company 
you  are  to  keep  for  so  long  a  time.  This  river  rises 
in  the  western  edge  of  Madison  county;  thence  tra- 
verses a  part  of  Clarke ;  and  thence  through  Greene, 
Warren,  and  part  of  Clermont  and  Hamilton.  Its 
whole  length  is  about  80  miles,  and  its  descent  in 
that  distance,  about  700  feet;  or,  an  average  of 
about  9  feet  to  a  mile.  This  rapid,  but  generally 
equable  descent,  makes  it  an  admirable  mill  stream 
— and  there  are  in  the  valley  of  the  Miami,  numer- 
ous mills  and  factories,  most  of  whose  products  go  to 
Cincinnati.  There  are  a  million  and  two  hundred 
thousand  bushels  of  wheat,  grown  in  this  valley; 
and  at  least  four  millions  of  bushels  of  corn.  These, 
of  course,  cause  a  large  export  of  flour,  hogs  and 
whisky,  which  furnish  heavy  freights  for  the  Little 
3 


18  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

Miami  Railroad,  and  bring  a  most  profitable  tribute 
to  Cincinnati.  Notwithstanding  the  fall  in  the  river 
is  so  great,  the  current  is  gentle, — and  the  whole 
scenery  is  soft.  Generally,  the  trees  and  shrubs  on 
the  banks,  are  suffered  to  grow — and  the  river  is 
seen  through  the  foliage.  We  pursue  the  valley 
very  closely,  till  we  reach  Xenia,  where  we  leave  it, 
and  bend  over  the  upland  plain  towards  Columbus. 

The  Little  Miami  is  one  of  two  streams  with  the 
same  name — the  other  being  nearly  parallel — at 
about  twenty  miles  distance.  From  these  streams, 
this  district  is  called  the  Miami  Valley,  and  is  cele- 
brated for  its  fertility.  The  whole  section,  watered 
by  the  two  Miamis,  contains  seven  thousand  square 
miles,  and  more  than  half  a  million  of  inhabitants. 
This  gives  seventy  to  the  square  mile,  and  a  density 
of  habitation,  equal  to  New  England,  except  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  Boston. 

The  Miami  Valley  was  first  noticed  by  Washing, 
ton,  who  having  crossed  the  Alleghenies  himself  one 
hundred  years  ago,  seems  to  have  been  well  in- 
formed upon  the  character  of  the  country  and  cli- 
mate, on  the  Ohio.  In  a  letter  to  a  friend,  written 
after  the  revolution,  he  mentions  the  country  on  the 
Miamis — as  described  to  him  by  surveyors,  who  had 
visited  it — as  remarkably  fine  in  soil  and  climate# 
It  is  singular  also,  that  Washington  should  also  be 
the  first  person  to  project  the  formation  of  the  pres- 


The  Miami  Valley. 


19 


ent  State  of  Ohio.  I  never  saw  this  mentioned  in 
any  history  or  discussion  of  the  subject;  but  so  it  is. 
In  a  letter  to  a  gentleman  of  New  York,  he  recom- 
mends the  purchase  of  the  Indian  lands,  rather  than 
a  war  with  them.  For,  he  says,  their  lands  are  all 
you  can  get  by  war — and  you  can  get  them  by 
purchase.  With  that  remarkable  sagacity  for  which 
Washington  was  so  distinguished,  he  says  the  pur- 
chase of  the  lands  and  settlement  by  the  whites,  go 
together.  Hence,  he  recommends  that  a  State  be 
formed  on  the  north  side  of  the  Ohio — whose  west- 
ern boundary  should  run  through  the  mouth  of  the 
Great  Miami,  and  be  continued  to  the  Miami  of  the 
Lakes,  and  thence  to  Lake  Erie.  The  State  would 
be  comprehended  between  this  western  boundary 
and  Pennsylvania,  and  between  Lake  Erie  and  the 
Ohio  River.  This  is  precisely  the  present  State  of 
Ohio,  and  within  twenty  years  from  the  writing  of 
Washington's  letter,  it  was  admitted  into  the  Union. 
I  mention  this  little  episode,  to  illustrate  the  practi- 
cal sense  and  foresight  of  him,  who  in  fact,  not  less 
than  in  name,  was  the  Father  of  his  Country. 

As  we  pass  along,  and  the  variegated  foliage  of 
trees  and  shrubs  and  plants  appears  before  us,  it  may 
interest  us  a  little  to  know  what  they  are.  We  are 
not  botanists  or  florists;  but  the  common  plants  of 
each  district  of  country  should  be  noted  by  every 
observing  traveler.    The  Oak  and  the  Sugar  Maple, 


20  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

we  find  in  almost  every  part  of  our  wide  country. 
But  there  are  numerous  plants,  which  are  peculiar 
to  certain  districts,  and  often  to  very  small  districts. 
This  peculiarity  seems  to  depend  (setting  aside  cli- 
mate) on  some  peculiarity  in  the  soil,  or  structure  of 
the  earth's  surface — what  the  Geologists  call  its  for- 
mation— or,  as  I  should  say,  its  composition.  I  know 
little  about  Geology;  but  one  leading  fact  I  can  tell 
you.  This  Miami  country  is  all  of  it  a  limestone 
country.  The  farmers  say  that  lime  is  one  great 
cause  of  the  fertility  of  the  soil.  At  any  rate,  this 
lime  certainly  encourages  the  growth  of  some  plants, 
and  is  hostile  to  others.  Now,  let  us  see  what  plants 
we  have  before  us.  It  is  spring,  and  we  see  Nature 
and  her  children  to  advantage.  If  not  in  their  most 
valuable,  they  are  certainly  in  their  most  beautiful 
dresses.  I  shall  not  enumerate  the  common  trees, 
but  merely  mention  some  that  are  the  most  character- 
istic of  this  region.  In  early  spring,  may  be  seen  the 
Redbud  (  Cercis),  which  bears  a  beautiful  red  bud,  and 
seems  like  a  jewel  on  the  breast  of  the  forest.  Flow- 
ering about  the  same  time,  is  the  Dogwood  ( Comas), 
which  bears  a  large  white  flower,  shaded  with  a  little 
yellow.  The  Flowering  Locust  (Robinia),  comes  la- 
ter, and  when  in  blossom  is  a  beautiful  tree.  The 
Buckeye  (JEsciilus  maxima),  has  given  name  to  the 
inhabitants  of  Ohio.  The  Poison  Vine,  {Rhus  Radi- 
cans)  is  a  very  common  plant  in  summer,  and  by 


Plain ville  . 


21 


many,  is  supposed  to  be  the  cause  of  milk  sickness, 
which  was  a  very  afflicting  disease  in  some  sections 
of  the  country  below  Columbus;  but  in  the  progress 
of  cultivation,  seems  to  have  nearly  disappeared. 
The  Indian  Arrow  Wood,  (Eiionymas)  is  abundant 
in  mid-summer.  The  Pawpaw  (Anona  Glebra),  is 
very  common  in  the  neighborhood  of  all  our  streams, 
and  with  the  Buckeye  boy,  its  fruit  is  quite  a  favor- 
ite. The  Tulip  Tree  (poplar),  in  its  season,  bears  a 
very  fine  flower.  The  Wild  Cherry,  Crab  Apple, 
Persimmon,  Honey  Locust,  Wild  Plum,  the  Aspen 
and  the  Box,  are  common  trees  of  the  country.  The 
most  numerous  timber  trees,  are  the  Sugar  Maple, 
Beech,  White  Oak,  Walnut,  Ash  and  Hickory. 

The  Miami  country  has  no  Pine ;  nor  is  there  any 
district  of  pine  trees  within  several  hundred  miles. 
Hence  the  transportation  of  pine  lumber  to  Cincin- 
nati— where  it  is  so  much  needed — is  an  exten- 
sive business.  In  the  future,  pine  boards  will  prob- 
ably be  brought  by  railway,  from  the  distant  regions 
of  Michigan,  Wisconsin  and  Minnesota. 

Plainville,  to  the  left,  is  a  station  9  j-  miles  from 
Cincinnati,  and  Qi  from  Pendleton  Engine  Shops. 
There  is  nothing  peculiar  about  it, — though  the  sit* 
uation  is  pleasant  j  and  a  number  of  gentlemen  have 
purchased  the  neighboring  heights  for  rural  resi- 
dences. 


22  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

The  Miami,  here  and  below,  affords  several  mill 
seats,  which  have  been  occupied  for  many  years. 
In  the  first  settlement  of  the  country,  they  used  a 
very  different  kind  of  mill.  A  little  grinding  appa- 
ratus was  fixed  in  a  boat,  and  the  boat  being  an- 
chored, the  wheel  at  the  side  was  turned  by  the 
current.  Others  of  the  pioneers  —  especially  in  Ken- 
tucky— used  horse  mills  and  hand  mills.  Thus,  the 
first  settlement  of  the  West  approached  very  nearly 
the  primitive  state, — when  the  simplest  arts  and 
usages  were  adopted. 

Milford,  on  the  right,  is  14  miles  from  Cincin- 
nati, and  is  a  very  interesting  place.  It  is  in  Cler- 
mont county,  (we  are  now  in  Hamilton)  and  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Miami.  The  village  contains  prob- 
ably 600  inhabitants.  The  spires  of  its  churches 
and  schools,  are  conspicuous*in  the  scene.  The 
great  mill,  and  long  row  of  sheds  to  the  right,  are 
Kugler's  Mills  and  Distillery :  the  sheds  are  for 
hogs,  which  are  fed  from  the  refuse  of  the  distillery. 
Just  in  front,  is  the  bridge  which  connects  the  De- 
pot with  Milford,  and  over  which  passes  a  turnpike 
road  to  the  country  beyond.  The.e  are  three  or 
four  stages  and  omnibuses  waiting  here  to  convey 
passengers  to  the  interior.  The  county  of  Clermont 
is  fertile  and  populous — furnishing  a  large  business 
to  the  Railway  and  Cincinnati. 


Germany  to  Loveland.  23 

Just  beyond  —  as  the  cars  pass — there  is  a  dam 
over  the  Miami,  which  furnishes  a  very  pretty  water- 
fall. This  dam  supplies  the  water  power  to  the 
mills  below. 

The  plate,  page  21,  represents  a  rural  scene  just 
above  Milford — and  is  characteristic  of  the  country. 
The  gentle  swell  of  hills,  the  quiet  repose  of  farm 
houses,  and  the  intermingling  of  native  woods  with 
cultivation,  are  the  principal  features  of  Ohio  scenery 
in  this  part  of  the  State.  The  sublime  and  rugged 
are  not  here ;  but  the  gentle  and  graceful  predomi- 
nate. 

Germany,  about  16  miles  from  Cincinnati,  is  a 
little  villa.  The  scene  in  the  plate  represents  the 
residence  of  M.  Kugler,  Esq.,  proprietor  of  the  large 
Mill  and  Distillery  seen  at  Milford. 

Miami  Bridge  is- about  18  miles  from  Cincinnati. 
Here  the  Railroad  passes  to  the  east  side  of  the 
Miami,  and  continues  on  that  side  for  fifty  miles. 
The  bridge  is  a  substantial  structure, —  constructed 
for  a  double  track — and  above  high  water.  A  view 
is  given  in  the  accompanying  plate. 

Miamiville  is  a  little  village  on  the  left,  grown  up 
by  the  location  of  mills,  and  the  construction  of  the 
Railway. 

Loveland,  23  miles  from  Cincinnati,  is  an  impor- 
tant station.  Here  is  the  intersection  of  the  Hills- 
borough Railroad  with  the  Little  Miami  Railroad. 


24  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

Hillsborough  is  37  miles  by  rail,  from  this  point. 
It  is  the  county  seat  of  Highland  county,  and  a 
pleasant  village.  It  is  situated  on  a  hill,  1074  feet 
above  tide-water,  and  600  feet  above  Cincinnati. 
This  hill,  and  the  surrounding  ridges,  however,  are 
all  of  gentle  curvature,  so  as  to  seem  nothing  but  a 
rolling  country — variegated  with  forest  and  field. 
Thus  situated,  it  is  very  healthy — and  in  summer  a 
cool  and  agreeable  retreat.  The  village  contains 
about  2,000  inhabitants,  with  several  churches.  The 
society  is  cultivated  and  agreeable. 

The  Hillsborough  Railroad,  is,  as  yet,  only  con- 
structed from  Loveland  to  Hillsborough,  37  miles; 
but  is  in  course  of  construction  to  Jackson,  and  may 
be  continued  to  Parkersburg.  Such  was  the  origi- 
nal intention;  but  the  Company  has  recently  been 
united  with  the  Cincinnati  and  Marietta  Company, 
which  goes  to  the  same  point.  At  Parkersburg, 
it  will  be  connected  with  the  Baltimore  railways, 
making  a  continuous  Baltimore  line  to  Cincinnati. 

At  Loveland,  the  Miami  and  Hillsborough  lines 
unite;  the  whole  distance  from  Hillsborough  to  Cin- 
cinnati being  60  miles.  Three  or  four  years  since, 
there  was  but  a  single  house  here ;  but  now,  there  is 
quite  a  village  grown  up.  The  junction  of  the 
Railways  is  seen  in  the  opposite  plate. 

Foster'^  Crossings  is  on  the  left,  and  takes  its 
name  from  the  original  resident  here.    It  is  simply 


Governor  Morrow.  25 

a  house,  a  bridge,  and  a  station.  The  Miami  river 
is  here  crossed  by  the  Montgomery  turnpike,  from 
Cincinnati  to  Wilmington.  The  situation  is  a  very 
pleasant  one.  There  are  hills  on  both  sides— the 
valley  being  here  compressed  within  narrow  limits. 
The  bridge,  a  plain  simple  structure,  conducts  to  the 
road  which  you  see  winding  up  the  hills  on  the  other 
side.    The  accompanying  plate  represents  this  scene. 

Just  before  you  come  to  Foster's  Crossings,  you 
will  notice  on  the  left  hand  of  the  cars,  as  you  come 
from  Cincinnati,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  a 
large  mill  and  plain  frame  house.  This  was  the  res- 
idence of  one  of  the  real  statesmen  of  our  country — 
Governor  Morrow.  He  entered  public  life  in  1802, 
and  remained  in  the  public  service  half  a  century; 
in  which  time,  he  never  once  lost  the  public  confi- 
dence, nor  ever  failed  in  any  part  of  his  duty.  He 
was  a  member  of  the  State  Convention  to  form  the 
first  Constitution;  was  twelve  years  a  member  of  the 
House  of  Representatives  in  Congress;  and  most  of 
the  time,  the  only  Representative  of  Ohio.  He  was 
six  years  in  the  United  States  Senate;  four  years 
Governor;  and  several  years,  towards  the  close  of 
his  life,  President  of  the  Little  Miami  Railroad  Com- 
pany. He  was  one  of  the  earliest  friends  of  this 
enterprize,  and  one  of  the  few,  who  then  saw  the 
great  superiority  of  this  mode  of  locomotion,  and  its 
advantages  to  the  country.    The  Duke  of  Saxe  Wei- 


26  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

mar,  after  visiting  him  in  1825,  described  him  as  a 
faithful  copy  of  an  ancient  Cincinnatus.  "He  was 
engaged  on  our  arrival,  in  cutting  a  wagon  pole ; 
but  immediately  stopped  his  work  on  our  arrival,  to 
give  us  a  hearty  welcome." 

It  would  be  well  for  our  Republic,  if  the  race  of 
Morrows  could  be  continued-  if,  nurtured  like  the 
mighty  oaks  on  the  soil;  warmed  into  vigor,  by  the 
open  sun;  freshened  by  the  pure  air;  made  hardy 
by  labor  and  exposure;  educated  to  the  sentiment 
of  religion,  and  the  love  of  liberty, — they  could 
come  as  Morrow  did — with  the  strength  of  frame  ; 
the  vigor  of  intellect;  the  honest  heart;  and  the 
clear  eyed  spirit,  to  the  great  work  of  Legislation. 
Then  we  should  have  wholesome  laws,  justly  admin- 
istered ;  and  all  selfishness  and  intrigue  and  corrup- 
tion would  disappear,  before  a  fearless  Patriotism. 
Alas !  why  cannot  we  have  another  era  of  Washing- 
tons,  and  Jays,  and  Morrows  ?  But,  we  must  neither 
linger  nor  sigh,  by  the  grave  of  Patriots  !  The  cars 
roll  on.  Time  flies !  It  is  the  Present  only  we  pos- 
sess. 

Deerfield  Station. — A  bridge  is  thrown  over  the 
river  here,  and  the  old  town  of  Deerfield  is  seen  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river ;  but  is  now  only  a  few 
scattered  houses.  We  say  old ;  for  it  was  settled 
about  1797,  by  the  Suttons,  Kelly,  &c.  Now  fifty 
years  in  Ohio,  is  as  much  as  five  centuries  in  some 


Lebanon. 


27 


countries ;  a  town  which  w7as  settled  fifty  years  ago, 
is  looked  upon  as  among  our  antiquities. 

Lebanon  is  four  miles  from  Deerfield,  and  this  is 
the  station  for  the  Lebanon  passengers  to  arrive  at 
and  depart  from.  Lebanon  is  the  county  seat  of 
Warren  county,  the  west  side  of  which  we  are  now 
traversing.  It  is  noted  —  perhaps  as  much  as  any 
other  county  town  in  the  United  States — for  its 
distinguished  men.  Among  these,  we  may  mention 
John  McLean,  a  representative  in  Congress,  Post- 
master General,  and  now  Judge  of  the  Supreme 
Court,  who  commenced  his  career  in  Lebanon,  as 
editor  of  the  "Western  Star.  Thomas  Corwin,  Rep- 
resentative in  Congress,  Senator,  and  Secretary  of 
the  Treasury/  a  distinguished  orator,  lawyer  and 
statesman ;  whose  father  was  one  of  the  first  settlers 
of  Lebanon.  Thomas  It.  Ross,  representative  in 
Congress,  also  an  able  man.  Joshua  Collett,  the 
first  lawyer  in  the  county,  and  afterwards  Judge  of 
the  Supreme  Court  •  and  Judge  Dunlevy.  In  fine, 
Lebanon  and  Warren  county  are  rich  in  what  Rome 
deemed  her  treasures  —  Patriots  and  Statesmen. 
Some,  like  Morrow,  have  gone  to  their  rest ;  but  it 
is  hoped  that  the  matrons  of  such  a  land,  may  yet 
be  able  to  produce  plants  of  so  goodly  a  stock. 

The  census  tells  us,  that  Lebanon  has  2,088  in- 
habitants.   It  is  a  pleasant  retired  country  town. 

Morrow  is  36  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and  28  from 


28  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

Xenia.  Morrow  is  one  of  the  Railroad  creations.  It 
had  no  existence  whatever,  when  the  Railway  com- 
menced business.  Now,  it  is  a  thriving  and  quite  a 
well  built  village,  with,  according  to  the  census,  458 
inhabitants — but  many  more  now;  for  it  has  much 
improved  in  the  last  three  years.  Morrow  is  well 
situated,  at  the  mouth  of  Todd's  Fork  of  the  Little 
Miami,  which,  rising  on  the  plain  of  Clinton  county, 
(east)  becomes  here  a  considerable  stream.  You 
cross  it  near  by,  on  a  handsome  wooden  bridge. 
But  Morrow  will  become  a  much  larger  place;  for  it 
has  another  advantage.  It  is  at  the  intersection 
with  the  Little  Miami  Railroad,  of  the  Wilmington, 
Circle ville,  and  Zanesville  Railroad — one  of  the 
most  important  lines  of  Railway  in  the  country. 

The  Cincinnati,  Wilmington  and  Zanesville  Rail- 
road commences  at  Morrow,  and  passing  Wilmington, 
the  county  seat  of  Clinton  County,  Circleville, 
the  county  seat  of  Pickaway  county,  Washington, 
county  seat  of  Fayette,  and  Lancaster,  the  county 
seat  of  Fairfield,  unites  with  the  Central  Ohio  Rail- 
road at  Zanesville.  It  thus  makes  a  most  important 
central  line  of  Railway;  and  including  36  miles  of 
the  Little  Miami  Railroad,  and  81  miles  of  the  Cen- 
tral, will  unite  Wheeling  and  Cincinnati  with  a  line 
of  about  250  miles  in  length;  the  shortest  route 
which  will  connect  those  cities.    At  Wheeling,  oth- 


Fort  Ancient. 


29 


er  lines  will  continue  the  route  to  Baltimore  and 
Philadelphia. 

The  distance  from  Cincinnati  to  the  principal  points 
on  the  Cincinnati^  Wilmington  and  Zanesville  line, 
will  be  nearly  as  follows : — 

Cincinnati  to  Morrow    -    -    -    36  miles. 
"       to  Wilmington  -    -    57  66 
«       to  Washington  -    -    77  * 
"       to  Circleville     -    -    105  * 
"       to  Lancaster     -    -    126  " 
"       to  Zanesville     -    -    169  " 
These  are  all  important  places,  in  rich  counties, 
and  there  is  hardly  a  route  in  the  Western  States, 
which  promises  so  much  local  support  from  the  pro- 
ductions of  the  soil. 

A  view  of  Morrow,  coming  from  the  East,  is  on 
the  opposite  page.  The  bridge  in  front  is  over  Todd's 
Fork.    The  Miami  is  on  the  right. 

Fort  Ancient  is  41  i  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and  22i 
miles  from  Xenia.  The  view  is  not  of  Fort  Ancient; 
but  of  a  scene  on  the  river,  a  little  above,— as  seen 
from  the  opposite  bank.  Fort  Ancient  is  on  the 
hill  above,  and  of  course,  invisible  from  the  Railway, 
or  the  river.  "And  what  is  Fort  Ancient?"  says  the 
inquisitive  traveler.  Ah  !  That  is  the  question.  It 
is  a  considerably  deeper  one  than  "  Who  built  the 
Pyramid?"  This  Western  world,  especially  the 
valley  of  the  Mississippi,  and  most  of  all,  the  valley 


30  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

of  the  Ohio,  contains  numerous  ancient  monuments, 
some  of  which  are  unquestionably  the  remains  of  for- 
tifications; some  are  evidently  tombs,  and  others 
again  are  more  doubtful ;  whether  they  were  intended 
for  military,  for  religious,  or  for  monumental  purpo- 
ses. There  are  unquestionably  some  of  each  kind. 
Of  those  used  for  the  tombs  of  the  dead,  it  is  ques- 
tionable whether  many  of  them  were  originally  in- 
tended for  that  purpose  j  or,  whether  being  found  in 
existence,  they  were  not  used  in  some  after  genera- 
tion, as  ready  made  coffins  and  tombs  for  the  dead. 
These  tombs  are  called  "  Mounds,"  and  are  simply  a 
raised  cone  of  earth,  with  a  flattened  top,  having  the 
natural  slope  of  the  earth.  They  are  of  various  si- 
zes, from  ten  to  one  hundred  feet  in  height.  On 
some  of  them  the  largest  forest  trees  are  found  ;  and 
the  mounds  themselves  are  found  often  in  the  most 
remote  wilderness,  and  in  the  densest  woods.  In 
these  mounds  are  almost  invariably  found  some  re- 
mains of  human  bones ;  some  pottery  ware  ;  some 
charred  ashes  5  and  occasionally  a  raised  altar  of 
earth,  upon  which  either  the  body  was  placed,  or 
sacrifice  offered.  In  some,  as  at  the  Grave  Creek 
Mound,  near  Wheeling,  there  was  the  appearance  of 
a  regular  vault,  with  wooden  sides,  prepared  with 
something  of  the  design  and  intention  of  the  Egyp- 
tian Pyramids.  Such  are  the  "  mounds "  of  the 
west.    But,  we  come  now  to  the  important  question, 


Fort  Ancient. 


31 


*  were  those  entombed  in  the  mounds,  of  the  same 
people  with  those  who  built  them  ?  And,  were  those 
buried  here,  the  same  race  with  our  North  American 
Indian  ?  And  were  all  of  them  of  the  same  race  ? 
I  confess,  that  I  incline  to  the  last  opinion.  But^ 
there  is  such  a  love  of  romance  in  the  human  mind, 
that  most  persons,  and  especially  antiquarians,  have 
loved  to  dwell  on  the  idea  of  a  mysterious  people, 
who  once  inhabited  this  continent,  and  who,  having 
built  all  these  monuments  and  fortifications,  were  at 
last  utterly  obliterated,  by  a  barbarous  race,  so 
that  even  their  monuments  have  not  preserved  their 
name  from  oblivion !  The  strongest  argument 
against  this  romantic  theory  is  found  in  this  last 
fact; — that  these  monuments  contain  nothing  which 
furnish  the  slightest  evidence  of  civilization,  by  which 
some  knowledge  of  them  might  have  been  preserved. 
They  were  not  a  civilized  people.  That  is  certain. 
In  fact,  the  builders  of  the  mounds,  and  certainly 
those  who  were  buried  in  them,  were  not  superior  at 
all  to  the  better  class  of  our  North  American  Indians ; 
such,  for  example,  as  the  Mandans  were.  There  is 
nothing  in  making  a  mound,  nothing  contained  in 
them,  which  a  tribe  of  Delawares  or  Pawnees  might 
not  have  done.  Where  then  is  the  mystery  ?  As  to 
the  mounds,  there  is  none,  however  much  romance 
may  make  of  it.  By  the  way,  here  I  may  mention 
a  tradition  of  the  North  Western  Indians,  in  regard 


23  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

to  the  manner  in  which  the  mounds  were  formed.  It 
may,  or  may  not  be  true ;  hut  contains  a  very  pretty 
idea.  A  chief  in  Wisconsin,  many  years  since,  was 
asked  if  there  was  no  tradition  of  the  building,  or 
purpose  of  the  mounds  ?  He  said  that  there  was  an 
old  tradition,  that  long  time  ago,  when  a  chief  died, 
his  friends  and  relatives  laid  him  on  a  little  altar, 
where  sacrifices  were  made,  and  raised  over  him  a 
hillock  of  earth,  and  that  every  time  a  friend,  or  a 
member  of  that  tribe  came  by,  he  cast  upon  it  a  hand- 
ful of  earth.  If  he  was  a  great  chief,  with  a  large 
tribe,  and  popular,  his  mound  soon  grew  to  be  a  large 
one ;  but  if  he  was  a  small  chief,  his  mound  was 
small.  Thus  the  mound  marked,  without  an  inscrip- 
tion, the  greatness  of  him  who  lay  beneath. 

Now,  this  may  have  been  the  manner  in  which 
some  mounds  were  formed;  but  they,  like  our 
own  tombs,  are  obviously  of  different  kinds.  Some 
of  them  have  been  re-opened,  and  strangers  buried  in 
them ;  and  others  were  evidently  intended  for  reli- 
gious uses ;  and  again,  others  were  used,  as  we  may 
infer  from  their  position,  as  military  watch-towers. 

But  wre  must  not  stop  you  in  the  cars  to  read  the 
history  of  a  tomb.  What,  you  may  well  ask,  has 
this  to  do  with  Fort  Ancient  ?  Much  :  for  there  are 
mounds  within  Fort  Ancient;  and  there  are  also 
other  things,  much  more  curious  than  mounds.  Fort 
Ancient  is,  in  fact,  an  old,  and  unknown  fortification ; 


Fort  Ancient . 


one  of  the  most  singular  of  all  these  ancient  remains 
which  have  puzzled  so  many.  I  am  sorry  you  can- 
not leave  the  cars,  and  walk  through  it.  You  would 
see  a  work,  most  manifestly  intended  for  defence, 
evidently  constructed  by  human  hands ;  but  of  whose 
author  not  the  slightest  trace,  or  memorial,  or  history 
remains,  save  only  this  solitary  and  deserted  ruin. 
When  you  meet  a  ruined  fortification  on  the  Rhine, 
or  the  Danube,  you  know  something  of  its  authors. 
Its  stones  and  walls  tell  you  something.  You  can 
trace  it  very  distinctly  to  German  Barons  or  Roman 
Praetors  |  but  here  you  can  trace  nothing.  These 
fallen  walls  have  no  characteristics  of  any  thing,  or 
of  any  known  being.  They  were  found  in  a  wilder- 
ness, whose  wilder  inhabitants  knew  not  whence  they 
came.  There  were  no  inscriptions.  The  dead  had 
no  epitaphs.  The  profound  solitude  of  the  woods 
was  interrupted  by  no  sound  from  its  lonely  tenants. 
There  was,  when  first  seen,  around  these  ancient  for- 
tifications, a  dreary  and  painful  solitude ;  a  sense  of 
presence,  and  yet  a  death-like  repose,  I  recollect 
well  a  feeling  of  awe,  when  I  first  passed  through 
Fort  Ancient  The  mounds  seemed  as  if  they  would 
speak,  and  just  then  a  huge  black  snake  drew  him- 
self across  the  road,  as  if  he  were  the  genius  of  the 
place.  I  dare  say  no  such  impression  is  produced 
now;  for  all  around  is  cultivation,  and  the  air  of  life 
and  activity  pervades  the  neighborhood. 
4 


34  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

Of  Fort  Ancient,  the  description  in  brief  is  this : 
It  stands  on  a  plain,  about  230  feet  above  the  river, 
and  between  two  rivulets  running  into  the  Miami. 
Each  of  these  streams  has  high  and  steep  banks  ;  so 
that,  in  fact,  this  position  is  defended  naturally,  on 
three  sides.  It  is  only  open  on  the  fourth,  or  east 
side.  The  plain  is  nearly  level,  and  on  it  is  erected 
an  irregular  fortification,  generally  following  the  bank 
of  the  river  and  the  creeks,  in  the  shape  of  a  high 
parapet,  on  the  water  side  about  eight  or  ten  feet 
high,  but  on  the  plain  nearly  double  that.  To  this 
parapet  there  are  gateways,  mounds,  and  some  exte- 
rior defences.  Nothing  is  more  obvious,  than  that  the 
work  was  intended  for  defence ;  and  it  is  equally  cer- 
tain, that  the  position  was  selected  with  skill  and 
sagacity.  If  a  modern  general  was  to  select  some 
spot  on  the  Miami  river  to  defend,  he  could  not  have 
chosen  a  better  one. 

But  I  have  detained  you  here  long  enough.  We 
must  hasten  on.  The  railway  runs  at  the  base  of 
the  hills,  and  therefore  shuts  from  sight  all  these  an- 
cient memorials.  To  a  curious  and  contemplative 
mind,  these  remains  are  very  interesting,  and  weeks 
might  be  occupied  in  examining  these  and  similar 
monuments  on  the  Miami,  and  Scioto.  The  view  ac- 
companying this  is  not  of  Fort  Ancient,  but  of  a 
scene  on  the  Little  Miami  river,  above  the  fort ;  in 
my  opinion  quite  beautiful. 


C  0  R  AV  I  N  . 


35 


Corwin,  50  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and  14  from 
Xenia,  is  a  station  opposite  the  pretty  town  of 
Waynesville,  Warren  county,  Ohio.  On  a  clear  day 
you  will  see  across  the  Miami,  (over  which  a  bridge 
is  thrown,)  a  village  of  white  houses,  lying  amidst 
the  foliage  of  a  green  slope.  It  is  to  my  eye  one  of 
the  most  rural  and  beautiful  towns,  as  seen  from  the 
station,  any  where  to  be  found.  It  has  no  ambition 
to  be  a  busy  manufacturing  or  mercantile  place ;  and 
therefore  you  see  no  dark  columns  of  smoke,  no  tall 
chimneys,  no  din  of  noise.  All  is  quiet,  serene,  ru- 
ral and  retired.  By  the  way,  there  is  one  branch  of 
business  carried  on  here,  the  traveler  may  as  well 
know.  There  is  here  a  maker  of  Maple-sugar  Can- 
dy, who  unquestionably  makes  the  best  in  the  nation. 
If  you  see  him  in  the  cars,  with  his  little  boxes, 
five  chances  to  one  you  will  say  "  no."  For  you  will 
think  of  the  half-flour,  musty  stuff,  you  generally  find 
under  the  name  of  candy.  All  I  have  to  say,  is,  that 
this  is  real  maple  candy,  the  best  in  the  country. 

Waynesville  is  not  pretentious.  It  is  simply- a  rural 
village,  originally  settled  by  Quakers,  and  like  them 
quiet,  and  unobtrusive.  By  the  census,  it  has  744 
inhabitants.  There  are  two  Friends'  Meeting  houses, 
and  a  Methodist  Church. 

Spring  Valley,  57  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and  7 
miles  from  Xenia,  is  a  pleasant  village ;  small,  but 
neat.    There  is  a  woolen  factory,  a  tavern,  several 


36 


The  Illustrated  Guide. 


shops,  and  in  the  neighborhood,  a  good  many  mills, 
and  factories.  The  turnpike  from  Cincinnati  to 
Xenia  also  passes  here.  The  land  is  rich,  the  Mi- 
ami river  near  by  ;  so  that  on  the  whole,  this  posi- 
tion is  a  very  good  one,  for  those  who  wish  to  live 
in  the  country,  and  yet  be  in  a  village.  It  is  called 
Spring  Valley,  from  the  very  peculiar  nature  of  the 
hills,  and  soil  around.  The  hills  which  surround  the 
place  are  full  of  springs,  which  gush  out,  almost  as 
large  as  rivulets.  For  two  or  three  miles,  they  are 
almost  innumerable.  You  will  see  them  on  the 
slopes,  as  we  pass  up  the  little  valley  of  Glady.  This 
is  the  name  of  the  little  stream,  we  now  follow  to 
Xenia.  Glady  is  only  seven  miles  in  length,  rising 
in  some  large  springs,  near  Xenia.  In  that  seven 
miles,  however,  it  turns  the  wheels  of  some  seven  or 
eight  mills  and  factories.  It  is  the  busiest  little  wa- 
ter course  you  ever  saw. 

When  you  get  half  way  through  this  valley,  about 
three  miles  from  Xenia,  in  the  woods  on  the  left,  is 
the  spot  where  Daniel  Boone  made  his  escape  from 
the  Indians.  He  had  been  taken  prisoner  by  the 
Indians,  and  carried  to  Old  Chillicothe,  now  called 
u  Old  Town,"  which  is  about  six  miles  beyond  this 
place,  on  the  Miami.  At  Old  Town  he  found  a  large 
body  of  Indians,  painted  and  armed,  ready  for  an 
attack  on  Booneborough,  his  own  place.  There  he 
determined  to  fly,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  18th  of 


The  Shawnees. 


37 


June,  1778,  being  left  on  Glady,  near  this  spot,  with 
only  an  old  Indian  and  two  wTomen,  he  took  himself 
off,  and  made  a  straight  line  for  Booneborough.  It 
was  well  he  did ;  for  he  found  the  fort  in  bad  repair, 
and  went  to  work  at  once,  to  put  it  in  order. 

This  region  around  u  Old  Chillicothe,"  and  from 
thence  on,  and  to  the  Scioto,  was  the  residence  of 
the  Shawnese,  once  one  of  the  greatest  and  best  of 
the  Indian  tribes.  The  Shawnees  were  originally 
residents  of  the  South ;  but,  (says  Col.  John  John- 
ston,) came  to  Ohio  long  anterior  to  Bracldock's 
campaign  in  1754.  They  occupied  the  country  con- 
tiguous to  the  Wyandots,  on  the  Scioto,  Mad  River, 
and  Great  Miami,  and  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Maumee.  Thev  were  devoted  friends  and  allies  of 
the  Wyandots,  in  all  their  wars  with  the  whites.  These 
two  tribes  were  the  last  to  leave  Ohio,  and  there  is 
not  now  an  Indian,  who  owns  an  acre  of  land  within 
the  State.  *  Alas  !  the  poor  Indian  !  "  says  some 
one.  Yes,  my  friend,  and  alas  !  the  poor  white  !  For, 
the  Indian  was  only  a  savage,  and  he  made  war  upon 
the  whites,  as  the  whites  did  upon  wolves  and  bears ; 
and  many  were  the  poor  women  and  children  who 
were  tomahawked  and  scalped,  in  their  ferocious  rage. 
You  will  say,  perhaps,  the  Indians  oivned  the  land; 
are  you  quite  sure  of  that  ?  Investigate.  These 
Shawnees  were  only  wanderers.  They  came  on  to 
the  land  once  occupied  by  the  Wyandots.    Did  the 


38  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

Wyandots  own  it  ?  No.  They  came  where  the  Del- 
awares  and  Iroquois  once  owned.  In  fine,  can  any 
wandering,  savage  tribe  oivn  a  country,  which  they 
do  not  even  occupy  ?  but  in  which  they  are  vaga- 
bonds and  wanderers?  They  are  unquestionably 
entitled  to  the  rights  of  life,  liberty  and  labor ;  but, 
oivnership,  according  to  the  civilized  idea  of  prop- 
erty, they  had  none. 

Xenia  is  64  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and  54  miles 
from  Columbus.  It  is  the  county  seat  of  Greene 
county,  and  one  of  the  best  inland  towns  of  the  west. 
But  before  we  discuss  the  town,  let  us  discuss  anoth- 
er, and  quite  a  practical  question.  At  least  you  will 
think  it  so.  Are  you  hungry  ?  Is  this  supper  time  ? 
If  so,  let  me  tell  you,  of  all  the  railway  depots  in 
the  United  States,  this  is  one  of  the  best  for  a  meal. 
It  is  clean,  roomy,  and  the  meals  are  well  got  by 
friend  Stark,  and  charged  for  no  more,  than  they 
ought  to  be.  In  all  the  New  York  and  Pennsylva- 
nia railways,  there  is  not  a  place  better  than  this  to 
get  a  nice  supper.  So  if  you  are  hungry  and  will  be 
satisfied  with  good  things,  and  don't  demand  ortolans 
and  turbot  out  of  season,  now  is  your  chance.  Sit 
down  and  be  comforted. 

Now,  if  you  have  done  supper,  we  will  take  a  look 
at  Xenia.  Xenia,  where  did  they  get  that  name  ?  I 
cannot  tell.  I  have  heard  something  of  its  origin, 
but  really  cannot  trace  it  to  any  known  thing.  "Well, 


Xenia. 


39 


Xenia  contains  4,248  inhabitants,  just  treble  what  it 
did  in  1840,  and  twelve  hundred  more  than  it  did  in 
1850.  This  shows  a  rapid  growth,  and  it  is  due  al- 
most entirely  to  the  railways  which  here  intersect. 
The  Little  Miami,  on  which  we  now  are,  passes  on 
north  to  join  the  Mad  River  road,  at  Springfield ; 
while  on  the  east  it  is  connected  with  Columbus,  by 
the  Xenia  and  Columbus,  on  which  we  shall  now 
proceed.  Xenia  township  is  the  largest  township  in 
Ohio,  and  contains  about  8,500  inhabitants.  It  was 
settled  chiefly  by  the  Seceders,as  they  were  called,  the 
Covenanters  of  the  Associate  Reformed  Church,  all 
of  whom  are  branches  of  the  same  sect,  the  old 
Scotch  Covenanters.  In  the  town  of  Xenia,  there 
are  now  twelve  churches,  of  which  one  is  Seceder,  one 
Covenanter,  tivo  Associate  Reformed,  two  Methodist, 
one  Presbyterian,  one  Baptist,  one  German  Lutheran, 
one  Roman  Catholic,  and  two  African.  This  is  more 
than  a  church  to  each  400  people.  So  you  see  this 
is  a  church  going  people.  In  the  county  there  are 
65  churches,  or  one  to  each  300  persons,  a  very  large 
proportion.  In  general,  Greene  county  is  settled  by 
a  sober,  industrious,  orderly,  and  intelligent  people. 
You  would  readily  see  this  from  the  very  look  of  the 
farms,  if  you  could  see  them.  Generally,  however, 
our  railways  do  not  pass  through  the  most  cultiva- 
ted sections. 

But,  to  return  to  Xenia:  we  shall  not  see  it  nearer 


40 


The  Illustrated  Guide. 


than  at  the  depot.  But,  even  here,  the  town  bears  a 
pleasant  aspect,  bright  and  thriving.  The  little 
stream  that  separates  us  from  town  is  Shawnee,  which 
runs  as  clear  and  bright,  as  if  it  were  leaping  over 
the  rocks  and  sands  of  New  England.  Its  name  is 
the  only  thing  in  this  broad  land,  except  those  strange 
old  mounds,  which  reminds  us  of  the  ancient  inhabit- 
ants. Shawnee!  Dost  thou  still  remember  the 
Shawnee,  the  wild  warrior  of  the  forest,  who  once 
roamed  upon  thy  banks,  and  hunted  in  thy  woods, — 
and  frolicked  in  the  loud  joy  of  a  freeman  ? 

Again  we  start,  and  soon  we  shall  leave  thee, 
fair  Xenia,  behind,  and  bid  farewell  to  all  thy  charms, 
thy  spires,  thy  woods  and  waters !  Of  none  can  it 
be  more  truly  said,  than  of  thee, — » 

<<  Loveliest  village  of  the  plain, 

Where  health  and  plenty  cheer  the  lab'ring  swain, 
Where  smiling  Spring  its  earliest  visit  pays, 
And  parting  Summer's  ling' ring  bloom  delays. 

How  often  have  I  paused  on  every  charm, 

The  shelter' d  cot,  the  cultivated  farm, 

The  never  failing  brook,  the  busy  mill, 

The  decent  church  that  tops  the  neighb'ring  hill." 

We  pass  near, — but  shall  not  see, — Tawawa 
Springs,  a  fashionable  summer  resort  for  the  citizens  of 
Cincinnati.  This  is  a  new  place,  being  established 
only  within  four  or  five  years.  Originally,  it  was  a 
beautiful  piece  of  wood,  or  rolling  land,  in  the  midst 
of  which  was  a  deep  ravine.    In  that  ravine  arose 


Tawawa  Springs  . 


41 


three  springs;  one  was  pure  natural  water ;  one  was 
lime-water,  and  one  was  iron  and  sulphur.  The  beau- 
ty of  the  situation,  with  the  presence  of  the  springs, 
gave  to  Mr.  E.  F.  Drake,  who  first  started  the  enter- 
prize,  the  idea  of  making  it  a  watering  place.  This 
has  been  accomplished,  and  Tawawa  is  now  both  a 
beautiful,  and  a  fashionable  place.  A  large,  elegant, 
and  most  comfortable  hotel  has  been  erected;  in 
front  of  which  is  a  lawn,  shaded  by  forest  trees.  On 
each  side  are  rows  of  cottages,  most  of  them  erected 
by  gentlemen  for  their  own  families.  The  roads 
around  Xenia  are  very  good  and  pleasant  for  riding; 
the  country  remarkably  healthy ;  the  place  accessi- 
ble, at  the  Xenia  Railway  station,  from  every  part 
of  the  United  States.  In  thirty  hours  you  can  be  in 
New  York,  or  Philadelphia,  from  Tawawa  Springs ! 
In  two  hours  you  can  be  in  Cincinnati.  I  have  been 
at  most  of  the  watering  places  in  this  country,  and 
I  assure  you,  that  for  comfort  with  seclusion,  and 
convenience  with  pleasure,  there  is  not  another  place 
in  the  United  States,  more  comfortable,  convenient 
and  pleasant  than  this.  A  fine  view  of  Xenia,  and 
the  depot  accompanies  this. 

Cedarville  Station,  72  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and 
46  from  Columbus.  There  occurs  here  rather  a  re- 
markable natural  phenomenon  for  this  country, — the 
presence  of  Cedar  trees, — and  hence  the  name  of 
the  village, — Cedarville.    The  village  is  seen  from 


42  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

the  left,  through  a  clump  of  trees.  It  is  situated  at 
the  Falls  of  Massie's  Creek,  a  stream  quite  celebra- 
ted in  Indian  wars,  and  Indian  adventures.  The 
Falls  of  Massie's  Creek  was  quite  a  romantic  spot, 
the  waters  plunging  over  rock  precipices,  and  over- 
hung by  darkly  green  cedars.  But,  alas!  the  ce- 
dars are  cut  away  ;  the  red  Indian  has  disappeared; 
there  is  no  more  danger ;  and  quiet  people  plant  corn 
and  tend  sheep !  Wild  wars  and  fearful  romance 
have  disappeared  forever !  Not  even  the  spirit-rap- 
pers can  recall  them. 

Selma  Station,  6  miles  further,  is  a  new  place, 
created  by  the  Railroad. 

South  Charleston  Station,  83  miles  from  Cincin- 
nati and  35  miles  from  Columbus,  is  another  small 
country  village,  in  a  very  pleasant  country.  After 
passing  Cedarville,  we  enter  upon  a  country  which 
in  its  scenery,  soil,  and  qualities,  is  quite  peculiar.  It 
comprehends  about  one  fourth  of  Ohio.  Commenc- 
ing in  the  upper  part  of  Highland  county,  including 
a  small  part  of  Clark,  (where  we  are  now,)  and  all 
of  Fayette,  Madison,  Union,  Hardin,  Wyandot, 
Crawford,  and  parts  of  Marion,  Huron,  Logan,  Cham- 
paign and  several  other  counties ;  it  extends  from 
the  hills  of  the  Ohio,  to  near  the  shores  of  the  lake. 
It  may  be  called,  generally,  a  champaign  country, 
nearly  level,  but  with  gentle  swells  like  the  waves 
of  the  sea,  interspersed  with  natural  prairies,  and 


South  Charleston. 


43 


clumps  of  wood.  The  small  quantity  of  timber,  and 
the  apparent  absence  of  fertile  "  bottoms/'  (the  fa- 
vorites of  all  good  farmers,)  induced  the  pioneers  to 
give  these  lands  the  name  u  barrens ;  "  but,  nothing 
was  more  mistaken  than  to  attach  to  them  the  word 
barren,  They  are  among  the  most  fertile,  as  well  as 
the  most  beautiful  lands  in  America.  Being  pecu- 
liarly adapted  to  grass,  they  have  heretofore  been 
chiefly  employed  in  grazing  sheep  and  cattle.  In 
the  township  where  we  now  are,  great  numbers  of 
sheep  are  raised.  The  county  of  Clark,  in  which  we 
are,  has  50,000  sheep  and  12,000  cattle,  most  of 
wilich  are  pastured  at  this  end  of  the  county. 

Charleston  is  a  small,  but  pleasant  village;  one  of 
those  country  settlements  of  which  there  are  num- 
bers in  every  section. 

The  Railway  from  Xenia  to  Columbus,  we  should 
have  said,  is  almost  entirely  straight,  making  but 
three  curves,  we  believe,  in  the  whole  distance  :  one 
on  leaving  Xenia,  one  at  London,  where  the  general 
direction  of  the  road  is  changed,  and  one  between 
there  and  Columbus.  From  Xenia  to  Columbus 
bridge,  an  air  line  is  52  miles ;  while  the  railway  is 
only  54  miles,  showing  how  near  an  air  line  this 
road  is. 

London,  94  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and  24  miles 
from  Columbus,  is  the  county  seat  of  Madison  coun- 
ty.   On  the  next  page  is  a  view  of  the  depot,  and 


44  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

station  house.  Before  we  reach  here,  we  cross  a  lit- 
tle stream,  which  deserves  to  be  mentioned,  because 
it  is  one  of  the  sources  of  Deer  Creek,  a  tributary  of 
the  Scioto,  which  it  joins  about  seven  miles  above 
Chillicothe.  The  valley  of  Deer  Creek  is  very  fer- 
tile, and  its  bottoms  produce  an  immense  quantity 
of  corn. 

London  is  a  small  town  of,  perhaps,  500  inhabit- 
ants. The  country  here  has  the  same  general  char- 
teristics  we  have  described.  Madison  county,  of 
which  it  is  the  seat  of  justice,  is  not  very  populous ; 
nor  can  it  be,  till  the  lands  are  subdivided.  Being  a 
grazing  country,  the  farms  are  of  great  size ;  many 
of  them  being  a  thousand  acres,  and  upwards.  Cai> 
tle  are  here  the  leading  product.  Of  these  upwards 
of  20,000  are  owned  in  the  county;  and  in  the  gra- 
zing season,  many  more  are  pastured.  The  young  cat- 
tle are  bought  by  the  graziers  in  Illinois,  Missouri,  and 
the  far  west ;  and  they  are  pastured  and  fed  on  the  stock 
farms  of  the  Scioto,  and  its  tributaries.  These  broad 
champaign  lands  afford  the  pasture,  and  the  corn  crops 
of  the  Scioto,  Paint,  Darby  and  Deer  Creek,  the  corn 
for  fattening.  Feeding  cattle  in  Ohio  is  a  lucrative 
branch  of  farming. 

Springfield  and  London  Railroad,  19  miles  to 
Springfield.  At  this  point,  the  Springfield  Railroad 
intersects  the  Xenia  and  Columbus  R.  R.  This  link 
unites  several  important  lines.    It  makes  a  connec- 


Bridge  over  Big  Darby  Creek.  45 

tion  between  Springfield  and  Columbus  43  miles, 
and  at  Springfield  it  connects  with  the  Mad  River 
and  Lake  Erie  R.  R.,  which  northwardly  proceeds  to 
Sandusky,  and  southwardly  to  Dayton.  At  Dayton 
the  connection  is  made  via  the  Greenville  and  Indian- 
apolis line,  with  Central  Indiana,  via  the  Western  R. 
R.,  and  the  Central  Indiana  R.  R.,  with  Richmond 
and  Indianapolis ;  and  via  the  Cincinnati,  Hamilton, 
and  Dayton,  with  Cincinnati.  This  short  link  is, 
therefore,  both  convenient  and  important. 

Bridge  over  Big  Darby  Creek,  near  West  Jeffer- 
son. A  plate  of  the  Bridge  and  Creek  may  be  seen 
on  the  opposite  page.  It  is  unfortunate  for  travel- 
ers that  they  see  very  little  of  the  scenery  repre- 
sented in  the  plates,  while  they  are  in  the  cars.  One 
must  be  below,  in  the  valleys  of  streams,  on  the  sides 
of  hills,  and  under  the  bridges,  to  see  the  real  scene- 
ry of  the  country,  and  enjoy  it.  The  general  aspect 
of  the  country,  however  green  and  rich,  at  certain 
seasons,  is  tame  and  monotonous  ;  yet  along  the  bank 
of  Darby  may  be  found  some  beautiful  scenery. 

Darby  Creek,  we  must  beg  leave  to  bring  more 
distinctly  to  your  notice,  and  revive,  0 !  Traveler, 
some  of  your  historical  recollections.  Historical  re- 
collections, in  this  new  country  ?  you  will  say.  Yes ! 
and  old  recollections  too  of  by  gone  times,  and  mem- 
orable men.  Let  us  walk  a  little  together,  by  the 
bank  of  Darby.    About  thirty  miles  below  this, 


46 


The  Illustrated  Guide. 


Darby  creek  flows  into  the  Scioto,  nearly  opposite 
the  town  of  Circleville.  Below  the  mouth  of  Darby, 
on  the  Scioto,  the  country  is  called  the  Darby  Plains, 
broad,  fertile,  beautiful  lands.  On  the  Darby  plains, 
four  miles  below  Darby,  where  now  is  the  village  of 
West  Fall,  stood  one  of  the  Shawnee  towns  called 
f  Old  Chillicothe."  And  there  stood  the  cabin  of 
Logan.  Have  I  not  awakened  your  curiosity  ?  In 
America,  who  has  not  heard  of  Logan  ?  With  noth- 
ing but  his  character  to  sustain  him,  he  has  made  an 
immortal  name,  amidst  the  renowned  of  the  earth. 
He  was  one  of  nature's  noblemen,  and  has  taken  a 
place,  which  no  factitious  rank  could  have  conferred. 
"  But  tvho"  some  stranger  may  say,  66  was  Logan  ?" 
Let  us  pause  awhile  to  hear  the  story  of  Logan.  He 
was  a  Mingo  Chief,  and  is  thus  described  by  John 
Heckewelder,  the  Moravian  Missionary. 

*  Logan  was  the  second  son  of  Shikellamus,  a  cele- 
brated chief  of  the  Cayuga  nation.  This  chief  had  a 
strong  attachment  to  the  English  Government,  and 
having  the  confidence  of  the  Six  Nations,  was  very 
useful  in  settling  disputes,  &c.  His  residence  was 
at  Shamokin,  Avhere  he  took  great  delight  in  acts  of 
hospitality  towards  the  whites.  He  was  visited  in 
1742,  at  his  residence,  by  Count  Zinzendorf,  to  whom 
his  name  and  fame  were  made  known. 

In  1772, says  Heckewelder,  "Logan  was  introduced 
to  me  by  an  Indian  friend,  as  a  son  of  the  late  chief 


Logan. 


47 


Shikellamus.  In  the  course  of  conversation,  I 
thought  him  a  man  of  superior  talents  to  the  Indi- 
ans generally.  The  subject  turning  on  vice  and 
immorality,  he  confessed  his  too  great  share  of  it, 
especially  a  fondness  for  liquor.  He  censured  the 
whites  for  imposing  liquor  on  the  Indians,  but  ad- 
mired their  ingenuity;  spoke  of  gentlemen,  but  ob- 
served, the  Indians  unfortunately  had  too  few  of  them 
for  neighbors ;  spoke  of  his  friendship  for  the  whites, 
and  intention  to  settle  on  the  Ohio,  below  Big  Bea- 
ver; and  invited  me  to  visit  him.  I  was  then  living 
at  the  Moravian  Towns.  In  April,  1773,  while  on 
my  passage  down  the  Ohio,  from  the  Muskingum,  I 
called  at  Logan's  settlement,  where  I  received  every 
civility  I  could  expect  from  such  of  the  family  as 
were  at  home" 

At  this  time,  Logan  was  living  at  or  near  Yellow 
Creek,  Ohio.  In  the  following  year,  (spring  of 
1774)  according  to  the  testimony  of  Ebenezer  Zane, 
a  Captain  Michael  Cresap  attacked  and  killed  two 
Indians.  The  next  day,  Cresap  and  Greathouse, 
with  a  party  of  men,  fell  upon  and  killed  another 
party  of  Indians,  at  Grave  Creek,  below  Wheeling. 
Within  a  few  days  after,  Greathouse's  party  killed 
other  Indians  at  Yellow  Creek.  In  these  several 
unprovoked  murders,  the  brother,  sister,  and  all  the 
family  of  Logan  were  killed ;  so  that  this  friend  of 
the  whites  was  left  alone  in  the  world,  with  all 


48  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

kindred  cut  off,  by  those  who  should  have  been  his 
protectors. 

With  such  provocations  and  such  barbarous  cruelty 
on  the  part  of  his  dearest  friends,  was  it  strange  the 
red  warrior  felt  the  spirit  of  vengeance  ?  The  last 
affair  had  taken  place  on  the  24th  of  May,  1774 ; 
and  on  the  12th  of  July,  Logan,  with  a  few  warriors, 
had  reached  the  settlement  of  the  Monongahela; 
where  his  first  attack  was  on  three  men  pulling  flax 
in  a  field.  One  was  shot,  and  the  two  others  taken. 
These  two — one  of  whom  was  a  Mr.  Robinson — 
were  taken  to  the  Indian  Town,  where,  according  to 
the  usages  of  the  Indians,  they  would  have  to  run 
the  gauntlet,  and  then  be  burned,  if  not  adopted  into 
some  Indian  family.  But  Logan  delighted  not  in 
torture.  In  the  most  friendly  spirit  he  told  Robin- 
son how  to  escape  the  severities  of  the  gauntlet 
At  last,  however,  he  was  tied  to  a  stake,  and  would 
have  been  burned;  but  Logan  insisted  on  his  being 
adopted,  cut  the  cords  with  his  own  hands,  put  a 
belt  of  wampum  upon  him,  and  pointed  out  an  old 
woman,  who  was  henceforth  to  be  his  aunt.  He  was 
adopted  instead  of  a  warrior,  killed  at  Yellow  Creek- 

These  events  gave  rise  to  a  most  terrible  Indian 
war,  which  was  finally  terminated,  by  a  decisive 
battle  at  Point  Pleasant,  mouth  of  the  Kenhawa. 
There,  the  Shawanese,  Mingoes  and  Delawares,  were 
defeated  by  the  Virginia  militia.    The  Indians  sued 


Logan's  Speech. 


49 


for  peace.  But  Logan  disdained  to  be  among  the 
suppliants.  But — lest  the  sincerity  of  the  treaty 
should  be  doubted — when  so  distinguished  a  chief 
was  absent,  he  sent  to  Lord  Dunmore  his  celebrated 
speech.  The  genuineness  of  this  speech  has  been  fully 
established  by  the  most  abundant  testimony.  It 
was  delivered  (according  to  Judge  Gibson  of  Pitts- 
bur  gh);  in  the  fall  of  1774,  when  Dunmore's  army 
had  reached  within  fifteen  miles  of  "  Old  Chillicothe," 
(now  Westfall)  where  Logan  then  lived.  A  flag  came 
out  to  request  an  interview  with  some  one,  sent  in 
by  Dunmore.  Gibson,  who  could  speak  three  lan- 
guages, went  in,  and  to  him  Logan  delivered  his 
speech  for  Lord  Dunmore.  It  was  delivered,  after 
shedding  many  tears — a  proof  of  the  depth  of  feel- 
ing with  which  it  was  attended.  It  was  so  remarka- 
ble, as  to  strike  everybody;  and  was  immediately 
published  in  the  American  Colonies,  and  throughout 
Europe.  It  became  the  theme  of  wonder,  and  the 
exercise  of  schools  in  eloquence ;  and  has  ever  since 
been  perpetuated  as  an  example  of  oratory  for  youth. 
The  correct  edition  of  his  speech  is  the  following : 

"I  appeal  to  any  white  man  to  say,  if  ever  he  en- 
tered Logan's  cabin  hungry,  and  he  gave  him  not 
meat;  if  ever  he  came  cold  and  naked,  and  he 
clothed  him  not.  During  the  course  of  the  last  long 
and  bloody  war,  Logan  remained  idle  in  his  cabin, 
an  advocate  for  peace.  Such  was  my  love  for  the 
5 


50  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

whites,  that  my  countrymen  pointed,  as  they  passed, 
and  said,  '  Logan  is  the  friend  of  white  men/  I  had 
even  thought  to  have  lived  with  you,  but  for  the  in- 
juries of  one  man.  Colonel  Cresap,  the  last  spring, 
in  cold  blood,  and  unprovoked,  murdered  all  the  rela- 
tions of  Logan,  not  even  sparing  my  women  and 
children.  There  runs  not  a  drop  of  my  blood  in  the 
veins  of  any  living  creature.  This  called  on  me  for 
revenge.  I  have  sought  it.  I  have  killed  many. 
I  have  glutted  my  vengeance.  For  my  country,  I 
rejoice  in  the  beams  of  peace.  But  do  not  harbor  a 
thought  that  mine  is  the  joy  of  fear.  Logan  never 
felt  fear.  He  will  not  turn  on  his  heel  to  save  his 
life.    Who  is  there  to  mourn  for  Logan?    Not  one." 

The  authenticity  of  this  speech  is  proved,  as  I 
have  said,  by  the  testimony  of  Gibson  to  the  de- 
livery of  it,  and  by  abundance  of  other  testimony  to 
all  the  material  facts. 

The  close  of  Logan's  life  does  not  seem  to  be 
known  with  certainty.  The  Indians  reported,  says 
Heckewelder,  that  after  the  peace,  he  fell  into  a 
deep  melancholy.  "Life,"  he  said,  "had  become  a 
torment  to  him,  and  he  knew  no  more  what  pleasure 
was ;  and  he  thought  he  had  better  never  have  ex- 
isted." The  single  expression,  "Who  is  there  to 
mourn  for  Logan?"  carries  with  it  the  very  depth  of 
melancholy.  Nor  is  it  strange.  The  heart  of  the 
poor  Indian  was  as  tender  as  other  hearts — and  by 


Jonathan  Alder. 


51 


fell  murder,  wife,  children,  and  friends  were  taken  from 
him  forever.    Who  was  there  to  mourn  for  Logan? 

The  Indians  said  he  became  delirious,  and  went  to 
Detroit,  drank  freely,  and  was  murdered  between 
that  place  and  Miami.  This  story,  however,  is 
doubtful.  In  the  "American  Pioneer,"  it  is  said  that 
he  died  of  disease,  in  "Old  Chillicothe," — on  the 
very  spot  where  he  delivered  his  renowned  speech. 

And  now  we  must  return  up  the  Darby.  The 
cars  are  flying  fast.  These  broad  plains  will  soon 
be  gone,  and  Logan  and  his  memory  be  effaced  from 
our  minds.  Very  near  where  we  are  now,  lived 
Jonathan  Alder,  who  was  brought  up  entirely  among 
the  Indians.  He  was  captured  in  1782,  near  Green- 
briar,  Va.,  and  was  saved  only  by  the  circumstance 
of  his  having  black  hair,  which  induced  his  Indian 
captor  to  think  he  would  make  a  very  good  Indian. 
He  was  adopted  into  the  family  of  an  Indian  chief 
of  the  Mingo  tribe,  w7ho  had  lost  a  son  in  battle. 

Jonathan  lived  with  Mary — a  daughter  of  the 
chief — who  had  become  the  wife  of  Col.  Lewis, 
another  chief.  He  says  they  treated  him  with  the 
utmost  kindness,  and  exclaims,  "  Oh !  never  have  I, 
nor  can  I  express  the  affection  I  had  for  these  two 
persons."  Of  their  mode  of  living,  he  says,  u  I  would 
have  lived  very  happy,  if  I  could  have  had  my 
health;  but  for  three  or  four  years,  I  was  subject  to 
very  severe  attacks  of  fever  and  ague.    Their  diet 


52 


The  Illustrated  Guide. 


went  very  hard  with  me  for  a  long  time.  Their 
chief  living  was  meat  and  hominy ;  but  we  rarely 
had  bread,  and  very  little  salt,  which  was  extremely 
scarce  and  dear,  as  well  as  milk  and  butter.  Honey 
and  sugar  were  plenty,  and  used  a  great  deal  in 
their  cooking,  as  well  as  on  their  food. 

Alder  was  with  the  Indians  at  the  time  of  Craw- 
ford's defeat,  and  at  the  Mackachack  towns,  when 
destroyed  by  Logan ;  and  remained  with  the  Indians 
till  after  Wayne's  victory  in  1795.  When  he  grew 
up,  he  took  a  squaw  for  wife,  and  lived  on  Darby 
creek.  When  the  settlers  began  to  come  there,  he 
learned  to  speak  English,  and  soon  began  to  farm 
like  the  whites.  He  kept  hogs,  cows,  and  horses, 
sold  milk  and  butter  to  the  Indians,  and  accumula- 
ted property.  Finally,  Alder  found,  from  some  of 
the  settlers,  where  his  mother  and  brothers  lived  j 
returned  to  them,  and  like  Joseph,  made  himself 
known.  At  last,  he  separated  from  his  Indian  wife, 
and  henceforth  lived  like  the  whites. 

In  Alder,  we  see  a  strong  illustration  of  the  differ- 
ences in  races,  as  to  habits  and  modes  of  life.  The 
moment  Alder — who  was  nothing  but  an  Indian  in 
his  education — saw  the  white  settlers  farming  and 
cultivating  the  soil,  he  did  the  same,  and  accumula- 
ted property  by  industry.  The  Indians  might  have 
done  the  same.  Why  did  they  not  ?  This  is  the 
precise  difference.    If  the  Indians  had  even  been 


Fr  anklinton. 


53 


able  or  willing  to  cultivate  the  soil,  they  would  have 
been  civilized.  But  they  did  not.  We  cannot  ac- 
count for  these  things,  unless  there  is  some  secret 
instinct,  which,  by  impelling  them  to  different  fami- 
lies and  tribes,  impels  them  also  to  different  desti- 
nies. 

Franklinton,  118  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and  op- 
posite Columbus.  This  now  old  village,  was  laid 
out  many  years  before  Columbus;  but,  as  you  see, 
is  on  low  ground,  and  by  no  means  so  well  adapted 
for  a  town.  It  was  laid  out  in  August,  1797,  by 
Lucas  Sullivant,  and  was  the  first  settlement  in  the 
county.  For  several  years,  there  was  no  mill  or 
post  office  nearer  than  Chillicothe,  about  45  miles. 
In  the  first  years  of  its  settlement,  it  was  like  all 
other  new  places — especially  on  very  rich  soil — 
extremely  sickly,  with  the  fever  and  ague.  But 
with  the  cultivation  of  the  land,  and  the  better  mode 
of  living,  the  disease  gradually  disappeared;  and 
the  site  of  Columbus  and  the  adjacent  country  is 
now  quite  healthy. 

Columbus,  the  seat  of  Government  for  the  State 
of  Ohio,  is  118  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and  135  miles 
from  Cleveland.  We  approach  it  by  a  bridge  over 
the  Scioto,  writh  the  Penitentiary  in  view,  on  the 
left. 

The  Scioto  River  is  one  of  the  principal  streams 
in  the  State,  and  interlocks  near  the  borders  of  Lo- 


54 


The  Illustrated  Guide. 


gan  county,  with  the  head  waters  of  the  Little  Mi- 
ami, up  which  we  ascended  by  the  Little  Miami  Rail- 
road 60  miles.  Since  then,  we  have  passed  over  the 
elevated  plain,  which  divides  the  valleys  of  these 
streams.  We  came  on  to  the  waters  of  the  Scioto  40 
miles  west  of  Columbus,  and  have  since  been  in  what 
geologists  call  the  valley  of  the  Scioto.  The  dis- 
trict of  land  between  the  Scioto  and  Little  Miami,  is 
called  the  f  Virginia  Military  District."  This  wras  a 
body  of  land  granted  by  Congress  to  the  officers  and 
soldiers  of  the  Virginia  line,  in.  the  revolutionary 
war.  These  lands  were  "  located,"  as  it  is  called, 
under  warrants  issued  by  the  State  of  Virginia.  As 
each  man  employed  his  own  surveyor,  and  selected 
his  own  land,  the  result  was  a  great  deal  of  confusion ; 
but  fortunately  for  the  State  of  Ohio,  much  less 
than  in  the  State  of  Kentucky.  The  lands  of 
the  Military  District  are  probably  among  the  best 
in  the  United  States.  As  the  warrants  were  bought 
by  "  locators,"  surveyors,  etc.,  from  the  original  own- 
ers, this  section  of  country  became  the  scene  of 
great  speculation. 

The  Scioto  valley,  so  called,  comprehends  in  all, 
7,000  square  miles,  about  the  size  of  the  State  of 
Massachusetts,  and  350,000  inhabitants.  The  ma- 
jority of  the  settlers  were  from  Virginia  and  Ken- 
tucky, and  have  given  to  this  region  many  of  their 
peculiar  chaiacteristics. 


Columbus. 


55 


Columbus  is  on  the  east  "bank  of  the  Scioto,  in  the 
midst  of  the  broad  and  beautiful  plain,  which  consti- 
tutes the  central  and  western  portion  of  Ohio.  The 
land  in  Franklin  county  was  once  the  property  of 
the  Wyandot  Indians.  They  had  a  large  town 
here,  and  cultivated  extensive  fields  of  corn,  where 
Franklinton  now  is.  It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  all  the 
considerable  towns,  which  have  grown  up  in  the  val- 
ley of  the  Ohio,  are  on  the  site  of  old  Indian  towns. 
It  proves  the  sagacity  of  the  Indians  to  be  quite 
equal  to  that  of  the  whites  in  this  particular.  It 
shows,  also,  that  there  are  natural  advantages  in  some 
places,  for  towns  and  cities,  which  cannot  be  overlook- 
ed. Just  before  Columbus  was  settled  by  the  whites, 
it  was  the  scene  of  a  singular  Indian  tragedy,  whose 
cause  was  not  unfamiliar  to  the  history  of  the  whites, 
and  shows  that  frail  human  nature  is  everywhere  the 
same,  however  the  habits  and  aptitudes  of  races  may 
differ.  The  cause  of  the  tragedy  was  a  charge  of 
witchcraft ! 

The  unfortunate  subject  of  this  charge  was  a  "Wy- 
andot chief,  called  Leatherlips ;  and  he  was  executed 
for  the  supposed  crime  of  witchcraft,  which  seems  to 
be  outlawed  in  all  countries.  In  June,  1810,  Leath- 
erlips was  encamped  on  the  Scioto,  twelve  miles 
above  the  present  Columbus,  where  he  was  visited 
by  six  Wyandots,  who,  General  Harrison  said,  were 
direct  from  Tippecanoe,  by  the  orders  of  Tecumthe, 


56  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

and  his  brother,  the  Prophet.  Sentence  of  death  had 
been  pronounced  upon  Leatherlips,  when  some  whites, 
who  were  present,  made  an  effort  to  save  his  life ; 
but  in  vain.  A  council  was  held.  The  warriors 
spoke  with  warmth  and  bitterness ;  and  he  replied 
calmly  and  dispassionately.  He  was  a  second  time 
condemned  and  soon  executed.  When  sentence  was 
again  pronounced,  the  prisoner  walked  slowly  to  his 
camp ;  ate  his  dinner  of  jerked  venison ;  arrayed 
himself  in  his  best  apparel,  and  painted  his  face.  His 
dress  was  very  rich,  his  hair  gray,  and  his  whole  ap- 
pearance graceful  and  commanding.  When  the  hour 
of  execution  arrived,  he  shook  hands  in  silence  with 
the  spectators.  Then  turning  from  his  wigwam, 
with  a  voice  of  surpassing  strength  and  melody,  he 
commenced  the  chant  of  the  death  song.  He  was 
followed  close  by  the  Wyandot  warriors,  all  timing 
with  their  slow  and  measured  march,  the  music  of  his 
wild  and  melancholy  dirge.  The  white  men,  too, 
joined,  as  silent  followers,  in  that  strange  procession. 
At  the  distance  of  eighty  yards  from  the  camp,  they 
came  to  a  shallow  grave,  which  had  already  been 
prepared.  Here  the  old  man  knelt  down,  and  in  a 
solemn  and  elevated  voice,  addressed  his  prayer  to 
the  Great  Spirit !  Then  the  captain  of  the  Indians 
knelt  down,  and  prayed  in  a  similar  manner, — the 
prayers  of  both  being  in  the  Wyandot  tongue. 
There  was  not  a  weapon  of  any  kind  to  be  seen  in 


Columbus. 


57 


the  party,  when  suddenly  one  of  the  warriors  drew 
from  beneath  the  skirts  of  his  capote,  a  keen,  bright 
tomahawk,  walked  rapidly  up  behind  the  chief,  bran- 
dished it  on  high,  and  struck  it  into  the  head  of  his 
victim.  Another  blow,  and  Leatherlips  was  dead. 
The  cold  drops  of  sweat  which  were  gathered  on  his 
neck  and  face,  were  pointed  to,  by  his  exultant  exe- 
cutioners, as  proofs  of  his  guilt ! 

Such  was  an  Indian  execution,  and  all  the  circum- 
stances about  it  prove  how  completely  ignorance  and 
superstition  control  the  hearts  of  men,  whether 
white,  red,  or  black. 

The  seat  of  government,  in  Ohio,  was  not  estab- 
lished till  1816.  Prior  to  that,  the  sessions  of  the 
Legislature  had  been  held  at  Chillicothe,  and  at 
Zanesville.  In  1812,  the  proposals  of  Lyne  Starling 
and  others  were  accepted  for  the  establishment  of  a 
permanent  seat  of  government.  The  town  was  laid 
out  in  that  year.  On  the  18th  of  June, — the  same 
day  on  which  war  was  declared  with  Great  Britain, 
— the  first  public  sale  of  lots  was  held.  The  first 
building  erected  for  public  worship,  was  built  in  1814, 
for  the  Presbyterians.  The  first  State  House  was 
built  in  1814.  The  first  session  of  the  legislature 
held  in  Columbus,  was  in  1816.  The  first  county 
Court  House  was  built  in  1819.  The  city  charter 
was  granted  in  1834.  Thus,  though  Columbus  was 
laid  out  only  forty  years  since  in  the  woods,  and  had 


58 


The  Illustrated  Guide. 


no  mail  for  many  years,  yet  it  lias  grown  up  to  be 
a  large  town.    There  are  not  more  than  thirty  cities 
and  towns  in  the  United  States,  larger  than  Colum- 
bus.   The  progress  of  its  growth  has  been  thus  : 
In  1820,  population  -    -    -    -  1,400 
In  1830       "  ....  2,437 

In  1840       "  ....  6,048 

In  1850       "  ....  17,100 

In  1854       "  ....  22,000 

The  causes  of  its  growth  are  various.  The  erec- 
tion of  many  great  public  buildings ;  and  the  ex- 
penditure of  large  sums  of  public  money,  is  one 
cause.  Manufactories,  of  which  there  are  sever  a 
large  establishments,  is  another.  The  great  fertility 
of  the  surrounding  country,  adds  also  largely  to  its 
resources.  The  number  of  persons  in  public  insti- 
tutions and  in  public  employment  here,  cannot  be 
less  than  1,000.  At  the  present  time,  Columbus  is 
likely  to  be  the  centre  of  numerous  railways  cross- 
ing the  State  in  various  directions. 

The  public  buildings  are  so  numerous  and  remark- 
able, as  to  be  worthy  of  special  note.  Indeed,  if  the 
traveler  can  afford  time  to  spend  a  day  here,  and  ex- 
amine the  Lunatic  Asylum,  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asy- 
lum, the  Blind  Asylum,  and  the  Penitentiary,  he  will 
be  amply  repaid  for  his  trouble. 

The  Capitol  of  Ohio,  now  near  completion,  is  one 
of  the  largest,  and  most  beautiful  public  buildings 


Capitol  of  Ohio. 


59 


in  the  United  States.  It  is  built  of  Ohio  marble,  (as 
it  is  called,)  which  is  a  light  gray  limestone,  at  once 
durable  and  handsome.  It  is  the  largest  building  of 
the  kind  in  the  country,  except  the  Capitol  of  the 
United  States,  at  Washington.  The  following  are 
the  dimensions  of  some  of  the  State  Capitols,  as  re- 
ported by  the  State  House  Commissioners  : 


The  Capitol  of  Ohio,  at  Columbus,  is  304  by  184 

feet,  and  covers  an  area  of   55,936  feet. 

The  Capitol  of  the  U.  S.,  at  Washington,  covers  61,693  " 
The  Capitol  of  Tennessee,  at  Nashville,  is  240 

by  135  feet,  and  covers   32,400  " 

The  Capitol  at  Raleigh,  N.  C.    14,940  " 

The  Capitol  at  Harrisburg,  Penn.   14,400  " 

The  Capitol  of  Indiana,  at  Indianapolis    -    -    -  14,400  " 

The  Capitol  of  Vermont,  at  Montpelier     -    -    -  12,200  " 


It  will  be  seen  that  the  Capitol  of  Ohio  is  but 
slightly  less  in  area  than  that  of  the  United  States  ; 
while  it  is  nearly  double  the  Capitol  of  Tennessee, 
and  quadruple  the  largest  in  other  states. 

The  Ohio  Lunatic  Asylum  is  a  noble  structure, 
occupying  a  commanding  position,  in  an  open  space 
of  ground  about  a  mile  east  of  the  Capitol.  There 
are  thirty  acres  of  ground  attached  to  it,  with  a  lawn 
in  front,  ornamented  with  shrubbery. 

The  building  is  in  the  form  of  a  hollow  square, 
the  main  front  being  376  feet  in  length.  The  centre 
is  296  feet  by  46  in  depth.  The  wings  40  feet 
each,  project  beyond  the  centre  11  feet,  and  extend 


60  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

back  218  feet,  thus  forming  a  large  court  in  the  rear. 
The  superficial  fronts,  (three  sides,)  of  the  building 
thus  extend  812  feet.  It  contains  440  rooms,  and 
covers  an  acre  of  ground.  The  style  of  the  struc- 
ture is  in  good  taste,  and  it  presents  a  very  imposing 
appearance. 

This  institution  commenced  operations  in  Novem- 
ber, 1838.  From  that  time  to  1851,  there  have  been 
admitted  1,841  patients.  Of  these  897  have  been 
cured. 

Of  the  number  of  recent  cases  admitted  to  the  Asy- 
lum, 75  per  cent,  recover,  so  that  the  chances  of 
recovery  from  lunacy,  when  the  patient  is  cared  for 
in  time,  are  very  nearly  as  great  as  in  any  other  dis- 
order. Many  are  carried  to  the  Asylum  who 
have  been  hopelessly  maniacs,  or  idiotic,  for  years, 
and  therefore  ought  not  to  be  included  in  the  number 
from  whom  cures  are  expected. 

The  Ohio  Penitentiary,  is  also  a  very  interesting 
institution.  The  building  is  an  imposing  edifice,  on 
the  east  bank  of  the  Scioto,  just  above  the  railroad 
bridge,  and  in  sight  of  the  cars.  It  is  built  of  Ohio 
marble,  and  contains  350  cells  in  each  wing.  The 
cells  are  constructed  of  solid  stone,  with  iron  doors. 

The  Penitentiary  generally  contains  about  500 
prisoners,  who  are  employed  in  useful  manufactures, 
of  various  kinds.    Many  of  them  have  been  enga- 


Ohio  Benevolent  Institutions.  61 

ged  in  the  erection  of  the  Capitol,  in  which  they 
have  done  good  service. 

The  labor  of  the  prisoners  yields  about  $20,000 
per  annum  to  the  State ;  so  that  the  cost  of  their 
support  is  not  much.  The  discipline  of  the  institu- 
tion is  very  severe,  and  great  effort  is  made  to  give 
the  prisoners  religious  instruction.  In  some  instan- 
ces, no  doubt,  the  instruction  and  discipline  of  the 
Penitentiary  has  proved  useful,  and  there  are  those, 
who  have  come  out  reformed,  and  passed  decent  and 
respectable  lives.  But,  on  the  whole,  it  is  questiona- 
ble whether  penitentiary  punishment  is  really  bene- 
ficial. A  large  number  of  the  prisoners  learn  more 
evil  than  good ;  and  many  come  out  more  inveterate 
felons,  than  they  went  in ;  returning  to  the  Peniten- 
tiary for  new  offences,  two,  three,  and  four  times. 
Why  can  we  not  colonize  our  convicts  in  some  Island 
of  the  Pacific  ?  We  should  then  remove  the  offend- 
ing cause  of  crime,  and  put  away  so  much  evil  from 
the  community. 

The  Ohio  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  is 
also  a  well  conducted  and  interesting  institution. 
The  building  is  built  of  brick,  plain,  with  wings.  In 
1852  it  contained  129  pupils.  The  instruction  in 
the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  has  been  very  suc- 
cessful. 

The  Ohio  Institution  for  the  Education  of  the 
Blind,  was  established  in  1837,  and  like  the  other 


62  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

public  institutions,  is  supported  by  the  State.  In 
1852  the  number  of  pupils  was  68,  and  the  instruc- 
tion successful. 

In  addition  to  these  public  institutions,  Columbus 
has  a  great  many  buildings  of  its  own,  and  is,  in 
fact,  a  very  handsome  town.  The  County  Court 
House  is  a  handsome  building.  The  Neil  House  is 
one  of  the  largest  hotels  in  the  United  States. 
There  are  many  and  fine  churches,  with  several 
private  residences,  of  the  most  imposing  appearance. 
Notwithstanding  Columbus  seemed  to  have  no  spe- 
cial advantages,  as  a  town,  it  has  nevertheless  grown 
with  great  rapidity;  and  is  now  the  third  city  of 
Ohio. 

Columbus  is  also  one  of  the  railroad  centres  of  the 
State.  The  Little  Miami  and  Xenia  R.  R.,  on  which 
we  have  been  moving,  here  unites  with  the  Cleve- 
land, Columbus  and  Cincinnati  R.  R.,  making  a 
continuous  railroad  line  from  Cincinnati  to  Cleveland, 
252  miles  in  length. 

The  Columbus,  Piqua,  and  Indiana  Railroad  is 
between  Columbus  and  Union,  where  it  connects 
with  the  Indianapolis  and  Bellefontaine  railroad; 
and  thence  to  the  Wabash  and  the  Mississippi.  It 
is  102  miles  in  length,  and  passes  through  Urbana 
and  Piqua. 

The  Central  Railroad  lies  between  Columbus 
and  Wheeling,  140  miles.    It  passes  through  New- 


Columbus. 


63 


ark  and  Zanesville  ;  and  is  finished  to  Cambridge,  84 
miles.    The  residue  will  be  finished  this  year. 

At  Wheeling,  the  Central  road  will  connect  with 
the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  railroad,  going  to  Baltimore, 
and  with  the  Hempfield  railroad,  and  thence  to 
Philadelphia. 

The  Columbus  and  Chillicothe  line  is  chartered 
and  will  be  constructed. 

From  Columbus  the  traveler  may  proceed  to  all 
the  most  considerable  towns  in  Ohio,  and  to  all  the 
cities  of  the  Northern  and  Western  States,  by  railway, 
reaching  any  of  them  in  a  very  short  time. 

As  a  State  Capital,  Columbus  will  compare  well 
with  any  of  those  in  the  older  States.  Of  all  the 
State  Capitals,  Columbus  is  the  most  populous,  ex- 
cept Boston,  Albany  and  Richmond ;  and  in  regard 
to  public  institutions  and  buildings,  is  thought  to 
equal  even  them.  When  we  reflect  that  it  is  only 
forty  years  since  the  town  was  laid  out  in  a  wilder- 
ness, this  must  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  stri- 
king evidences  of  the  rapid  growth  and  prosperity  of 
the  Western  people. 

From  Columbus,  our  route  pursues  the  valley  of 
the  Olentangy,  an  Eastern  branch  of  the  Scioto. 
The  railway  company  here  is  under  a  different  char- 
ter— that  of  the  Cleveland,  Columbus  and  Cincinnati 
R.  R.  Co., — but  the  whole  line  is  worked  together, 


64 


The  Illustrated  Guide. 


and  as  to  the  public  convenience  and  management, 
is,  in  reality,  but  one  road. 

From  Columbus  north,  we  still  see  the  same  fertile 
lands ;  but  less  cultivated  than  between  Columbus 
and  Cincinnati.  The  railway  having  been  construct- 
ed but  a  few  years,  and  departing,  (on  account  of 
grades  and  distance,)  widely  from  the  public  high- 
ways, does  not  pass  through  the  old  settled  and  cul- 
tivated lands.  The  traveler,  therefore,  will  scarcely 
comprehend,  without  resorting  to  a  book  of  statistics, 
how  it  is,  that  this  portion  of  Ohio  produces  such  an 
enormous  quantity  of  grain,  wool,  and  other  valuable 
products.  Without  alarming  you,  my  fellow  travel- 
er, with  the  dry  bones  of  statistics,  I  may  as  well 
give  you  an  idea  of  the  production  within  an  average 
of  fifteen  miles  on  each  side  of  this  road.  Between 
Columbus  and  Cleveland,  this  road  passes  through 
some  part  of  the  following  counties,  viz :  Franklin, 
Delaware,  Morrow,  Richland,  Crawford,  Huron,  Lo- 
rain, and  Cuyahoga.  The  general  aggregate  of  ag- 
ricultural productions  in  these  counties,  as  ascertained 
by  the  last  returns,  was  as  follows :  two  million  eight 
hundred  thousand  bushels  of  wheat ;  jive  million  eight 
hundred  bushels  of  corn;  six  million  seven  hundred 
thousand  pounds  of  butter ;  one  million  three  hundred 
and  sixty  thousand  pounds  of  cheese ;  and  one  million 
four  hundred  thousand  pounds  of  wool  This  is  a  very 
great  production  for  a  surface  of  land  not  exceeding 


• 


WORTHINGTON. 


65 


three  thousand  square  miles.  More  than  half  of  this 
production  is  surplus^  which  is  carried  to  New  Eng- 
land, and  New  York,  chiefly  for  consumption.  These 
facts  show,  that  while  there  is  no  great  display  of 
farms  on  the  immediate  line  of  the  road,  there  is 
within  its  reach  a  very  fine  agricultural  section. 

Worthington,  9  miles  from  Columbus,  is  the  first 
considerable  town  we  come  to,  north  of  Columbus. 
It  is  in  sight,  and  not  more  than  a  half  a  mile  from 
the  road.  Here  the  venerable  Bishop  Chase  com- 
menced his  labors  in  the  west,  in  the  service  of  re- 
ligion and  education;  and  from  the  station  we  may 
see  the  buildings  where  Kenyon  College  had  its 
birth.  Worthington  derives  its  name  from  Thomas 
Worthington,  one  of  the  earliest  settlers,  and  most 
distinguished  men  in  the  State.  He  emigrated  to 
Ohio  about  1793,  from  Berkeley  county,  Virginia. 
Being  extremely  averse  to  slavery,  he  emancipated 
his  slaves ;  but  most  of  them  desired  to  go  with  him ; 
so  that  he  brought  about  sixty  of  those  emancipated 
slaves  to  this  State.  Their  descendants  make  up  a 
large  part  of  the  colored  people  at  Chillicothe,  where 
he  resided.  He  was  an  active  and  most  energetic 
man  of  business ;  but  was  very  soon  carried  into 
public  life,  which  henceforth  occupied  most  of  his 
time.  He  was  a  member  from  Ross  county  of  the 
Convention  which  framed  the  first  Constitution.  He 
was  one  of  the  two  first  United  States  Senators  from 
6 


66  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

this  State.  He  was  ten  years  in  the  Senate,  where 
he  was  of  great  service,  in  the  business  of  the  nation, 
and  much  confided  in  by  the  administrations  of  Jef- 
ferson and  Madison.  Subsequently,  he  was  four 
years  Governor  of  the  State ;  and  in  his  latter  days 
Canal  Commissioner.  In  all  his  public  career,  he 
rendered  most  useful  service,  and  commanded  uni- 
versal respect. 

Delaware,  24  miles  from  Columbus,  is  the  county 
seat  of  Delaware  county.  It  is  about  two  miles  from 
the  main  line,  but  has  a  side  curve  about  five  miles 
in  length.  Delaware  was  named  by  the  Delaware 
Indians,  one  of  the  principal  original  tribes  in  the 
United  States.  The  name  of  this  once  powerful 
tribe,  says  Col.  John  Johnston,  is  Wa  be  nugh  ka,  the 
people  from  the  East,  or  sunrising.  The  tradition 
among  themselves  is,  that  at  some  remote  period, 
they  emigrated  from  the  West,  crossed  the  Missis- 
sippi, ascended  the  Ohio,  and  fought  their  way,  till 
they  reached  the  Delaware  river,  (named  from  Lord 
Delaware,)  near  where  Philadelphia  now  stands,  in 
which  region  of  country  they  became  fixed.  They 
ever  regarded  the  Quakers  with  respect  and  affec- 
tion. They  finally  removed  to  the  West,  and  some 
of  them  are  now  in  the  Indian  Territory,  west  of  the 
Mississippi. 

Delaware  was  laid  out  by  Moses  Byxbe  and  the 
late  Judge  Henry  Baldwin  of  Pittsburgh.    The  first 


A  Bear  Fight. 


67 


brick  house  was  erected  in  1808,  and  there  being  no 
mason,  Byxbe's  mfe  laid  all  the  brick  on  the  inside 
walls.  In  the  early  settlement  of  the  West,  women 
had  many  employments  which  are  now  unknown  to 
them — and  there  was  little  occasion  for  Women 
Rights'  Conventions,  when  woman  shared  in  all  the 
labors,  dangers,  and  glory  of  the  pioneers. 

It  was  not  till  1823,  that  the  first  church  was 
built ;  but  now,  Delaware  is  a  large  and  flourishing 
village.  By  the  census,  Delaware  town  has  2,074 
inhabitants.  It  has  several  churches,  a  large  hotel, 
a  bank,  two  newspapers,  and  all  the  other  circum- 
stantials which  belong  to  a  pleasant,  growing  town. 
Among  the  notables  of  the  town,  are  Delaware 
Springs,  and  the  Wesleyan  University.  The  springs 
are  said  to  be  salutary,  being  strongly  impregnated 
with  sulphur  and  other  mineral  substances.  The 
Wesleyan  University  was  founded  by  the  Metho- 
dists, and  numbers  the  present  year  594  students. 

A  Bear  Fight  is  very  often  talked  about,  but 
very  seldom  experienced.  One  occurred  in  this 
neighborhood,  which  is  more  remarkable  than  any  I 
ever  heard  of.  There  was  a  Captain  John  Minter, 
among  the  early  settlers,  who  was  originally  from 
Kentucky,  and  became  famous  by  his  great  bear 
fight.  Seeing  a  very  large  bear,  he  fired  upon  him, 
and  the  bear  fell.  Supposing  him  dead, — after  re- 
loading— he  touched  bruin's  nose  with  his  gun,  when 


68  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

lie  instantly  sprung  up.  He  fired  upon  him  again, 
only  slightly  wounding  him.  As  the  hear  sprang 
forward,  he  threw  his  tomahawk  at  him,  and  finally 
broke  his  rifle  on  his  head.  All  would  not  do :  on 
came  the  enraged  bear.  Too  late  to  escape,  he  drew 
his  big  knife,  and  made  a  plunge;  but  the  beast 
struck  it  from  his  hand,  and  at  once  folded  Minter 
in  his  embrace.  Fortunately,  he  was  tall,  strong- 
muscled  and  athletic.  The  bear  calculated  upon 
hugging  his  adversary  to  death  very  soon ;  but  Min- 
ter contrived  to  twist  his  body  in  such  ways,  that 
Mr.  Bruin  could  not  crush  him.  The  woods  were 
open,  without  underbrush,  and  they  rolled  over  in 
every  direction.  Several  times,  he  thought  he  was 
gone ;  but  being  strong,  he  choked  the  bear,  when 
the  latter  would  be  obliged  to  let  go  a  moment  to 
knock  off  his  hands.  They  struggled  in  this  way 
for  hours,  when  luckily,  they  rolled  back  near  where 
the  knife  lay,  when,  after  many  efforts,  he  brought 
bruin  near  enough  to  grasp  the  knife.  Then  you 
may  depend,  he  was  not  long  in  using  it.  He  stabbed 
the  bear  repeatedly  till  he  bled  to  death — never  re- 
leasing his  hold  till  life  was  gone !  Not  a  rag  was 
left  on  Minter ;  and  his  body  and  limbs  were  lacera- 
ted with  the  claws  of  the  bear.  He  was  only  able 
to  crawl  to  a  log,  till  rested ;  and  then  could  only 
crawl  home,  with  no  covering  but  blood.  When  his 
friends  came  to  view  the  ground  next  morning,  they 


Ashley  to  Galion. 


69 


found  the  surface  torn  up  for  half  an  acre.  His  scars 
and  welts  always  remained — and  he  gave  up  hunting 
forever. 

Ashley,  150  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and  104  from 
Cleveland,  is  a  small,  new  place,  in  Morrow  county. 
This  and  the  next  five  places,  have  wTholly  grown  up 
since  the  location  of  the  railroad. 

Cardington,  156  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and  96 
miles  from  Cleveland,  is  another  new  village  of  Mor- 
row county.  It  contains  about  400  inhabitants,  and 
from  all  appearances,  is  growing  with  rapidity. 

Gilead  Station,  161  miles  from  Cincinnati,  41 
miles  from  Columbus,  and  91  from  Cleveland.  The 
village  is  about  2i  miles  to  the  east.  Gilead  is  the 
county  seat  of  Morrow,  and  contains  about  800  in- 
habitants. It  formerly  belonged  to  Marion  county, 
from  which  it  was  set  off,  to  make  the  new  county. 

Galion,  174  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and  78  from 
Cleveland.  This  is  chiefly  distinguished  as  a  rail- 
road station,  and  the  intersection  of  the  Cincinnati 
and  Cleveland  Railroad,  with  the  Bellefontaine  and 
Indiana  Railroad.  The  Bellefontaine  and  Indiana  is 
118  miles  in  length,  and  at  Union,  the  State  line  of 
Ohio  and  Indiana,  connects  with  the  Indianapolis  and 
Bellefontaine  Railroad,  83  miles  in  length,  which 
make  201  miles  from  Galion  to  Indianapolis,  There 
it  connects  with  the  various  railroads  going  to  Madi- 
son, Terre  Haute,  and  La  Fayette. 


70  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

Galion  is  in  the  county  of  Crawford, — one  corner 
of  which  we  pass  through. 

Crawford  county  was  named  from  Col.  William 
Crawford,  who  also  gave  name  to  Crawford's  Defeat, 
one  of  the  most  disastrous  battles  which  ever  took 
place  between  the  whites  and  Indians.  Crawford 
was  a  Virginian,  born  in  the  same  year  with  Wash- 
ington— who  was  his  friend,  and  often,  in  his  visits 
to  the  west,  became  an  inmate  of  his  humble  dwell- 
ing, in  Fayette  county,  Pennsylvania.  He  raised  a 
regiment  in  the  Revolution,  by  his  own  exertions, 
and  became  a  Colonel  of  Continentals.  In  1783,  he 
very  reluctantly  engaged  in  this  expedition  against 
the  Indians,  the  result  of  which  was  total  defeat,  and 
his  own  death,  amidst  excruciating  tortures. 

Whatever  might  have  been  Crawford's  merits,  the 
result  was  a  measure  of  just  retribution.  In  the 
preceding  year,  the  whites  attacked  and  destroyed 
the  innocent  and  unoffending  Christian  Indians,  at 
the  Moravian  Towns.  The  leader  of  this  most  cruel 
and  horrid  outrage,  was  a  Col.  Williamson.  The 
poor  Indians,  unsuspicious,  had  quietly  surrendered 
to  Williamson  and  his  men;  who  decided  they  should 
all  be  killed, — murdered.  Their  faith  and  devotion 
never  left  them;  but  they  died  amidst  their  prayers. 
*  Their  orisons  were  already  ascending  the  throne  of 
the  Most  High !  The  sound  of  the  Christian  hymn, 
and  the  Christian  prayer,  found  an  echo  in  the  sur- 


Col.  Crawford. 


71 


rounding  woods,  but  no  responsive  feeling  in  the 
bosom  of  their  executioners.  With  gun,  and  spear, 
and  tomahawk,  and  scalping  knife,  the  work  of  death 
progressed  in  these  slaughter  houses,  till  not  a  sigh 
or  moan  was  heard,  to  proclaim  the  existence  of  hu- 
man life  within.  All  died,  save  two  Indian  boys, 
who  escaped,  as  if  by  miracle,  to  be  witnesses  in  af- 
ter times,  of  the  savage  cruelty  of  the  white  man 
towards  their  unfortunate  race."  Congress  felt  the 
atrocity  of  this  act,  and  passed  an  ordinance  for  the 
encouragement  of  the  Moravian  Missions.  Provi- 
dence, however,  avenged  this  murder  in  the  most 
signal  manner,  as  if  purposely  to  mark  the  divine 
displeasure  on  the  persecutors  of  his  servants. 

As  we  have  said,  in  the  year  following,  Col.  Craw- 
ford reluctantly  led  a  large  body  of  frontier  men, 
in  another  expedition  against  the  Indians.  Let  it 
not  be  supposed,  that  any  sentiment  of  mercy  or 
humanity  had  entered  the  hearts  of  this  body,  in 
consequence  of  the  preceding  atrocities.  On  the 
contrary,  this  expedition  was  planned  to  destroy  the 
Wyandot  towns,  on  the  Sandusky;  and  it  was  re- 
solved to  spare  neither  man,  woman,  or  child — 
friendly  or  unfriendly.  The  intention  of  the  whites 
was  to  proceed  with  secrecy;  but  this  was  vain. 
The  Indians — by  their  scouts — knew  their  numbers, 
object,  and  plan.  The  army  reached  the  upper  Mo- 
ravian towns  5  but  they  were  deserted.    It  pursued 


72  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

its  way  across  the  Sandusky  plains,  till  the  Indians 
were  met  in  full  force.  A  battle  ensued,  in  which 
neither  party  had  the  victory;  but  the  Indians 
continued  to  increase  in  such  numbers,  that  a  retreat 
took  place  at  night.  In  the  retreat,  several  large 
parties  detached  themselves  from  the  main  body, 
thinking  thus  to  avoid  the  Indians ;  but  it  turned 
out  the  reverse.  These  parties  were  nearly  all  cut 
off  and  destroyed.  Col.  Crawford,  who  had  lingered 
behind,  to  look  for,  and  save  some  of  his  friends,  was 
cut  off,  and  taken  by  the  Indians.  He  was  carried 
to  the  Indian  towns,  and  after  many  tortures  and 
cruelties,  was  burnt  alive. 

The  danger  of  being  found  in  bad  company,  was 
never  more  signally  illustrated,  than  in  this  instance. 
Williamson,  it  was,  as  I  have  related,  who  had  com- 
manded the  party,  which  destroyed  the  Moravian 
towns.  The  Indians  looked  upon  him,  as  not  only  a 
cruel,  but  a  very  bad  man,  and  were  determined  to 
have  full  vengeance.  When  Crawford  took  com- 
mand of  the  second  party,  they  associated  him  with 
Williamson — although  they  knew  and  had  a  good 
opinion  of  him.  This  association  with  Williamson, 
was  the  cause  of  his  cruel  death ;  for  when  Crawford 
sent  for  Wingemunn,  a  chief  whom  he  knew,  and 
who  was  friendly  to  him,  Wingemunn  told  him  that 
nothing  could  be  done  to  save  him ;  for  he  was  in 
company  with  that  bad  man,  Williamson.  Crawford 


Col.  Crawford. 


73 


answered,  that  he  went  out  to  restrain  Williamson, 
and  prevent  him  from  committing  cruelties.  Win- 
gemunn  replied,  that  the  Indians  wrould  not  believe 
that,  if  he  told  them ;  for  they  knew  he  could  not 
prevent  them. 

A  paragraph  from  this  dialogue,  as  reported  by 
Heckewelder,  is  worth  quoting ;  for  it  shows  the  In- 
dian sagacity  and  sense  of  justice.    It  is  given  thus  : 

Crawford — Out  of  my  power !  Have  any  Mora- 
vian Indians  been  killed  or  hurt  since  we  came  out  ? 

Wingemimn — None  ;  but  you  first  went  to  their 
town,  and  finding  it  deserted,  you  turned  on  the 
path  towards  us.  If  you  had  been  in  search  of  war- 
riors only,  you  would  not  have  gone  thither.  Our 
spies  watched  you  closely.  They  saw  you  while 
you  were  embodying  yourselves  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Ohio.  They  saw  you  cross  the  river.  They 
saw  where  you  encamped  for  the  night.  They  saw 
you  turn  off  from  the  path  to  the  deserted  American 
town.  They  knew  you  were  going  out  of  the  way. 
Tour  steps  were  constantly  watched,  and  you  were 
suffered  quietly  to  proceed,  until  you  reached  the 
spot  where  you  were  attacked.'' 

Crawford  felt  that  with  this  sentence,  ended  his 
last  ray  of  hope,  and  now  asked  with  emotion,  a  what 
do  they  intend  to  do  with  me  ?  " 

Wingemimn. — I  tell  you  with  grief.  As  William- 
son and  his  whole  cowardly  host,  ran  off  in  the  night, 


74  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

at  the  whistling  of  our  warriors'  balls,  being  satisfied 
that  now  he  had  no  Moravians  to  deal  with,  but  men 
who  could  fight,  and  with  such  he  did  not  wish  to 
have  anything  to  do.  I  say,  as  they  have  escaped, 
and  taken  you,  they  will  take  revenge  on  you,  in 
his  stead." 

And  so  they  did.  And  the  story  of  Crawford's 
defeat  will  long  be  remembered,  for  its  woes  and  its 
losses.  But  was  it  not  retributive  justice?  Was 
ever  anything  more  cruel,  more  awfully  unjust,  than 
the  slaughter  of  the  peaceful,  unoffending  Moravian 
Indians?  Was  there  ever  a  greater  iniquity,  than 
that  act,  as  described  by  Wingemunn,  of  turning  off 
from  their  real  enemies,  to  pursue  a  second  time, 
these  poor  Moravians? 

I  have  given  the  story,  as  an  illustration  of  our 
border  wars,  and  of  the  frequent  instances  in  which 
the  whites  were  the  aggressors.  I  have  already 
said,  that  in  fact,  and  ultimately,  the  barbarous  Indi- 
ans could  have  no  solid  right  to  a  continent  which 
they  were  unable  to  cultivate  or  civilize.  That  is 
true;  but,  atrocities  such  as  that  upon  the  Moravian 
Indians,  can  have  no  apology  in  any  human  code  of 
morals.  It  was  a  dark  wrong— diabolical  in  its 
spirit,  and  inhuman  in  its  act. 

Crestline  is  an  important  railway  station,  at  the 
intersection  of  two  great  lines  of  railway,  viz :  the 
Cincinnati  and  Cleveland  line,  and  the  continuation 


Shelby. 


75 


of  the  Pennsylvania  Central,  through  Ohio  and  Indi- 
ana. From  Crestline  to  Pittsburgh,  by  the  Ohio 
and  Pennsylvania  Railroad,  is  187  miles;  and  from 
Crestline  to  Fort  Wayne,  Indiana,  120  miles.  From 
Pittsburgh  to  Philadelphia,  is  353  miles.  Thus, 
there  is  a  continuous  line  of  Railway,  from  Philadel- 
phia,— via  Pittsburgh,  Crestline,  Bucyrus,  Crawford 
county,  Lima,  Allen  county, —  to  Fort  Wayne; 
thence,  a  system  of  railways — now  constructing — 
will  take  the  traveler  to  any  point  on  the  Ohio,  the 
Wabash,  or  Lake  Michigan.  At  Crestline,  therefore, 
he  can,  if  he  please,  depart  to  any  point  in  the  Uni- 
ted States.  Large  and  handsome  depots  and  shops 
are  erected  here  for  the  accommodation  of  the  exten- 
sive business  which  must  necessarily  be  conducted 
at  this  point. 

Shelby  (of  which  we  have  given  a  view),  is  also 
an  important  station.  Here  the  track  of  the  Mans- 
field and  Lake  Erie  Railroad,  crosses  that  of  the 
Cleveland  and  Cincinnati  line.  Here  the  traveler 
may  have  a  choice  of  routes.  He  may  go  to  San- 
dusky City,  by  the  Mansfield  Railroad,  or  he  may 
go  south  to  Mansfield,  Mount  Vernon,  Newark,  and 
Zanesville.  At  Newark,  the  Mansfield  Railroad 
connects  with  the  Scioto  and  Hocking  Railroad, 
which  will  continue  it  to  Portsmouth,  on  the  Ohio. 
When  completed,  this  will  make  one  of  the  through 
lines  of  the  State, — passing  from  Sandusky  City, 


76  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

through  Shelbj^  Mansfield,  Mount  Vernon,  Newark, 
Lancaster,  Logan,  Jackson,  to  Portsmouth — and  pene- 
trating the  western  edge  of  the  mineral  regions  of 
Ohio. 

Mansfield, — for  which  Shelby  is  the  station — is  a 
large  town  of  about  4,000  inhabitants — county  seat 
of  Richland  county.  It  was  named  from  General 
Jared  Mansfield,  Surveyor  General  of  the  North- 
western Territory,  from  1803  to  1812.  Richland  is 
one  of  the  great  wheat  counties,  which  extend  in  a 
sort  of  belt  through  this  part  of  Ohio.  It  is  quite 
singular,  that  although  Ave  are  now  in  the  most  pro- 
ductive grain  region  of  the  United  States,  wre  see 
scarcely  any  indications  of  it!  Everything  is  new, 
and  the  fields  are  not  remarkably  well  cultivated. 
The  reason,  however,  is  obvious.  The  railway,  to 
obtain  proper  grades,  has  gone  on  a  new  path, 
avoiding  all  the  old  highways,  and  therefore  leaving 
out  of  sight,  the  best  houses  and  farms.  That  we 
may  have  some  idea,  however,  of  what  this  wheat 
belt  really  does  produce,  I  take  the  following  facts 
from  the  Auditor  of  State's  Report.  Including  the 
county  we  are  in,  there  are  just  thirteen  counties, 
viz :  Morrow,  Richland,  Knox,  Ashland,  Wayne, 
Holmes,  Coshocton,  Stark,  Tuscarawas,  Columbiana, 
Carroll,  Harrison,  and  Jefferson,  between  the  west 
line  of  Richland  and  the  Ohio  River.  These  coun- 
ties cover  a  surface  of  6,000  square  miles,  and  pro- 


Salem  to  Greenwich. 


77 


duced  in  the  year  1850,  nine  million  of  bushels  of 
wheat,  and  six  million  five  hundred  thousand  bushels  of 
corn!  These  counties  contained  350,000  inhabi- 
tants ;  so  that  they  raised  a  surplus  of  at  least  six 
million  of  bushels  of  wheat!  No  part  of  the  United 
States  of  equal  extent,  raises  the  same  amount; 
indeed  no  single  State  produces  a  surplus  equal  to 
that  of  these  counties,  in  1850.  If  the  traveler 
could  leave  the  railway  at  the  Shelby  station,  and 
take  a  buggy, — traveling  on  the  common  roads  of 
the  country, — he  would  then  see  something  of  these 
waving  fields  of  wheat  and  corn,  which  make  this 
the  granary  of  the  West. 

Salem  is  only  a  station,  193  miles  from  Cincinnati, 
and  60  miles  from  Cleveland.  It  is  on  the  northern 
edge  of  Richland  county. 

Greenwich,  199  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and  54 
miles  from  Cleveland,  is  in  Huron,  the  western  county 
of  the  Western  Reserve. 

The  Western  Reserve,  as  it  is  commonly  called, 
is  every  where  known  as  a  particular  section  of 
Ohio — almost  amounting  to  a  separate  State.  It  is 
also  called  "New  Connecticut,"  from  the  fact  that  it 
was  originally  owned  and  chiefly  settled  by  Connec- 
ticut. The  manner  in  which  it  came  to  belong 
to  Connecticut  is  very  curious  When  the  first 
charters  were  granted  to  the  American  Colonies, 
there  wras  great  ignorance  in  regard  to  the  geogra- 


78  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

phy  of  this  continent.  Indeed,  it  was  an  unexplored 
region — a  complete  terra  incognita.  The  charters, 
therefore,  frequently  conflicted  with  one  another. 
This  was  the  case  with  the  charter  of  Connecticut, 
by  which  King  Charles  the  II.  conveyed  to  the  Con- 
necticut Colony,  all  the  lands  between  the  41st  and 
42d  degrees  of  latitude,  from  the  Providence  planta- 
tion to  the  Pacific  Ocean !  This,  of  course,  conflicted 
with  New  York  and  Pennsylvania,  with  whom  there 
immediately  arose  an  altercation.  In  1786,  Connect- 
icut, in  common  with  the  other  States,  granted  to 
the  General  Government,  all  her  western  lands ;  but 
kept  up  her  claims  on  Pennsylvania  and  New  York. 
At  length,  the  United  States  Government  compro- 
mised the  matter,  by  reserving  to  the  State  of  Con- 
necticut this  district,  containing  3,800,000  acres, — 
which  the  State  has  since  sold,  and  the  proceeds  of 
which  constitutes  the  basis  of  the  Connecticut  School 
Funds.  The  Reserve  contains  twelve  counties,  viz : 
Ashtabula,  Trumbull,  Mahoning,  Lake,  Geauga,  Por- 
tage, Cuyahoga,  Summit,  Medina,  Lorain,  Erie,  and 
Huron.  We  are  now  traversing  Huron.  This  is  a 
productive  county — being  level  and  generally  rich. 
The  arable  ground,  (about  50,000  acres  in  cultiva- 
tion), is  about  equally  divided,  between  the  culture 
of  corn  and  wheat.  Large  parts  of  the  lands  of  this 
county,  however,  are  used  as  pastures  and  meadows 
— which  feed  great  numbers  of  cattle  and  sheep. 


New  London  to  Rochester.  79 

Huron  was  originally  constituted  entirely  out  of 
the  "Fire  Lands/' — a  body  of  land  given  by  the 
State  of  Connecticut,  to  those  of  its  citizens  who 
suffered  by  fire  in  the  revolutionary  war.  These 
were  principally  in  the  towns  of  Norwalk,  Danbury, 
and  New  Haven.  As  usual,  however,  most  of  them 
fell  into  the  hands  of  speculators,  and  some  of  them 
have  been  held  by  the  original  purchasers  to  this  day. 

We  cross,  near  Greenwich,  the  head  waters  of 
Vermillion  River,  which  empties  into  Lake  Erie,  at 
the  port  of  Vermillion, — a  place  which  has  consid- 
erable commerce. 

New  London  is  the  next  station,  47  miles  from 
Cleveland.  After  leaving  this  station,  we  soon  pass 
out  of  Huron  county,  and  come  to 

Rochester,  41  miles  from  Cleveland.  This  station 
is  in  Lorain  county.  This  county  has  no  great  com- 
mercial town,  but  is  nevertheless,  a  fast  growing  and 
flourishing  district.  It  is  much  less  productive  in 
grain,  than  the  counties  we  have  just  passed  through, 
but  has  large  numbers  of  cattle  and  sheep,  and  fine 
pasturage.  Its  principal  towns  are  Elyria,  the  county 
seat,  and  the  celebrated  Oberlin.  It  is  watered  by 
Black  River, — at  whose  mouth  there  centres  consid- 
erable commerce.  The  rivers  of  the  Reserve  are  all 
quite  short — only  about  40  or  50  miles  in  length — 
and  not  navigable — yet  as  their  mouths  constitute 
almost  the  only  harbors  on  the  Lakes,  they  have 


80 


The  Illustrated  Guide, 


created  points  of  concentration  for  navigation  and 
commerce.  This  is  the  case  with  the  Maumee,  San- 
dusky, Huron,  Vermillion,  Black  River,  Cuyahoga, 
and  Grand  River;  from  all  of  which — even  the 
smallest — there  is  a  large  export  trade. 

In  traveling  through  Lorain  and  Cuyahoga,  the 
traveler  will  note  that  he  is  not  only  in  the "  Reserve," 
hut  he  is  in  a  very  different  country,  as  to  soil  and 
geological  appearances.  In  the  Miami  country,  we 
found  valleys  of  rich  black  soil,  of  exceeding  fertility 
— surrounded  by  rolling  hills,  round  and  graceful. 
As  we  came  through  the  wheat  "belt,  we  found  the 
land  rolling — but  scarcely  any  hills — with  a  loamy 
soil, — neither  the  black  alluvian,  nor  the  clay ;  but 
well  adapted  to  the  small  grain;  but  now,  as  we 
approach  the  Lake,  the  ground  is  flat  and  clayey — 
producing  fine  grass,  but  not  very  productive  in 
grain.  The  original  opinion  held  of  these  soils,  may 
be  known,  by  the  early  classification  of  soils.  That 
of  the  Miami  valleys,  was  set  down  as  first  rate ; 
that  of  the  middle  counties,  as  second  rate  ;  and  that 
of  the  Reserve,  as  third  rate.  Judged  by  the  stand- 
ard of  Indian  corn,  this  was  a  correct  classification. 
But  Nature  has  a  way  peculiar  to  every  kind  of 
soil,  as  well  as  plant.  These  lands  of  the  Reserve, 
produce  excellent  grass;  and  its  inhabitants  make 
up  in  cheese,  and  butter,  and  wool,  what  they  lack 
in  com. 


Wellington  Station.  81 

Wellington  Station,  also  in  Lorain,  is  36  miles 
from  Cleveland.  We  are  now  about  nine  miles  from 
Oberlin,  an  institution,  which,  in  its  early  stages, 
excited  many  prejudices.;  but  which  seems  to  have 
triumphed  over  all,  and  established  for  itself  a  high 
reputation.  Its  characteristics  are  peculiar.  It  is 
exclusively  religious.  It  admits  persons  of  both 
sexes,  and  all  colors.  It  teaches  the  dead  languages, 
but  without  the  heathen  classics;  and  it  endeavors 
to  give  a  thoroughly  useful  education — physical, 
moral,  and  intellectual.  From  1840  to  1845,  it  had 
an  average  of  500  students  annually ;  and  we  are 
informed  it  now  has  1000.  This  is  certainly  great 
success  as  to  numbers ;  and  time  seems  to  strengthen, 
rather  than  impair  confidence  in  its  usefulness. 

La  Grange  Station  is  29  miles  from  Cleveland. 

Grafton,  25  miles  from  Cleveland,  is  at  the  inter- 
section of  the  Cleveland  and  Columbus  Railroad 
with  the  Toledo,  Norwalk,  and  Cleveland  Railroad, 
and  also  at  the  crossing  of  Black  River.  The  Toledo, 
Norwalk,  and  Cleveland  Railroad,  commences  at 
Toledo,  where  it  connects  with  the  Michigan  roads, 
and  passing  through  Fremont,  the  county  seat  of 
Sandusky,  and  Norwalk,  the  county  seat  of  Huron, 
intersects  the  Cleveland  road,  at  this  place.  From 
Grafton  to  Toledo  is  84  miles ;  and  from  Cleveland 
to  Toledo  is  112  miles,  which  is  run  in  about  five 
7 


82  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

hours.  On  the  opposite  page,  is  a  view  of  Grafton 
station, 

Olmstead,  15  miles  from  Cleveland.  Near  this, 
we  cross  Rocky  River,  by  a  fine  bridge. 

Here,  we  begin  to  see  a  few  scattered  pines  and 
cedars — denoting  a  total  change  in  the  geological 
features  of  the  country.  From  this  to  Western  New 
York,  and  Northern  Pennsylvania — comprehending 
a  very  large  tract  of  country — the  pine  is  one  of  the 
predominant  trees — diversifying  the  scenery  with  its 
deep  evergreen  and  its  straight  trunk. 

Berea  is  three  miles  further,  at  the  falls  of  the 
east  branch  of  Rocky  River.  Berea  is  chiefly  known 
for  its  grindstones,  of  which  there  are  great  num- 
bers made  here.  It  was  originally  laid  out  by  a 
sort  of  stock  company,  who  had  formed  high  ideas 
of  the  benefits  of  association. 

At  this  point,  we  are  very  near  the  Junction  Ohio 
Railroad,  from  Cleveland  to  Sandusky — which,  how- 
ever, pursues  a  separate  track  to  Cleveland.  This 
road  is  now  consolidated  with  the  Toledo,  Norwalk, 
and  Cleveland — under  the  name  of  the  Cleveland 
and  Toledo  Railroad,  whose  President  is  the  Hon. 
Samuel  F.  Vinton. 

Rockport,  7  miles  from  Cleveland,  is  the  next 
station.  We  are  now  gradually  descending  the 
slope  from  the  great  plain  of  Ohio  to  the  Lake.  We 
approach  Cleveland  through  a  deep  ravine,  into  the 


Cleveland. 


83 


valley  of  the  Cuyahoga,  and  find  our  depot  nearly 
down  to  the  level  of  the  Lake — and  in  the  midst  of 
the  shipping  and  bustle  of  what  seems  to  be  a  sea- 
port. 

Accompanying  this,  is  a  plate  of  the  Depot  Build- 
ings, Pier,  and  Harbor  of  Cleveland.  The  depot 
here  is  a  very  bustling  place — crowded  with  multi- 
tudes of  cars,  and  draymen,  hackmen,  porters,  steam- 
boat runners,  &c,  innumerable.  Let  the  traveler  take 
care  of  himself;  for,  although  the  railways  and  their 
officers  and  agents,  are  all  systematic  and  orderly; 
yet  in  such  a  crowTd  there  is  abundant  need  of  the 
caution  which  wre  see  posted  up,  "Bewahe  of  Pick- 
pockets." 

Cleveland,  253  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and  {via 
the  Erie  Railroad,)  602  miles  from  New  York,  is 
called  the  Forest  City — and  most  appropriately,  too ; 
for  nearly  all  the  streets  are  shaded  with  beautiful 
trees.  Cleveland  is  the  second  town  in  Ohio,  and 
one  of  the  most  flourishing  in  the  United  States. 
Including  Ohio  City,  its  growth  has  been  thus,  viz : 

In  1825,   500 

In  1830,     -   1,000 

In  1835,   5,000 

In  1840,   6,071 

In  1845,   12,000 

In  1850,   22,000 

In  1854,  (estimated)      -     -  37,000 


84  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

Including  Ohio  City — separated  only  by  the  Cuy- 
ahoga— and  with  which  it  is  now  united — -it  is  the 
twenty-second  towrn  in  magnitude  in  the  United 
States.  It  was  founded  by  General  Moses  Cleve- 
land, in  1796,  and  named  after  him.  For  nearly 
thirty  years,  till  1825 — when  the  canal  got  into  full 
operation — Cleveland  was  only  a  small,  straggling 
village — beset  with  sickness,  and  consequently  a  bad 
name.  In  the  uncultivated  state  of  the  country — 
and  while  the  banks  of  the  Cuyahoga  were  yet  over- 
hung with  decaying  vegetation — fevers  infected  the 
inhabitants,  and  the  place  was  shunned  by  the  im- 
migrant. When  the  Ohio  canal  was  completed,  the 
business  temptations  to  settle  at  Cleveland,  were  too 
great  to  be  resisted.  Vegetation  became  less  lux- 
uriant, and  gradually  the  town  recovered  from  both 
the  fact  and  the  fame  of  fever.  After  1830,  (as 
the  above  figures  show),  the  town  rapidly  grew.  Its 
advantages  for  business  are  very  great — being  the 
outlet  of  the  Ohio  canal,  and  the  best  harbor  on 
Lake  Erie,  within  an  hundred  miles.  The  canal 
brought  to  it  the  vast  export  trade  of  Northern 
Ohio — especially  of  the  great  wheat  counties,  and 
for  the  same  reason,  it  became  an  entrepot  of  impor- 
ted goods.  This  gave  it  the  first  impulse.  Then 
came  the  era  of  railways ;  and  Cleveland  was  one  of 
the  first  western  towns  to  foresee  and  take  advantage 
of  the  new  system  of  commerce  and  locomotion.  So 


CO 


no 


oo 


Cleveland. 


85 


it  received  a  second  great  impulse,  and  is  now  grow- 
ing with  great  rapidity.  In  I860,  it  will,  in  all 
probability,  have  some  60  or  70,000  inhabitants,  and 
will  have  surpassed  all  but"  some  fifteen  or  sixteen 
cities  of  the  United  States. 

In  order  to  give  some  idea  of  its  commercial  im- 
portance, I  annex  some  statistics  of  its  exports  and 
imports — which,  dry  as  they  are,  may  nevertheless 
interest  the  mercantile  traveler.  The  reports  of  the 
Board  of  Public  Works,  in  Ohio,  enable  us  to  see 
how  much  of  strictly  Ohio  products  arrive  at  this 
port;  though  even  this  will  be  incomplete;  for  of 
course  much  is  brought  by  railway.  The  report 
gives  the  arrival  of  the  following  articles,  at  Cleve- 
land, by  canal,  for  1853,  viz: 

Flour,       -     -     -     -        589,466  bbls. 
Wheat,     ....     1,817,677  bushels. 

Pork,  12,198  bbls. 

Whisky,   39,807  " 

Bacon,      ....     1,160,624  lbs. 
Butter,     ....     1,844,554  « 
Cheese,     -     -     -     .     1,178,525  u 
Wool,       ....     1;200,903  " 
Iron  of  all  kinds,    -     -     -      9,700  tons. 
Coal,        ...     .     4,969,174  bushels. 
These,  with  numerous  other  minor  articles  received 
and  handled  at  Cleveland,  of  the  produce  of  Ohio, 
make  up  ten  millions  of  dollars  in  value ;  while  the 


86 


The  Illustrated  Guide. 


products  of  other  States,  and  of  foreign  growth  re- 
ceived here,  amount  to  many  millions  more.  There 
is  room,  therefore,  for  an  extensive  commerce — and 
as  we  look  into  the  Harbor,  we  shall  see  steamers, 
schooners,  propellers,  canal  boats,  in  every  direction. 
Scarcely  a  moment  passes,  that  there  is  not  some 
sail  vessel,  or  some  smoking  steamer  arriving  or 
departing.  In  fact,  Cleveland  has  both  the  elements 
and  the  appearance  of  a  commercial  seaport;  and 
one,  w7hich  is  yet  in  the  very  youth  of  its  growth 
and  vigor.  All  is  activity  and  bustle.  All  is  new- 
ness, freshness,  and  the  springing  elasticity  of  con- 
scious strength. 

Let  us  turn  now  to  its  Railroads,  which  are  here- 
after to  constitute  one  of  the  main  elements  of  its 
prosperity.  We  have  now  traveled  252  miles  on 
the  line  from  Cincinnati.  This  line  was  originally 
constructed  by  three  companies — the  Little  Miami, 
the  Xenia  and  Columbus,  and  the  Cleveland,  Cincin- 
cinnati  and  Columbus.  The  interests  of  the  two 
former  have  been  united;  and  now  the  whole  line  is 
run  by  two  companies,  meeting  in  Columbus.  The 
railways  at  present  concentrating  in  Cleveland,  are 

The  Cleveland  and  Cincinnati  Line,   252  miles. 

The  Cleveland  and  Erie  Line,    95  " 

The  Cleveland  and  Toledo  Line,  (northern  division,)      60  " 

"    (southern  division,)      88  " 
The  Cleveland  and  Pittsburgh  Line,   99  " 


Cleveland. 


87 


The  Cleveland  and  Zanesville  Line,.   104  miles. 

To  Cleveland,  proper,   698  " 

The  last  line  is  only  completed  in  part;  but  the 
whole  is  in  course  of  construction.  By  these  sev- 
eral railways,  connections  are  made  between  Cleve- 
land, and  almost  every  important  point  in  the  Uni- 
ted States.  The  following  are  the  principal  railway 
routes,  as  formed  by  these  connections,  viz: 


To  New  York,  via  Erie  and  Dunkirk,  602  miles. 

To  Cincinnati,   252  " 

To  St.  Louis,  via  Toledo,  Chicago,  and  Alton,  631  " 

To  Baltimore,  via  Pittsburgh,  492  " 

To  Philadelphia,  via  Pittsburgh  and  Harrisburgh. .  .480  " 

To  Washington  City,  via  Baltimore,  516  " 

To  Boston,  via  Albany,  684  " 


From  each  of  these  cities,  again,  there  are  connec- 
tions with  all  the  principal  interior  towns;  so  that, 
from  Cleveland  the  traveler  may  find  his  way,  in  a 
very  short  time,  to  any  point  his  business  or  pleasure 
may  lead  him.  Cincinnati  may  be  reached  in  nine 
hours;  Philadelphia,  New  York  and  Baltimore  in  24 
hours.  How  wonderfully  everything  has  changed  in 
a  very  few  years!  I  remember  when  it  took  a  week 
to  go  from  Cleveland  to  Cincinnati,  and  that,  too,  a 
week  of  hard  work! 

The  united  effects  of  large  commerce — of  rapid 
and  cheap  locomotion — of  a  healthy,  tonic  air — of  an 
industrious  people,  and  a  moral  and  religious  tone  of 


88  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

society,  are  the  building  up  of  Cleveland,  not  only 
in  property,  but  in  a  beautiful  and  attractive  form. 
If  the  traveler  has  time  to  walk  about,  and  take  a 
view  of  the  upper  town,  he  will  find  Cleveland  one 
of  the  most  charming  places  in  this  country.  We 
have  approached  it — as  railways  always  do  large 
towns — in  a  most  unattractive  way,  and  looked  only 
at  the  ravine  and  low  valley  of  the  Cuyahoga,  with 
its  untidy  and  unarchitectural  buildings.  But  not 
so  Cleveland  on  the  hill.  The  broad  and  regular 
streets,  shaded  with  lofty  trees — the  blocks  of  fine 
buildings — the  neat  private  residences — the  numer- 
ous churches,  schools  and  seminaries — the  large 
public  square,  with  its  walks  and  avenues — the  glori- 
ous look-out  on  the  Lake — all  conspire  to  please  and 
charm  the  stranger.  The  scenery  of  Cleveland  is 
lovely;  and  yet  it  is  without  mountain,  rock  or  tor- 
rent.   It  is  the  beautiful,  without  the  sublime. 

Here,  in  coming  from  the  south,  we  first  touch  the 
shores  of  Lake  Erie — and  the  first  sight  of  it,  if  on 
a  bright  day,  is  a  glorious  sight.  It  is  like,  and  yet 
not  like,  the  Ocean.  There  are  two  things  on  the 
shore  of  the  Ocean  which  always  tell  us  it  is  the 
Ocean,  and  we  do  not  find  them  on  the  Lake.  One 
is  the  regular  surge  of  the  tides.  Lake  Erie  has  no 
tides;  and  one  who  has  seen  the  Ocean,  misses  that 
regular  heave  and  roar  of  the  waters.  Another  is, 
the  coast  of  the  Sea  has  everywhere  a  certain  primi- 


Lake  Erie. 


89 


tive  hardness  of  feature,  which  you  do  not  see  here. 
You  find  yourself  on  the  shore  of  a  great,  broad 
water,  which  to  the  eye  seems  like  the  Ocean — a 
vast,  sublime  expanse  of  waters;  but  something 
reminds  you  it  is  not  the  Ocean,  and  you  look  around 
in  a  surprised  and  wondering  delight.  The  surprise 
would  be  much  greater  if  we  were  not  well  prepared 
beforehand,  to  meet  such  a  view. 

As  a  scene,  the  Lake  has  always  something  to 
interest  you.  Whether  seen  in  a  dark  night,  amidst 
scowling  tempests  and  livid  lightnings,  or  in  the 
peaceful  calm  of  a  summer's  day,  it  is  always  inter- 
esting. There  is  scarcely  an  hour  in  a  clear  day,  in 
which  several  sail  vessels  may  not  be  seen  on  its 
bosom.  On  the  distant  horizon,  they  seem  like  some 
light  cloud  floating  on  the  water,  while  near  by  they 
loom  up,  under  full  canvass,  glistening  in  the  sun, 
and  majestically  approaching.  Near  by  are  the  fiery 
steamers,  sending  forth  their  dark  columns  of  smoke, 
and  hurrying  on  with  superhuman  power.  You  look 
over  the  waters,  and  strain  your  eyes  in  vain  to  catch 
the  Canada  shore,  which  you  know  is  there,  but  which 
seems  now  buried  in  the  blue  sky.  You  look  in 
vain;  but  every  now  and  then  think  you  see  the 
blue  distant  hills,  when  in  fact  they  are  only  banks 
of  clouds  on  the  far  horizon. 

The  Lakes  of  North  America  form,  perhaps,  the 
most  remarkable  feature  of  this  continent.  The 


90  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

Caspian  Sea,  it  is  true,  is  larger  than  either  one  of 
them  *  hut  neither  the  Caspian,  nor  any  collection  of 
Lakes  or  Seas,  is  at  all  comparable  to  the  chain  of 
the  American  Lakes,  which,  extending  from  the  Lake 
of  the  Woods  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  make,  in 
fact,  a  continual  succession  of  inland  Seas,  extend- 
ing (Lake  Michigan  included)  nearly  2000  miles  in 
extent. 

Lake  Erie — the  sixth  in  the  series — is,  in  round 
numbers,  about  240  miles  in  length,  by  40  in  breadth. 
This  is  not  more  than  one-fourth  the  surface  of  Lakes 
Huron  or  Superior;  but  is  in  some  particulars  more 
interesting  than  either.  Its  commerce  is  now  greater 
than  that  of  either  of  the  Lakes,  and,  at  its  eastern 
extremity,  the  whole  body  of  its  waters  is  poured 
over  the  rapids  and  falls  of  Niagara.  The  cause  and 
phenomena  of  Niagara  Falls  are  all  explained  by  a 
simple  reference  to  the  comparative  levels  of  Lakes 
Erie  and  Ontario.  Lake  Erie  is  565  feet  above  tide 
water,  and  322  feet  above  Lake  Ontario.  The  con- 
sequence of  this  difference  is,  that  the  waters  of  Erie 
have  to  descend  565  feet  to  reach  the  Ocean,  of  which 
322  feet  are  between  Buffalo  and  Lake  Ontario — 
only  about  40  miles.  Part  of  this  is  accomplished 
in  the  rapids  above  and  below  the  Falls;  but  the 
great  descent  is  at  Niagara,  where  may  be  seen  and 
studied,  in  all  its  glory,  that  wonderful  phenomenon 
of  nature,  the  Falls  of  Lake  Erie — for  such  it  is — 


Lake  Erie. 


91 


over  the  grand  rock  rampart  which  separates  it  from 
Ontario. 

Has  Lake  Erie  a  tide?  is  a  question  which  seems 
to  have  puzzled  the  natural  philosophers,  though  now 
satisfactorily  settled.  A  tide  like  the  Ocean  it  was 
never  supposed  to  have.  But  the  Lake  was  observed 
to  be  higher  in  some  years  than  in  others.  This  was 
thought  by  some  to  be  a  regular  rise  and  fall.  Of 
late  years,  however,  exact  observations  have  been 
kept,  and  compared  with  those  in  former  time ;  and 
the  result  is,  that  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  Lake  is 
proved  to  be  very  irregular,  and  to  depend  merely 
upon  the  greater  or  less  fall  of  water  on  the  great 
northern  plain,  whose  springs  and  rains  mainly  sup- 
ply the  Lakes.  The  descent  of  water  is  various,  in 
different  years,  and  cannot  be  carried  off  suddenly, 
because  the  obstruction  at  Niagara  is  uniform,  and 
the  waters  of  Erie  must  rise  above  the  ordinary  level 
before  the  amount  carried  over  the  rock  ledge  of  Ni- 
agara will  be  sensibly  increased.  Col.  Whittlesey 
of  Cleveland,  a  distinguished  geologist,  has  given  the 
result  of  observations  on  the  variations  in  Lake  Erie; 
and  it  appears  that  the  whole  rise  is  only  from  1  h  to 
3  feet,  and  it  requires  several  months — sometimes 
much  more  time — for  the  water  to  ascend  even  that 
height.  One  important  fact  may  be  deduced  from 
this:  that  there  is  no  danger  of  overflow  on  the 
shores  of  the  Lake,  except  from  those  sudden  dashes 


92  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

made  by  a  storm;  and  that  is  injurious  only  at  the 
mouths  of  creeks  and  rivers,  where  the  water  accu- 
mulates. These  mouths  of  streams,  however,  are 
harbors,  generally  protected  by  artificial  works,  as 
we  see  here  at  Cleveland,  where  the  government  has 
secured  the  entrance  by  two  long  stone  piers. 

Farewell  to  Cleveland!  We  may  see  it  again, 
and  often;  but  some  of  us  will  see  it  no  more.  What 
a  miscellaneous  company  we  are  with  in  these  cars ! 
Some,  no  doubt,  are  familiar  with  this  road,  and  will 
frequently  pass  here ;  but  more  are  total  strangers, 
and  are  going  to  distant  regions,  whence  they  will 
never  return.  And  so  we  meet  once  in  the  brief 
journey  of  life,  and  look  upon  each  other's  faces, 
seen  no  more,  till  we  shall  meet  at  the  general  resur- 
rection! We  meet  like  ships  at  sea — crossing  each 
other  once  on  the  broad  ocean  of  time ;  thence  borne 
by  the  winds  to  distant  parts,  or,  may  be  in  the  deep 
waters  buried;  but  borne  quickly  and  forever  from 
sight.  We  meet,  like  two  little  waves  on  yon  broad 
Lake,  to  mingle  once,  then  beat  on  the  shore,  and 
disappear  forever ! 

Some  meet,  like  two  glad  stars,  rejoicing  in  their 
way,  and  parting  with  smiles.  Some  meet,  like  two 
dark  clouds,  made  sad  by  the  winds  of  sorrow,  and 
parting  in  tears.  But  all  part,  never  again  to  meet 
in  the  same  assembly.  Let  us  remember  this,  and 
do  what  we  can  to  make  the  passing  hours  agreeable. 


Cleveland  and  Erie  Railroad.  93 


We  are  human — let  us  be  humane.  Even  little 
things  are  of  consequence  in  the  aggregate  of  life ; 
and  the  little  service,  the  pleasant  smile,  the  cheerful 
word,  will  all  do  good,  and  be  remembered  in  the 
general  account  of  good  deeds  performed  on  earth. 
But  here  we  are.    Where  are  wTe  ? 

The  Cleveland  and  Erie  Railroad  is  now  before 
us.  It  is  95  miles  in  length,  and  is  run  by  two 
companies — one  from  Cleveland  to  the  Pennsylvania 
Line,  and  one  from  the  Line  to  Erie.  It  is  one  of 
the  pleasantest  roads  (at  any  rate  in  the  day  line), 
there  is  in  the  country.  At  first  we  follow  the 
shore  of  the  Lake,  under  the  town,  and  leaving  all 
its  pretty  streets,  and  fine  houses,  and  picturesque 
scenery  above  us.  But  we  have  got  the  Lake  before 
us,  and  that  is  a  grand  thing  in  itself.  See  yonder 
white  sailed  schooner — how  gracefully  she  bends  to 
the  gentle  wind,  and  looms  above  the  water!  She 
is  like  a  very  bird,  and  seems  the  Spirit  of  the  Lake. 
What  dark  thing  is  that,  as  far  off  as  you  can  see, 
almost?  Ah!  she  is  a  steamer — a  packet  from 
Detroit,  perhaps.  These  Lake  steamers  are  noble 
vessels — and  like  our  cars  here,  are  filled  up  with 
human  beings,  going  here  and  there,  up  and  down 
upon  the  earth.  What  in  this  world  takes  so  many 
people  all  over  the  country?  What  takes  you  and 
me?  I,  you  see,  am  just  here  to  watch  you  all,  and 
put  you  down  in  a  book.    But  what  are  yon  doing  ? 


94  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

Going  to  buy  goods?  To  see  Niagara?  To  visit 
your  old  parents  ?  To  visit  Babylon — that  is.  New 
York?  To  get  married?  To  mourn,  or  rejoice,  or 
what?  What  does  take  us  all  along  from  State  to 
State,  and  town  to  town?  I  will  venture  to  say 
you  are  all  on  a  different  errand — and  some  of  you 
to  very  strange  places.  I  once  was  going  along  this 
very  place,  and  met  a  young  man  who  seemed  to  be 
rather  high,  but  then  he  talked  straight,  and  he  walked 
straight ;  but  he  looked  wild — and  he  was  talking 
about  the  New  Jerusalem,  and  the  Millenium,  and 
Heaven.  He  was  going  to  the  Lunatic  Asylum.  I 
suppose  he  thought  more  of  religion  than  the  world 
in  general — and  the  world  being  the  majority,  said 
he  wras  insane. 

Another  time,  there  were  two  young  men  with 
handcuffs  on,  and  they  were  going  to  the  Peniten- 
tiary. Again  I  saw  a  man  who  was  Mghj  and  he 
jumped  off  the  cars — going  30  miles  an  hour — to 
get  low ;  and  when  we  left,  he  was  going  down  hill. 
Then  I  saw  a  girl  who  had  married  at  15,  with  a 
baby  at  her  breast — and  she  was  going  to  have  a  hard 
life.  Then  I  saw  another,  smiling  and  blushing — 
and  she  was  going  to  he  married ;  and  at  last,  I  saw 
one  clothed  in  black,  and  tears  upon  her  cheek. 
She  was  going  to  a  funeral  in  the  next  village.  Fi- 
nally, I  saw  a  slender  man,  whose  cheeks  were  sunk, 
whose  eye  was  glassy,  whose  heart  heaved  with  a 


Euclid  to  Willoughby. 


95 


cough — and  he  was  going  to  the  grave.  Then  there 
were  crowds  of  the  gay  and  happy — all  mingled  in 
the  passing  throng;  all  parts  of  the  great  moving 
caravan  of  humanity — all  hurrying  along  through 
their  brief  but  varied  hour. 

"No  more  of  this,  if  thou  lov'st  me,  Hal,"  says 
some  gay  traveler,  who  would  enjoy  the  passing 
hour;  and  he  is  right.  The  present  is  ours,  and  let 
us  enjoy  what  we  may,  and  learn  what  we  can. 

After  a  few  miles,  Ave  leave  the  Lake  shore,  and 
getting  on  the  general  plain,  pass  through  the  inte- 
rior— generally  two  or  three  miles  from  the  Lake. 

Euclid,  10  miles  from  Cleveland,  is  the  first  sta- 
tion east.  The  village  lies  a  mile  or  two  from  the 
station.  The  ownership  of  Euclid  arose  from  a 
strike  among  the  surveyor's  men.  They  demanded 
higher  wages;  and  General  Cleveland,  the  agent, 
finally  agreed  to  allow  them  a  pre-emption  of  a 
township  of  land,  at  an  agreed  price.  This  settled 
the  difficulty,  and  this  is  the  way  Euclid  was  pur- 
chased and  settled.  On  the  next  page,  is  a  view  of 
the  railway  bridge  over  Euclid  creek,  with  the  village 
in  the  distance. 

Wickliffe  Station,  4  miles  from  Euclid,  14  from 
Cleveland. 

Willoughby,  19  miles  from  Cleveland,  is  at  the 
crossing  of  Chagrin  River,  and  in  the  county  of 
Lake. 


96  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

Lake  County  was  formed  in  1840,  from  Geauga 
and  Cuyahoga  counties,  and  then  contained  13,717 
inhabitants.  In  1 850,  it  contained  14,654.  Having 
no  considerable  town,  except  Painesville,  and  the 
lands  being  already  occupied,  its  growth  is  slow. 
Yet  its  density  of  population — 70  to  a  square  mile — 
is  greater  than  that  of  the  State  generally. 

The  village  of  "Willoughby,  (originally  called  Cha- 
grin) is  called  from  Professor  Willoughby,  of  Herki- 
mer county,  New  York.  It  is  on  Chagrin  River,  2£ 
miles  from  its  mouth.  It  is  a  neat  and  pleasant  vil- 
lage— with  several  public  buildings,  built  in  the 
rural  style. 

Some  15  miles  south  of  this  town,  is  the  flourish- 
ing and  pretty  village  of  Chagrin  Falls.  In  this 
township,  there  is  a  fall  of  225  feet,  in  Chagrin 
River,  which  furnishes  power  for  extensive  machine- 
ry. It  has  a  population  of  1,250 — with  churches, 
schools,  stores  and  factories. 

Here,  again,  we  are  reminded  how  much  of  what 
was  has  disappeared  to  make  room  for  what  is. 
On  the  site  of  Chagrin  was  once  an  Indian  town,  and 
here  were  traces  of  their  mounds  and  forts.  Nor 
was  this  all.  Here  were  large  numbers  of  the  elk, 
along  this  Lake.  I  do  not  know  whether  the  buffa- 
lo were  here — probably  not,  for  they  are  accustomed 
to  the  prairies ;  but  they  were  abundant  in  Ohio.  So 
the  red  Indian,  the  elk,  the  buffalo,  the  bear,  the 


The  Mormons. 


97 


wolf,  all  of  human  or  animal,  which  once  inhabited 
this  beautiful  country,  have  disappeared.  They  are 
no  more  dwellers  here,  and  their  name,  and  charac- 
ter, and  history,  will  be  mysteries  and  antiquities  to 
coming  generations. 

But  a  stranger  people  yet,  one  of  whom  you  have 
heard,  and  will  hear  much,  were  here.  At  Willoughby 
we  are  about  four  miles  from  Kirtland  city,  and  the 
Mormon  Temple,  which  was  the  first  establishment 
of  the  Mormons  in  the  west.  Who  are  the  Mormons  ? 
The  Mormons,  you  are  aware,  now  inhabit  Utah  Ter- 
ritory, mostly  dwelling  near  the  Great  Salt  Lake. 
There  they  were  driven  by  persecutions  in  Illinois 
and  Missouri;  persecutions,  however,  which  were 
solely  occasioned  by  their  opposition  to  the  accus- 
tomed laws,  usages  and  religion  of  the  country. 
They  now  have  a  territory  to  themselves,  and  have 
adopted  and  practiced  the  Asiatic  custom  of  polyg- 
amy, contrary  alike  to  the  laws  of  God  and  to  the 
laws  of  the  United  States.  At  present  they  domi- 
nate, unopposed,  in  the  great  waste  territory  of 
Utah;  but  how  long  they  will  be  allowed  to  do  so,  is 
problematical. 

The  origin  and  progress  of  the  Mormons  make 
one  of  the  most  curious  chapters  in  the  whole  history 
of  delusion.  The  following  facts  seem  to  be  authen- 
tically proved:  The  Mormons  derive  their  name 
from  the  Book  of  Mormon,  which  they  say  was  trans- 
8 


98  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

lated.  from  gold  plates,  found  in  a  hill  near  Palmyra, 
New  York.  But  when  and  how  written  wras  this 
book  of  Mormon?  About  1809-10.  Solomon  Spald- 
ing, then  about  48  years  of  age,  and  who  was  born 
in  Connecticut,  removed  to  what  is  now  Lake  county, 
and  amazed  himself  with  writing  a  romance,  called 
the  "Manuscript  Found."  This  undertook  to  show 
that  the  American  Indians  were  descendants  of  the 
Jews — the  lost  tribes — and  gave  an  historical  ac- 
count of  them.  This  " Manuscript  Found"  was,  after 
Spalding's  death,  traced  to  a  printing  office  in  Pitts- 
burgh, but  not  printed.  About  1823-4,  Sidney  Rig- 
don,  one  of  the  earliest  preachers  of  Mormonism, 
came  to  Pittsburgh,  ostensibly  to  study  the  Bible. 
Soon  after,  Rigdon  commenced  preaching  some  new 
doctrines,  which  were  afterwards  found  to  be  in  the 
book  of  Mormon.  He  was  then  acquainted  with  Jo. 
Smith,  who  was  hunting  gold  mines  in  northern 
Pennsylvania.  The  Smith  family  then  announced 
that  a  book  had  been  discovered,  which  would  give 
an  account  of  the  origin  of  the  Indians.  Rigdon 
had  already  prepared  the  minds  of  many  persons  for 
the  reception  of  a  new  and  miraculous  book.  When 
printed,  the  book  was  immediately  carried  to  Rigdon, 
who  pretended  to  disbelieve  it — was  then  converted 
— repaired  to  Jo.  Smith,  and  was  appointed  elder, 
priest,  scribe  and  prophet.  But  what  was  this  new 
book?    Nothing  else  than  Spalding's  "Manuscript 


The  Mormons. 


99 


Found"!      John  Spalding,  Henry  Lake,  and  six 
other  witnesses,  testify  that  the  book  of  Mormon  is 
the  same,  or  nearly  the  same,  with  the  "  Manuscript 
Found,"  as  read  to  them  by  Spalding.    There  is  no 
doubt  upon  that  subject.    This  manuscript,  so  inno- 
cently written,  was  thus  fraudulently  put  forth  to 
ignorant  and  credulous  people,  as  a  new  revelation, 
and  has  ever  since,  and  quite  successfully,  been 
preached  as  such.    Its  disciples  call  themselves  the 
"Latter  day  Saints,"  and,  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
artful  leaders,  are  probably  as  sincere  as  the  believ- 
ers in  other  doctrines.    Most  of  them  are  a  very 
ignorant  people,  and  many  come  from  Europe — from 
Manchester  and  Wales.    We  can  readily  see  how 
such  might  easily  be  imposed  upon;  but  the  most 
remarkable  thing  about  this  imposture  is,  that  some 
of  its  disciples  are  from  the  most  intelligent  parts  of 
New  England,  and  have  received  some  education! 

I  recently  saw  in  a  newspaper  the  letter  of  a  New 
England  woman,  who  claims  to  be  the  wife  of  one 
Elder  Pratt  in  Utah,  to  her  sister  in  New  Hampshire. 
She  declines  visiting  her  relatives,  because  there 
is  such  a  difference  in  their  usages  and  customs ;  for 
example,  she  is  one  of  the  seven  wives  of  this  Orson 
Pratt,  who  delights  in  twenty-five  children,  and  is  yet 
in  middle  life.  She  thinks  it  is  a  capital  mode  of 
life — the  wives  dwelling  in  sisterly  love,  and  contrib- 
uting to  the  comfort  and  happiness  of  this  excellent 


100         The  Illustrated  Guide. 

man,  who  is  improving  on  American  manners  and 
morals,  by  imitating  the  old  patriarchs  of  Canaan 
and  Chaldea. 

In  this  state  of  things  there  arises  a  curious  ques- 
tion. Are  we  to  admit  Utah  as  a  State  of  the  Union, 
in  this  heathenish  condition?  Or,  when,  as  must  be 
the  case,  other  kinds  of  people  come  to  settle  in 
Utah,  are  they  likely  to  suffer  these  abominations 
any  more  than  they  did  in  Missouri  or  Illinois? 
Very  doubtful.    Let  time  determine. 

Painesville,  29  miles  from  Cleveland,  is  one  of  the 
principal  towns  of  northern  Ohio.  It  has  several 
churches,  stores,  schools,  printing  office,  bank,  and 
near  2000  inhabitants.  It  was  named  from  General 
Edward  Paine,  an  officer  of  the  Revolution. 

Painesville  is  the  county  seat  of  Lake  county,  and 
is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  villages  of  this  part  of 
Ohio.  It  lies  on  Grand  River,  which  skirts  the  vil- 
lage on  the  east,  in  a  deep  and  picturesque  valley. 
The  village  is  scattered,  with  cultivated  gardens, 
ornamental  trees  and  shrubbery.  A  public  square, 
adorned  with  trees,  contains  the  public  buildings. 

One  of  the  earty  settlers  of  Painesville  was  Sam- 
uel Huntington,  second  Governor  of  the  State,  and 
a  native  of  Connecticut.  He  was  a  man  of  high 
character,  and  one  of  the  early  pioneers  of  the  Re- 
serve. He  originally  settled  at  Cleveland,  where  he 
met  with  a  singular  adventure.    This  part  of  the 


Pine  Region. 


101 


country  was  then  full  of  wild  beasts.  I  have  men- 
tioned the  bear  and  the  elk;  but  the  most  common 
of  the  really  savage  was  the  wolf  One  night,  in 
returning  home,  Huntington  was  attacked  by  a  fero- 
cious pack,  on  which  he  broke  his  umbrella  to  pieces, 
and  only  escaped  by  the  fleetness  of  his  horse.  The 
only  animal  now  to  attack  the  traveler,  is  some  old 
ram,  who  might  possibly  assault  the  locomotive,  in 
the  simplicity  of  his  ignorance!  Sheep  have  sup- 
planted wolves,  and  cattle  the  bears. 

We  are  now  three  miles  from  the  Lake,  and  will 
seldom  come  in  sight  of  it.  At  the  mouth  of  Grand 
River  is  Fairport,  a  Lake  harbor  of  considerable  im- 
portance. It  has  a  number  of  warehouses  and  stores. 
The  harbor  is  an  excellent  one,  and  vessels  can  make 
Fairport  when  they  can  hardly  reach  any  other  port. 

Perry  Station  is  35  miles  from  Cleveland. 

The  Railway  is  very  seldom  in  sight  of  the  Lake, 
and  generally  passes  through  woods.  As  we  go 
through  this  portion  of  the  road,  into  Ashtabula 
county,  and  Pennsylvania,  we  shall  often  meet  with 
pine  trees,  whose  straight  trunks  and  deep  green 
contrast  strongly  with  the  common  forest  trees  of 
Ohio.  We  are  approaching  now  the  borders  of  a 
very  large  district,  in  which  the  pine  predominates. 
From  the  shores  of  Lake  Erie,  in  eastern  Ohio,  and 
in  Pennsylvania  and  New  York,  far  into  the  interior, 
on  the  head  waters  of  the  Allegheny,  the  Genesee, 


102         The  Illustrated  Guide. 

the  Chemung,  and  the  Susquehanna,  the  pine  tree  is 
everywhere  the  principal  object  in  the  forest.  The 
New  York  and  Erie  Railroad  passes  200  miles 
through  this  pine  region,  and  every  year  immense 
quantities  of  this  lumber  are  shipped  from  various 
points  on  the  Allegheny,  the  Genesee  and  the  Sus- 
quehanna, This  region  has  been  almost  the  only 
source  of  supply  for  pine  lumber  for  the  upper  Ohio. 
In  past  years,  Cincinnati  has  been  supplied  with 
boards  and  shingles  from  the  Allegheny.  They  were 
floated  down  in  rafts  in  the  spring,  when  the  waters 
were  high.  In  the  month  of  April,  the  shores  of  the 
Ohio  at  Cincinnati,  have  sometimes  been  lined  for 
miles  with  rafts  of  pine  lumber.  How  long  the  Alle- 
gheny and  Genesee  country  may  be  able  to  continue 
this  supply,  is  doubtful.  Already  a  great  deal  of 
lumber  is  brought  to  Cincinnati  by  canal,  from  Mich- 
igan; and  I  have  no  doubt  the  time  will  come  when 
nearly  all  the  pine  lumber  required  for  Cincinnati, 
will  be  brought  from  Michigan  and  Wisconsin  by 
railway.  Many  persons  have  doubted  whether  even 
coal  could  be  carried  by  rail;  but  that  doubt  is  gone 
— so  it  soon  will  be  about  lumber.  Railways  are 
gradually  working  out  a  great  social  revolution;  and 
they  will  accomplish  more  than  is  now  dreamed  of. 

Madison  Station  is  40,  miles  from  Cleveland.  We 
are  about  4  v  miles  from  the  Lake,  and  2  miles  from 
Grand  River,  wdiidi  for  many  miles  is  nearly  paral- 


"Little  Mountain.''  103 

lei  to  the  Lake.  We  are  still  in  Lake  county,  which 
is  properly  named  from  the  Lake,  whose  shores  it 
hugs  for  nearly  forty  miles. 

I  omitted  to  mention,  that  in  this  county,  and  sev- 
eral miles  south  of  Painesville,  is  "  Little  Mountain" 
— one  of  those  natural  anomalies,  which  sometimes 
occur,  to  relieve  and  refresh  what  might  otherwise 
be  a  monotonous  surface.  It  is  a  small,  abrupt  emi- 
nence— about  200  feet  in  height — from  whose  sum- 
mit is  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the  surrounding  coun- 
try, and  of  Lake  Erie  in  the  distance.  There  is  a 
hotel  on  the  summit — which  is  a  favorite  resort  in 
the  summer.  A  cool  breeze  blows  from  the  Lake, 
while  the  earth  below  is  clothed  in  verdure  and  beau- 
ty. Such  a  place  would  make  a  fine  resting  spot 
for  a  wearied  traveler,  and  be  a  novelty  in  the  jour- 
ney of  life.  How  curious  it  is,  that  we  are  all  rush- 
ing on  to  get  by  everything — however  desirable  or 
beautiful — as  fast  as  possible,  when,  by  resting  a 
few  hours  here  and  there,  we  might  enjoy  all  the 
loveliness  of  Nature,  and  refresh  our  wearied  spirits, 
and  visit  new  scenes.  Alas !  it  is  the  toil,  and  not 
the  beauty  of  life,  we  seek.  It  is  well  to  make  a 
pleasure  of  business ;  but  not  so  well  to  make  a  toil 
of  pleasure.  Come,  let  us  hasten  on.  You  will  not 
thank  me  for  my  sermon,  and  I  will,  perhaps,  be  as 
little  profited  myself.    We  shall  rattle  on  to  the  end. 

Unionville,  42  miles  from  Cleveland,  is  on  the 


104         The  Illustrated  Guide. 

line  of  Lake  and  Ashtabula  counties.  It  is  a  small 
village,  with  two  churches,  and  about  500  inhabi- 
tants. 

Ashtabula  County — "Old  Ashtabula" — is  the 
northeastern  county  of  Ohio — and  we  here  cross 
the  line  wThich  separates  it  from  Lake.  Its  name  is 
derived  from  that  of  the  river  Ashtabula — which 
signifies  in  the  Indian  tongue,  Fish  River. 

This  county  is  the  first  settled  on  the  Reserve, 
and  the  earliest  in  all  Northern  Ohio.  It  was  on  the 
4th  of  July,  1796 — -just  twenty  years  after  the 
declaration  of  independence — that  the  first  survey- 
ing party  of  the  Western  Reserve.,  landed  at  the 
mouth  of  Conneaut  creek.  The  party  numbered 
fifty-two  persons,  of  whom  two  were  women — Mrs. 
Stiles,  and  Mrs.  Greene.  In  the  party,  was  Moses 
Cleveland,  from  whom  that  city  was  named.  They 
landed  like  the  Pilgrims  at  Plymouth,  on  a  new  and 
wild  shore,  and  theirs  were  the  life  and  toils  of  the 
pioneers. 

It  was  the  4th  of  July,  and  as  it  was  the  nation's 
birthday,  as  well  as  the  birth  of  this  settlement,  they 
felt  like  celebrating  this  double  event  as  best  they 
could;  and  so,  patriotically,  though  very  simply,  did 
they  manifest  their  rejoicing.  u  Mustering  their 
numbers,"  says  Mr.  Barr,  "they  sat  them  down  on 
the  eastward  shore  of  the  stream,  now  known  as 
Conneaut,  and  dipping  from  the  Lake  the  liquor  in 


Geneva  Station. 


105 


which  they  pledged  their  country — their  goblets, 
some  tin  caps  of  no  rare  workmanship — with  the 
ordnance  accompaniment  of  two  or  three  fowling 
pieces,  discharging  the  required  national  salute,  the 
first  settlers  of  the  Reserve  spent  their  landing  day 
as  became  the  sons  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers — as  the 
advance  pioneers  of  a  population  that  has  since 
made  the  then  wilderness  of  Northern  Ohio  to  blos- 
som as  the  rose,  and  prove  the  homes  of  a  peo- 
ple— remarkable  for  integrity,  industry,  and  love  of 
country." 

The  next  day — 5th  of  July — they  erected  a  large 
log  building,  which  served  as  a  storehouse  and 
dwelling. 

Geneva  Station,  46  miles  from  Cleveland.  We 
are  now  winding  through  the  agricultural  townships 
of  Ashtabula.  This  district  is  as  distinguished,  and 
deservedly  so,  for  those  products  which  are  derived 
from  pasturage  and  cattle,  as  any  other  in  the  Uni- 
ted States. 

We  see  but  little  of  it  from  the  cars;  but  we  can 
readily  see  from  the  quality  of  the  land,  and  the 
character  of  the  woods,  that  pasture  tillage  is  the 
proper  culture  for  this  region.  The  peculiar  district 
for  butter,  cheese,  and  wool,  is  that  immediately 
around  us;  comprising  the  counties  of  Ashtabula, 
Portage,  and  Trumbull.  The  quantities  of  these 
articles  exported  are  enormous;  exceeding  all  be- 


105         The  Illustrated  Guide. 

lief,  if  the  statistics  be  not  examined.  From  the 
port  of  Cincinnati,  270  miles  southwest,  140,000 
boxes  of  cheese  are  exported,  most  of  which  comes 
from  these  counties.  At  Cleveland,  there  arrives 
annually  2,000,000  pounds  of  butter;  1,000,000 
pounds  of  cheese,  and  1,200,000  pounds  of  wool — a 
large  portion  of  which  comes  from  this  district. 
Indeed  this  whole  quarter  of  the  State  is  chiefly 
devoted  to  cattle  and  sheep;  and  furnishes  a  large 
part  of  the  products  of  those  animals  exported. 

In  this  pastoral  state,  the  people,  although  very 
intelligent,  live  simple,  quiet,  sober  lives — not  led 
astray  by  the  pleasures  and  dissipations  of  the  city. 
Here,  if  any  where,  we  may  expect  to  find  the 
country  maiden  described  by  Gay: 

"What  happiness  the  rural  niaicl  attends, 
In  cheerful  labor  while  each  day  she  spends ! 
She  gratefully  receives  what  Heaven  has  sent, 
And  rich  in  poverty,  enjoys  content. 
(Such  happiness,  and  such  unblemish'd  fame, 
Ne'er  glad  the  bosom  of  the  courtly  dame): 
She  never  feels  the  spleen's  imagin'd  pains, 
Nor  melancholy  stagnates  in  her  veins ; 
She  never  loses  life  in  thoughtless  ease, 
Nor  on  the  velvet  couch  invites  disease ; 
Her  home-spun  dress,  in  simple  neatness  lies, 
And  for  no  glaring  equipage  she  sighs ; 
No  midnight  masquerade  her  beauty  wears, 
And  health,  not  paint,  the  fading  bloom  repairs. 
If  love's  soft  passion  in  her  bosom  reign, 
An  equal  passion  warms  her  happy  swain ; 


Saybrooke. 


107 


No  home-bred  jars  her  quiet  state  control, 

Nor  watchful  jealousy  torments  her  soul; 

With  secret  joy  she  sees  her  little  race 

Hang  on  her  breast,  and  her  small  cottage  grace ; 

The  fleecy  ball  their  busy  fingers  cull, 

Or  from  the  spindle  draw  the  lengthening  wool : 

Then  flow  her  hours  with  constant  peace  of  mind, 

Till  age  the  latest  thread  of  life  unwind." 

This  picture  is  not  a  forced  or  unnatural  one. 
Thousands  of  our  farmers'  daughters  in  these  quiet 
rural  districts,  are  brought  up  with  this  simplicity, 
innocence,  and  industry.  Let  us  hope  that  in  after 
times,  these  scenes  and  characters  may  not  be  de- 
spised in  the  pleasures  of  fashion  and  magnificence  of 
wealth. 

Saybrooke,  50  miles  from  Cleveland.  We  are 
still  passing  through  the  u  rural  districts."  Say- 
brooke is  doubtless  named  from  old  Saybrook,  at  the 
mouth  of  Connecticut  River;  and  that  was  named 
from  Lords  Say  and  Brooke — two  of  the  grantees 
under  one  of  Charles  the  IPs  charters.  Names  are 
curious  things.  I  could  write  an  interesting  chap- 
ter on  names.  There  is  a  whole  code  of  philosophy 
and  morals,  and  withal,  a  most  singular  history 
connected  with  names.  Some  names  are  plain 
enough — such  as  the  Smiths,  who  were  undoubtedly 
named  from  their  trade.  Then  comes  a  whole  series 
of  colors — such  as  Brown,  White,  Black,  Blue,  Orange, 
and  all  other  kinds  of  color.    Then  there  come  com- 


108         The  Illustrated  Guide. 

pounds  of  these,  which  are  quite  curious.  There  is 
Mr.  Red-ding,  Mr.  Red-head,  Mr.  Red-dish,  Mr.  Red- 
heifer,  Mr.  Red-dington,  &c.  Then  there  conies  the 
whole  list  of  sons — which  are  probably  most  numer- 
ous. Such  as  Mr.  John-son,  Mr.  Robert-son,  Mr. 
William-son,  Mr.  Smith-son,  Mr.  Brown-son,  &c. 
But  there  are  others,  which  defy  all  derivation,  and 
evidently  were  given  in  fancy's  freak.  There  is  Mr. 
Pancake,  Mr.  Pepper,  Mr.  Wolfe,  &c.  These  gentle- 
men have  reason  to  speak  ill  of  ancient  dignities, 
and  ancestral  honors;  for  they  evidently  belong  to 
the  class  who  had  no  grandfathers.  They  are  very 
worthy  people,  as  I  know ;  but  they  do  not  belong 
to  the  descendants  of  the  feudal  Barons.  Well,  it  is 
no  matter.  Names  are  not  much,  any  how.  Of  that 
truth,  we  have  a  signal  example  in  the  names  of  our 
colored  brethren — who  flourish  as  Caesar,  Cato,  and 
Pompey.  What  is  fame?  a  breath  in  other's  mouths. 
Where  is  Cato?  Where  is  Pompey?  Why,  just  no 
where.  These  colored  persons  are  greater  than  they; 
for  they  have  something  yet  vital  about  them. 

But  we  must  hurry  on.  We  have  been  through 
London  to-day,  and  to-morrow  we  must  go  through 
Rome,  Palmyra,  Venice,  and  Utica.  What  a  revival 
of  the  ancients  on  these  green  fields  of  the  moderns ! 
But  what  of  it?  These  towns  will  grow  just  as  fast 
and  be  just  as  bright  and  important  to  this  Republic, 
as  if  old  Palmyra  had  never  fallen  into  ruins ;  nor 


Ashtabula. 


109 


seven-hilled  Rome  ever  declined.  It  is  the  youth  of 
the  Republic;  and  Nature,  this  green  Nature,  so 
rich  and  beautiful,  is  ever  fair.  Thus,  when  Byron 
had  wandered  through  the  ruins  of  Greece,  he  ex- 
claimed : 

Still  in  thy  sun,  Mendelis'  marbles  glare  ; 

Art,  glory,  freedom  fail,  but  Nature  still  is  fair ! 

But  what  is  a  name  ?  Let  us  hurry  on,  and  catch 
up  with  Time,  which  has  been  flying  ahead,  while 
we  were  talking. 

Ashtabula,  55  miles  from  Cleveland.  Well,  here 
we  are,  on  Ashtabula  creek.  Ashtabula  is  a  neat 
village,  with  pleasant  aspect.  It  has  several  church- 
es, and  the  usual  proportion  of  stores,  and  a  popula- 
tion of  about  1,000. 

We  are  here  2!  miles  from  Ashtabula  Harbor,  the 
mouth  of  Ashtabula  Creek.  The  Lake  steamers  gen- 
erally stop  here,  and  a  considerable  shipping  busi- 
ness is  carried  on.  Several  vessels  are  owned  here, 
and  it  is  one  of  the  principal  Lake  ports  within  the 
district  of  Cuyahoga. 

Ashtabula  received  a  severe  shock  in  the  loss  of 
the  Washington  steamer,  which  wras  owned  here. 
She  was  burned  off  Silver  Creek  in  June,  1838,  and 
about  40  lives  lost.  This  misfortune  has  a  melan- 
choly interest,  from  the  circumstances  attending  it. 
Fire  is  always  a  terrible  element ;  but  a  fire  in  a  ves- 
sel at  sea — how  terrible ! 


110 


The  Illustrated  Guide. 


The  Washington  had  left  Cleveland  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  a  little  after  midnight,  when  off  Silver 
Creek,  was  discovered  to  be  on  fire.  From  a  deep 
sleep  the  passengers  were  alarmed  by  the  awful  cry 
of — fire !  Then  ensued  a  scene  of  indescribable  con- 
fusion and  distress ;  but,  while  there  was  a  chance  of 
putting  out  the  flames,  hope  still  whispered  in  their 
ears.  But  alas !  for  its  delusion.  The  fire  triumphed ; 
the  flames  rose  high,  above  all  effort  to  suppress 
them,  and  then  dark  despair  seized  upon  their  be- 
wildered minds,  and  some  plunged  into  the  waves, 
and  some  seized  boards  and  jumped  over,  and  some 
remained  to  be  burnt  up  in  the  wreck.  Then  rose 
the  wTail  of  mothers  and  children,  of  sisters,  husbands, 
fathers,  and  was  borne  over  the  dark  waters. 

Ah !  few  shall  part  where  many  meet ; 
The  wave  shall  be  their  winding  sheet: 
And  ev'ry  billow  on  the  shore 
Shall  their  sad  loss  in  grief  deplore. 

The  small  boat  saved  25  persons.  Other  small 
boats  came  off,  and  a  few  more  wrere  saved.  But, 
after  making  all  allowance,  it  is  known  that  at  least 
40  perished. 

The  accidents  to  steamboats  on  Lake  Erie  have 
been  quite  severe;  but  still,  so  beautiful  is  the 
scenery  of  the  Lake,  in  a  clear  day,  and  so  cozy 
and  pleasant  is  that  mode  of  conveyance,  that  many 
persons  still  tempt  the  hazards  of  fire  and  storm. 


C  ONNEAUT. 


Ill 


But  here  we  are,  on  the  Lake  Shore  Railroad,  and 
whatever  else  happens  to  us,  Ave  shall  not  he  drowned 
in  the  Lake.  On  the  whole,  railways  are  the  safest 
of  all  modes  of  conveyance  yet  discovered,  unless  we 
except  canal  boats — which  may  the  angels  save  us 
from  !    Here  we  go  again ;  hurry — scurry— fly ! 

Kings ville — 61  miles  from  Cleveland.  The  vil- 
lage is  a  little  to  the  south  of  the  Railroad.  It  is  a 
pleasant  town,  with  several  churches,  and  500  inhab- 
itants. It  is  one  of  a  large  class  of  villages  which 
here,  as  in  New  England,  may  be  found  scattered 
over  the  face  of  a  rural  country. 

C onneaut,  68  miles  from  Cleveland,  is  rather  an 
important  place,  being  in  the  extreme  north-east  of 
Ohio,  and  a  considerable  Lake  port.  It  is  300  miles 
from  Cincinnati,  on  a  straight  line,  and  320  miles  by 
Railway,  being  on  one  extreme  of  a  diagonal  line 
across  the  State.  It  is  situated  on  Conneaut  Creek,  a 
stream  having  a  good  deal  of  water  power,  and  on 
which  there  are  many  mills  and  factories. 

Conneaut  Borough  has  several  churches,  and  about 
1000  inhabitants.  The  port  of  Conneaut  has  a  light- 
house and  several  warehouses.  It  is  the  entrepot  for 
the  landing  of  supplies  and  the  shipping  of  produce 
for  a  large  and  fertile  agricultural  region,  not  only 
of  the  adjacent  country  in  Ohio,  but  of  an  important 
section  of  Pennsylvania. 


112         The  Illustrated  Guide. 

On  the  opposite  side  is  a  view  of  the  bridge  oyer 
Conneaut  Creek. 

Conneaut  has  been  called  the  "Plymouth  of  Ohio;" 
for  here,  as  we  have  before  stated,  was  the  first  land- 
ing, as  we  may  say,  of  the  pilgrims  to  the  "Western 
Reserve,"  in  1796.  The  spot  where  Conneaut  port 
is,  wras  then  a  mere  sand  beach,  overgrown  with 
timber. 

The  early  settlers  say  the  harbors  on  the  Lakes 
were  in  those  days  frequently  choked  up  with  sand. 
The  mouths  of  the  streams  were  continually  shifting, 
until  the  artificial  harbors  were  built.  These  im- 
provements have,  in  a  great  measure,  remedied  those 
evils,  and  made  the  mouths  of  the  streams  far  more 
healthy. 

The  first  permanent  settlement  of  Conneaut  was 
made  in  1799.  The  spot  was  then  inhabited  by  the 
Massauga  tribe  of  Indians,  who  were  afterwards 
obliged  to  leave,  in  consequence  of  the  murder  of  a 
white  man.  This  spot  was  likewise  the  scene  of  an 
act  of  maiden  generosity  not  inferior  to  that  of  Poca- 
hontas. Two  young  men  taken  in  St.  Clair's  defeat, 
were  brought  prisoners  to  this  village.  They  were 
obliged  to  run  the  gauntlet,  and  having  been  kicked 
and  cuffed,  it  was  solemnly  decided  that  one  should 
be  saved,  but  the  other  should  be  burned.  He 
was  tied  to  a  tree,  and  hickory  bark  tied  into  fag- 
gots and  piled  around  him.    Just  then  a  young 


CONNEAUT. 


113 


squaw,  touched  with  sympathy,  sprang  forward,  and 
interceded  for  him.  She  urgently  expostulated,  and 
by  the  aid  of  some  furs,  succeeded  in  delivering  him. 
We  have  not  her  name,  but  the  fame  of  this  lovely 
maiden  should  mingle  in  history  with  that  of  the 
virtuous  in  every  age.  The  story  ends  with  this 
heroic  deed  5  and  whether  there  was  any  episode  of 
romance  connected  with  it,  wTe  know  not.  But  we 
are  quite  sure  our  young  readers  will  imagine  there 
was.  One  thing  we  are  certain  of,  that  the  young 
man  must  have  been  without  either  love  or  gratitude, 
if  he  did  not  offer  his  hand  and  heart,  and  lay  what- 
ever of  fortune  he  might  hope  for,  at  the  maiden's  feet. 
What  if  her  skin  was  tanned,  and  her  mind  unlearned ! 
her  soul  was  as  pure,  her  life  as  innocent,  as  though  she 
had  graced  the  dwellings  of  the  high  and  honorable. 

It  wras  at  Conneaut  occurred  an  adventure  on  the 
water  which  has  perhaps  never  been  surpassed  in 
perils  anywhere.  It  is  told  in  Howe's  Ohio.  Mr. 
Solomon  Sweetland  had  been  accustomed,  by  the 
aid  of  a  neighbor — Mr.  Connies — and  a  few  hounds, 
to  drive  deer  into  the  Lake,  where,  pursuing  them 
with  a  canoe,  he  easily  shot  them.  In  September, 
1817,  on  a  lovely  autumn  morning,  Sweetland  rose 
at  daw7n,  and,  without  putting  on  coat  or  waistcoat, 
left  his  cabin,  and  impatiently  waited  for  the  dogs. 
Soon  his  ears  heard  their  deep  baying;  and,  arrived 
at  the  beach,  he  perceived  a  deer  had  already  taken 
9 


114         The  Illustrated  Guide. 

to  the  water,  and  was  some  distance  from  the  shore. 
He  threw  his  hat  on  the  beach,  took  to  his  canoe,  and 
hurried  after  in  animated  pursuit.  The  wind,  which 
wras  from  the  south,  had  increased  in  the  night,  and 
now  blew  quite  strong;  but  Sweetland  forgot  the 
danger  in  the  excitement  of  the  hunt.  The  deer 
hoisted  his  tail  in  defiance,  and  stoutly  breasting  the 
waves,  showed  that  in  a  race  with  a  canoe,  the  event 
was  not  certain.  When  Sweetland  overtook  him,  he 
first  became  aware  of  his  situation;  for  the  deer 
turning,  shot  past  him  towards  the  shore ;  and  he 
tacking,  discovered  that  he  could  make  no  progress 
towards  the  shore,  but  was  continually  drifted  farther 
to  sea!  *  Now  came  a  time  of  fearful  trial  to  himself 
and  friends.  He  had  been  seen  by  Mr.  Connies  and 
his  family,  from  the  shore,  as  he  gradually  disap- 
peared from  sight.  In  vain  did  three  of  his  neigh- 
bors generously  put  off  in  a  light  boat  to  his  rescue. 
In  vain  did  they  search  the  raging  waters.  The  deer 
was  seen  returning  to  the  shore,  but  the  man  was 
lost  from  sight.  Where  was  Sweetland?  The  canoe 
was  a  large  one,  dug  out  from  a  fishing  boat,  and  was 
considered  a  superior  one  of  its  kind.  Sweetland 
continued  to  head  towards  the  land,  in  the  faint  hope 
that  the  wind  might  abate,  or  aid  come  to  his  relief. 
One  or  two  schooners  came  in  sight,  but  he  signaled 
them  in  vain.  The  shore  continued  in  sight,  and  on 
its  distant  outline,  he  could  trace  the  spot  where 


CONNEAUT. 


115 


stood  his  cabin  and  his  loved  ones ;  but  in  vain  he 
struggled  to  near  them.  At  last  these  familiar  ob- 
jects receded  from  his  sight,  and  sunk,  and  the  shores 
sunk  below  the  troubled  waters.  He  was  alone  on 
the  stormy  deep !  His  frail  canoe  alone  upheld  him, 
and  the  spirit  of  the  tempest  alone  uttered  its  voice 
in  his  ear! 

One  only  chance  remained — and  as  he  was  a  good 
sailor,  with  a  cool  head  and  stout  heart,  he  seized 
upon  that.  This  was  to  put  the  boat  before  the 
wind,  and  strike  for  the  Canada  shore,  fifty  miles  off! 
It  was  now  blowing  a  gale,  and  he  was  borne  towards 
the  shore  with  fearful  power.  He  was  obliged  to 
stand  much  of  the  time  to  steady  and  guide  the 
boat;  and  he  was  obliged  sometimes  to  bale  with  a 
pair  of  shoes !  Then  came  the  night,  and  its  shad- 
ows gathered  round  him.  The  sky  was  overcast, 
and  only  here  and  there  a  twinkling  star  sent  its 
ray  through  the  darkness.  Destitute  of  food  and 
clothing,  he  was  thus  rocked  upon  the  billows,  in 
that  long  and  dreary  night.  At  morning  he  saw  the 
shore,  and  found  he  had  made  Long  Point,  Canada.. 
Here  he  had  an  adverse  wind  and  cross  sea  %  but  the 
merciful  Providence  which  had  guided  him  so  far, 
enabled  him  to  land.  But  his  trials  were  not  ended. 
He  was  forty  miles  from  any  settlement — and  the 
way  lay  through  marshes  and  thickets.  Still,  with  a 
stout  heart — though  weary  and  faint — he  managed 


116         The  Illustrated  Guide. 

to  crawl  on,  till  he  arrived  at  the  habitations  of  men. 
On  his  way,  he  found  a  quantity  of  goods — the  re- 
mains of  some  wreck — which,  after  he  got  refreshed 
and  strengthened,  he  brought  off,  and  thus  made  an 
accession  to  his  little  fortune.  He  proceeded  to 
Buffalo,  and  thence  by  vessel  to  Conneaut — where 
he  found  his  funeral  sermon  had  been  preached,  and 
he  had  the  rare  privilege  of  seeing  his  oivn  widow  in 
mourning  for  him! 

Farewell  to  Ohio  !  Green  buckeye  land,  we  must 
leave  thee  for  a  time.  Rich  are  thy  fields,  and 
pleasant  thy  homes — long  shall  we  remember  thee 
when  far  away! 

Pennsylvania,  Hail!  The  Pennsylvania  line  is 
70  miles  from  Cleveland,  and  here  we  enter  the  Key- 
stone State.  Pennsylvania  is  one  of  the  oldest  and 
most  interesting  of  the  States.  You  know  that  it 
was  settled  first  by  William  Penn  and  his  Friends, 
(as  the  Quakers  always  call  themselves),  at  Phila- 
delphia; but  then  that  was  long  before  the  settlement 
of  this  northwest  corner — and  it  was  also  a  very  dif- 
ferent kind  of  immigration.  In  this  part  of  the 
State,  there  was  no  such  quiet  and  peaceful  progress 
as  was  made  at  Philadelphia.  On  the  contrary,  it 
was  a  scene  of  trouble  and  conflict — as  Indians, 
French,  English,  and  Irish,  alternately  held  sway. 
I  say  Irish,  because  after  the  English  prevailed  over 
the  French,  the  principal  immigrants  to  Pittsburgh, 


Pennsylvania. 


117 


and  all  the  surrounding  counties,  were  the  Scotch- 
Irish,  or  those  from  the  north  of  Ireland,  which,  after 
Cromwell's  Conquest,  was  settled  by  the  Scotch. 

The  northwestern  part  of  Pennsylvania  was  first 
stationed — not  settled — by  the  French,  who  built 
Fort  Du  Quesne,  at  Pittsburgh,  a  fort  at  Presque 
Isle,  (now  Erie)  and  others  on  French  creek.  At 
that  time,  however,  the  Indians  were  still  the  pro- 
prietors of  all  the  lands  west  of  the  Alleghanies,  and 
the  French  only  held  a  line  of  posts  on  the  Ohio,  the 
Lakes  and  their  tributaries.  From  these  posts  they 
were  ultimately  driven  by  the  English;  but  it  is 
difficult  to  tell  exactly  when  the  first  permanent 
settlers  came  to  this  district. 

We  are  now  entering  Erie  county,  through  which 
runs  French  creek,  and  on  which  was  the  scene  of 
the  earliest  adventures  of  George  Washington.  In 
1753,  Governor  Dinwiddie  of  Virginia,  having  dis- 
covered that  the  French  were  establishing  posts  on 
the  Ohio,  and  being  unable  to  obtain  accurate  infor- 
mation by  his  messengers,  selected  a  young  surveyor, 
who  at  the  age  of  nineteen  had  received  the  rank  of 
Major,  and  who  was  inured  to  hardships  and  wood- 
land ways — while  his  courage,  judgment,  and  firm 
will,  all  fitted  him  for  such  a  mission.  This  young 
man  was  George  Washington,  then  but  twenty-one 
years  and  eight  months  old.  He  left  Williamsburg 
with  a  Mr.  Gist  for  his  guide,  and  arrived  at  Wills 


118         The  Illustrated  Guide. 

creek,  where  Cumberland  now  is,  on  the  15th  of 
November,  and  on  the  22d,  reached  the  Mononga- 
hela.  Thence  he  went  to  Logtown,  and  held  long 
conferences  with  the  chiefs  of  the  Six  Nations,  living 
in  the  neighborhood.  Finding  the  French  and  Indi- 
ans above  would  not  come  down  to  meet  him,  he 
proceeded  to  their  forts.  Traveling  in  cold  and  rain, 
he  reached  Venango,  at  the  mouth  of  French  creek, 
on  the  4th  of  November.  This  was  an  old  Indian 
town,  and  here  he  found  the  French — who  with  rum 
and  flattery  had  very  nearly  seduced  the  friendly 
Indians  who  went  with  him  from  Logtown.  Patience 
and  good  faith,  however,  conquered,  and  after  another 
rough  time,  through  snow,  rain,  and  cold,  he  reached 
the  fort  on  French  creek.  This  was  only  fifteen 
miles  from  the  present  Erie.  Here  he  wras  politely 
told  by  the  French  commander,  that  the  demand  of 
Governor  Dinwiddie  to  evacuate  the  forts,  could  not 
be  complied  with.  The  shrewdness  and  capacity  of 
Washington,  as  a  military  man,  was  even  then  quite 
conspicuous.  He  took  accurate  note  of  the  fort,  arma- 
ment, men,  provisions,  &c,  and  communicated  them 
to  his  government.  In  the  same  expedition,  he  also 
observed  the  admirable  situation  of  the  junction  of 
the  Allegheny  and  the  Monongahela — and  at  his 
recommendation  a  fort  was  built  there. 

On  his  return,  young  Washington  suffered  severely, 
and  very  nearly  lost  his  life.    He  left  his  friendly 


Erie  County. 


119 


Indians,  and  with  Gist  set  out  on  foot  for  Wills 
creek.  Accepting  the  guidance  of  an  Indian,  he 
was  betrayed  and  shot  at.  In  the  midst  of  winter, 
they  came  to  the  Allegheny,  expecting  to  cross  on 
the  ice,  but  wrere  disappointed,  and  compelled  to 
make  a  raft  with  a  single  hatchet.  Nearly  frozen, 
they  were  thrown  upon  a  desert  island.  The  ice 
fortunately  made  that  night,  hard  enough  to  bear 
them,  and  they  escaped  to  the  main  land.  Thus, 
through  hardships  and  dangers,  Washington  returned 
safe  to  Williamsburg.  It  was  in  such  a  school  of 
bodily,  as  well  as  moral  and  intellectual  training, 
that  Providence  was  gradually  fitting  Washington 
to  become  the  Man  of  the  Revolution. 

Erie  County,  in  which  we  are,  comprehends  the 
whole  of  that  portion  of  Pennsylvania,  bordering  on 
the  Lake.  The  Lake  shore  of  Pennsylvania  is  about 
50  miles — thus  giving  her,  like  New  York,  a  terri- 
tory extending  from  the  Ocean  to  the  Lakes.  This 
is  peculiar  to  these  two  States,  and  a  great  advan- 
tage. Erie  county  contains  nearly  40,000  inhabit- 
ants— raises  a  large  quantity  of  grain  and  potatoes ; 
but  deals  chiefly  in  cattle  and  sheep — pasturage 
being  everywhere  the  principal  element  of  Lake- 
shore  farming. 

Springfield  Station  is  76  miles  from  Cleveland. 
The  town  is  to  the  south  of  the  railroad.  It  is  a 
small  village,  with  several  stores  and  mills. 


120         The  Illustrated  Guide. 

The  scenery  of  the  Lake  shore  varies  but  little. 
We  pass  no  high  hills,  and  the  varieties  of  surface 
are  produced  almost  altogether  by  the  rivers,  creeks, 
and  ravines,  which  terminate  in  the  Lake.  The 
shores  of  Lake  Erie,  have,  as  a  residence,  however, 
some  great  advantages.  The  land  is  generally  level; 
the  air  cool  and  bracing;  the  temperature  not  severe ; 
the  scenery,  like  that  of  the  Ocean,  grand  and  vari- 
ous— at  one  time  like  a  transparent  mirror,  reflect- 
ing the  light  sails  of  the  water  craft,  and  shining  in 
the  dazzling  rays  of  the  sun;  at  another  clothed  in 
the  gloomy  grandeur  of  the  storm;  at  another  mixed 
with  all  the  elements  of  sun  and  shade,  of  clouds 
and  sky,  of  curling  waves  and  of  moving  vessels. 

It  wras  a  remark  of  Volney,  the  traveler,  "that  the 
southern  shore  of  Lake  Erie  would  one  day  become 
the  pleasantest  part  of  the  United  States,  and  lined 
with  the  homes  of  a  numerous  people."  The  predic- 
tion is,  in  some  degree,  accomplished — for  wre  have 
already  such  cities  and  towns,  as  Buffalo,  Cleveland, 
Erie,  Sandusky,  Toledo,  and  other  flourishing  places  ; 
and  the  intermediate  shore  is  rapidly  filling  up  with 
intelligent  and  prosperous  citizens. 

Girard  Station,  80  miles  from  Cleveland.  This 
is  a  small  post  town  of  Erie  county,  containing  about 
400  inhabitants. 

Fair  view  is  a  village  at  the  mouth  of  Walnut 
creek. 


Pennsylvania. 


121 


What  is  History  ?  We  are  here  in  the  very  midst 
of  the  civilization  of  the  Earth.  We  are  near  the 
city  of  Erie.  In  twenty  hours  we  shall  he  in  the 
great  city  of  New  York,  which,  with  its  surround- 
ings, has  a  million  of  people.  We  are  moving  on 
the  newest  and  greatest  element  of  civilization — 
the  Railway.  We  are  in  sight  of  the  most  splendid 
steamers.  We  are  surrounded  by  ladies  and  gentle- 
men. With  all  this,  we  cannot  trace  the  history  of 
this  spot  beyond  the  life  of  a  single  man!  We  are 
a  nation  grown  up  in  a  day — and  beyond  a  century 
or  two,  all  on  this  continent  lies  in  clouds  and  shad- 
ows. I  thought  of  this  in  endeavoring  to  get  some 
idea  of  the  first  settlement  of  this  district.  But  I 
cannot.  Robert  Proud,  who  wrote  what  he  called 
the  history  of  Pennsylvania,  about  the  year  1776, 
says,  "there  were  then  eleven  counties  in  Pennsylva- 
nia, (there  are  now  sixty-three)  of  which,  Bedford 
and  Westmoreland  were  the  only  ones  wrest  of  the 
Alleghenies.  Of  these,  he  says  they  are  "frontier 
counties,  in  the  back  parts  of  the  province,  next  the 
Indians :  they  Avere  laid  out  but  very  lately,  and  are 
as  yet,  but  thinly  inhabited  and  little  improved — 
being  the  most  remote  from  the  capital  of  the  prov- 
ince." Just  think — the  great  States  in  the  valley 
of  the  Ohio,  were  then,  as  the  sheriff  would  say, 
non  est  inventus — and  Western  Pennsylvania,  now 
flourishing  with  half  a  million  of  inhabitants,  was  a 


122         The  Illustrated  Guide. 

mere  frontier,  where  the  daring  emigrant  was  just 
"building  his  cabin  among  the  Indians!  But  what 
Indians  were  here  ?  If  we  know  little  of  the  wiiite 
settlements,  we  know  less  of  the  Indians. 

The  Indian  settlers  here  were  very  much  in  the 
same  pursuit  and  character  as  the  whites.  It  does 
not  seem  very  clear,  that  there  were  any  permanent 
residents  in  this  region.  The  Indians  who  dwelt 
here,  were  the  outguards  or  hunters  of  the  great  Iro- 
quois confederacy.  On  the  Susquehannah,  Beaver 
creek,  and  possibly  along  the  whole  Lake  shore,  the 
Indian  inhabitants  were  the  Delatvares — a  leading 
tribe  of  the  Iroquois.  These  did  not  belong  strictly 
to  the  Six  Nations;  but  were  united  with  other 
tribes  in  another  confederacy.  The  Delawares  were 
among  the  most  renowned,  as  well  as  noble  families 
of  aboriginals.    Thev  seldom  exhibited  the  traits  of 

CD  */ 

meanness  and  ferocity,  so  common  with  most  Indian 
tribes  ;  but  were  generally  fair  and  honorable.  The 
Delawares,  like  most  of  the  Eastern  tribes,  have 
nearly  died  out.  The  remnants  of  the  tribe  were  re- 
moved beyond  the  Mississippi,  where  they  still 
remain. 

Erie,  or  Presque  Isle — 95  miles  from  Cleveland, 
348  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and  507  miles  from  New 
York,  via  the  N.  Y.  and  Erie  Railroad. 

We  are  now  at  a  very  remarkable  place,  naturally, 
historically  and  socially.    We  are  at  one  of  the  great 


Erie. 


123 


points  on  the  great  Lake  frontier.  I  must  tell  you 
a  little  more  of  it  than  of  most  towns.  The  name 
was  originally  Presque  Isle — so  called  by  the  French 
— which  signifies  almost  an  island;  for  such  is  the 
fact  On  the  west  of  the  bay,  a  long  peninsula  runs 
nearly  parallel  with  the  eastern  or  southern  shore,  so 
as  almost  to  inclose  wThat  is  now  the  bay  and  harbor 
of  Erie.  This  peninsula  has  latterly  been  converted 
into  a  real  island,  by  the  gradual  wearing  away  of 
the  isthmus,  which  connected  it  with  the  main  land, 
so  that  the  harbor  of  Erie  has  now  two  entrances. 
It  will  readily  be  seen  that  this  geographical  confor- 
mation makes  one  of  the  very  best  harbors  that  can 
be  conceived;  but  for  a  long  time  a  great  difficulty 
was  experienced,  as  in  nearly  all  the  Lake  ports,  by 
the  formation  of  a  sand-bar  across  the  entrance.  The 
United  States  government  has  expended  here  a  great 
deal  of  money,  in  making  piers  and  improvements  for 
the  harbor.  The  water  on  the  bar  is  now  from  8  to 
10  feet — quite  sufficient  for  such  craft  as  navigate 
the  Lake. 

Erie  lies  beautifully,  on  a  bluff  on  the  south  side 
of  the  bay  and  peninsula.  Erie  is  the  modern  name. 
As  I  said  before,  it  was  called  by  the  French,  who 
were  the  earliest  settlers,  Presque  Isle.  It  appears 
to  have  happened  this  way:  In  1748,  several  Vir- 
ginians, among  whom  were  Thomas  Lee  and  two 
brothers  of  George  Washington,  associated  them- 


124  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

selves  together,  as  the  "  Ohio  Company/'  for  the  set- 
tlement of  western  lands.  They  obtained  an  order 
from  the  British  government  on  the  government  of 
Virginia,  for  half  a  million  of  acres,  two  hundred 
thousand  of  which  were  to  be  located  at  once;  which 
were  to  be  held  ten  years  without  rent,  on  condition 
that  within  seven  years  one  hundred  families  were 
put  upon  it,  and  a  fort  built  for  their  protection. 
This  the  company  proposed  to  do  at  once.  Other 
companies  were  formed,  and  other  grants  made.  But 
before  this,  the  French  had  made  settlements  on  the 
lower  Ohio,  and  on  a  line  between  them  and  Canada. 
This  attempt  to  settle  the  upper  Ohio,  therefore,  at 
once  excited  their  jealousy.  They  saw  that  if  the 
English  got  a  foothold  here,  they  would  descend  and 
fall  on  the  French  posts  below. 

In  February,  1751,  Christopher  Gist,  the  same  per- 
son who  went  out  afterwards  with  Washington,  went 
out  as  the  agent  of  the  ?  Ohio  Company,"  to  examine 
the  western  lands,  and  was  gone  seven  months,  de- 
scending as  low  as  the  falls  of  Ohio.  In  November 
of  the  same  year,  Gist  commenced  a  thorough  survey 
of  the  lands  east  of  the  Kenhawa,  which  were  to  be 
occupied  by  the  Kenhawa  Company.  In  the  mean- 
while the  French  were  not  idle.  They  took  imme- 
diate steps  to  fortify  posts  on  the  upper  Ohio.  They 
began  by  establishing  a  post  at  this  place — Presque 
Isle,  or  Erie,  on  the  Lake.    From  Erie  they  opened 


Erie. 


125 


a  wagon  road  to  a  little  lake  at  the  head  of  French 
Creek — about  fifteen  miles — and  there  they  built 
another  fort.  These  were  the  first  settlements  of  Erie 
county,  and  were  made  more  than  a  hundred  years 
ago. 

Thus,  too,  began  what  is  called  the  "Old  French 
War;"  and  in  that  began  the  military  education  of 
George  Washington,  the  leader  and  hero  of  our  revo- 
lution. The  French  continued  to  build  their  forts 
and  posts.  The  English  did  the  same.  The  French 
tampered  with  the  Indians.  The  English  counter- 
acted them ;  and  so  mutual  aggressions  and  encroach- 
ments were  made,  till  blood  was  shed  and  the  war 
commenced.  "It  was  now,"  says  Mr.  Perkins  in  his 
Annals,  "April,  1754.  The  fort  at  Venango  was 
finished,  and  all  along  the  line  of  French  creek, 
troops  were  gathering,  and  the  wilderness  echoed  the 
strange  sounds  of  a  European  camp — the  watchword, 
the  command,  the  clang  of  muskets,  the  uproar  of 
soldiers,  the  cry  of  the  sutler;  and  with  these  were 
mingled  the  shrieks  of  drunken  Indians,  won  over 
from  their  old  friendship  by  rum  and  soft  words. 
Scouts  were  abroad,  and  little  groups  formed  about 
the  tents  or  huts  of  the  officers,  to  learn  the  move- 
ments of  the  British.  Canoes  were  gathering,  and 
cannon  were  painfully  hauled  here  and  there.  All 
was  movement  and  activity  among  the  old  forests 


123  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

and  on  the  hill  sides,  covered  already  with  young 
wild  flowers,  from  Lake  Erie  to  the  Allegheny." 

So  began,  in  these  wild  woods,  on  the  shores  of 
Lake  Erie,  and  on  the  beautiful  Ohio,  the  first  clash 
— the  first  alarm — the  first  battle  cry  of  that  great 
war,  which  engaged  all  Europe;  which  was  scarcely 
interrupted  by  the  peace  of  1763,  when  the  mur- 
murs of  the  Revolution  began,  and  which  continued 
to  roll  on  from  revolution  to  revolution,  overturning 
and  overturning,  till  the  battle  of  Waterloo — sixty 
years  of  terrible  conflict,  resulting  in  the  independ- 
ence and  liberty  of  America,  and  the  commencement 
of  a  great  social  and  political  change  in  all  the  na- 
tions of  Europe. 

So  began  the  settlement  of  Erie;  but  Erie  was  for 
half  a  century,  though  important  as  a  position,  but  a 
small  village.  In  1763  it  was  attacked  and  taken 
by  a  confederacy  of  hostile  Indians.  In  1794,  it  was 
threatened  by  the  celebrated  Brant,  in  consequence 
of  a  dispute  between  the  United  States  and  the  Six 
Nations,  as  to  the  erection  of  a  fort  there. 

In  writing  to  the  British  authorities,  Brant  says, 
"In  regard  to  the  Presque  Isle  business,  should  we 
not  get  an  answer  at  the  time  limited,  it  is  our  busi- 
ness to  push  these  fellows  hard,  and  therefore  it  is 
my  intention  to  form  my  camp  at  Point  Appineau; 
and  I  would  esteem  it  a  favor  of  his  excellency  the 
Lieutenant  Governor,  to  lend  me  four  or  five  batteaux. 


Anthony  Wayne. 


127 


Should  it  so  turn  out,  and  should  these  fellows  not 
go  off,  and  O'Bail  continue  of  the  same  opinion,  an 
expedition  against  these  Yankees  must  of  conse- 
quence take  place." 

This  was  written  in  July;  but  the  decisive  victory 
of  Wayne,  in  August,  over  the  Indians  of  the  north- 
west, ended,  if  there  ever  existed,  any  desire  of  the 
Six  Nations  to  war  about  Presque  Isle. 

Connected  with  these  Indian  wars,  was  another 
event  of  great  interest:  the  death  of  Anthony  Wayne 
— the  Mad  Anthony  of  the  Revolution.  Wayne  is 
one  of  the  most  remarkable  names  in  American  his- 
-  tory;  and  it  was  here  the  great  soldier  died.  Pie 
was  on  his  return  from  Detroit,  in  1796,  where  the 
treaty  of  Greenville  had  been  made,  and  the  British 
posts  evacuated,  when  he  wras  taken  suddenly  sick, 
and  died  at  Erie.  There  was  a  good  deal  of  mystery, 
and  some  talk  about  the  circumstance  of  his  death. 
He  had  a  controversy  with  General  Wilkinson,  who 
was  then,  and  indeed  always,  of  rather  doubtful  stand- 
ing in  the  public  mind.  It  was  said  that  Wayne  had 
important  papers  affecting  Wilkinson,  in  his  trunk. 
However  that  was,  Wayne  suddenly  died  at  Erie, 
and  his  bones  were  finally  carried  to  Chester  county, 
Pennsjdvania,  whence  he  came. 

Anthony  Wayne  was  a  remarkable  man.  He  was 
born  in  Chester  county,  Pennsylvania,  in  1745.  His 
father  was  a  farmer,  of  excellent  character,  who  ren- 


128         The  Illustrated  Guide. 

dered  considerable  service  to  the  government.  He 
took  great  pains  to  educate  his  son,  especially  in  the 
sciences.  Anthony  entered  the  army,  as  Colonel,  in 
1775,  accompanied  one  of  the  expeditions  to  Canada, 
and  was  shot  in  the  leg  at  the  action  of  the  Three 
Rivers.  In  1776,  he  was  made  a  Brigadier  General. 
He  fought  at  Brandywine,  at  Germantown,  at  Mon- 
mouth, and  finally  stormed  Stony  Point,  on  the  Hud- 
son, in  1779.  It  was  for  this  desperate  action  he 
received  the  soubriquet  of  "Mad  Anthony."  He  was 
in  the  campaign  against  Cornwallis,  and  was  finally 
appointed  to  the  command  of  the  southern  army. 
In  fine,  there  was  not  an  important  battle,  or  hazar- 
dous enterprise,  from  the  beginning  to  the  end  of  the 
Revolution,  in  which  he  was  not  more  or  less  distin- 
guished. His  career  was  a  brilliant  and  successful 
one. 

When  the  Revolution  was  closed,  the  constitution 
framed,  and  the  Northwestern  Territory  constitu- 
ted, Wayne  was  called  upon  a  new  theatre  of  action. 
Hamar  and  St.  Clair  had  both  been  defeated  by  the 
Indians;  the  latter  most  disastrously.  In  this  con- 
dition of  affairs,  our  whole  northwestern  frontier  was 
exposed,  the  people  disheartened,  and  the  Indians 
triumphant.  It  was  at  this  time,  that  Washington, 
who  well  knew  the  character  of  Wayne,  appointed 
him  to  the  command  of  the  Northwestern  army. 
In  the  summer  of  1792,  he  was  busily  engaged  in 


Anthony  Wayne.  129 

collecting  his  troops,  and  in  training  and  disciplining 
them  for  the  particular  service  they  were  meant  for. 
In  December,  1792,  the  army  which  was  called 
Legion  of  the  United  States,  assembled  at  Legion- 
ville,  twenty-two  miles  below  Pittsburgh.  There  it 
passed  the  winter,  till  April,  1793 — when,  being 
taken  down  the  river,  it  encamped  on  the  present 
town  plat  of  Cincinnati,  and  near  Fort  Washington. 
There — in  consequence  of  the  negotiations  carried  on 
by  Commissioners — it  remained  till  October,  being 
engaged  in  drilling  and  preparations.  On  the  7th 
October,  1793,  Wayne  and  his  "Legion"  left  Cincin- 
nati ;  but  encamped  at  what  is  now  Greenville,  Darke 
county.  In  the  meanwhile,  the  field  of  St.  Clair's 
defeat  had  been  recovered,  and  "Fort  Recovery" 
built  there.  In  June,  1794,  Fort  Recovery  was  at- 
tacked by  Little  Turtle,  with  1000  warriors,  but 
after  a  severe  contest,  he  was  repelled.  Wayne  de- 
clared that  there  were  many  white  men  with  them, 
and  the  Indians  were  really  instigated  by  the  British. 
On  the  8tli  of  August,  "Fort  Defiance"  was  built 
at  the  junction  of  the  Auglaize  and  the  Maumee. 
At  length,  on  the  20th  of  August,  Wayne  encoun- 
tered the  united  forces  of  the  Indians  on  the  Mau- 
mee, and  completely  defeated  and  overwhelmed 
them  in  a  decisive  battle.  This  battle  was  in  fact, 
the  close  of  the  Revolution.  Up  to  this  time,  the 
British  had  never  delivered  up  the  western  posts, 
10 


130         The  Illustrated  Guide. 

in  conformity  with  the  Treaty  of  1783.  On  the 
contrary,  it  was  clearly  proved  that  the  British  au- 
thorities in  Canada,  had  instigated  and  excited  the 
Indians  in  their  hostilities.  The  battle  of  the  Mau- 
mee,  however,  ended  all  this,  and  soon  after  the 
posts  in  the  northwest  were  delivered.  The  spirit  of 
Wayne  is  very  well  illustrated  by  a  terse  and  piquant 
correspondence  between  Major  Campbell — who  com- 
manded the  British  post  on  the  Miami — and  Wayne, 
after  the  battle  of  Maumee.  Campbell  demanded  to 
know  why  the  American  Army  had  taken  a  post 
u  almost  within  reach  of  the  guns  of  a  fort  occupied 
by  his  Majesty's  troops to  which  Wayne  replied 
that  u  were  you  entitled  to  answer,  the  most  full  and 
satisfactory  one  was  announced  to  you  from  the 
muzzles  of  my  small  arms  yesterday  morning,  in  the 
action  against  the  horde  of  savages  in  the  vicinity  of 
your  post,  which  terminated  gloriously  to  the  Ameri- 
can arms ;  but  had  it  continued  until  the  Indians, 
&c,  were  driven  under  the  influence  of  the  post  and 
guns  you  mention,  they  would  not  have  much  impe- 
ded the  progress  of  the  victorious  army  under  my 
command,  as  no  such  post  was  established  at  the 
commencement  of  the  present  war  between  the  Indi- 
ans and  the  United  States." 

Wayne,  after  the  battle,  proceeded  to  Detroit, 
there  to  finish  the  business  of  the  war,  and  the  posts. 
Having  remained  in  the  northwest  more  than  a  year 


Anthony  Wayne. 


131 


longer,  at  the  close  of  179 6,  he  took  passage  in  a 
sail  vessel  for  Erie,  on  his  way  to  Washington,  to 
answer  some  secret  charges  preferred  against  him  by 
Wilkinson,  but  which  were  known  to  few,  and  were 
never  publicly  made.  When  near  Presque  Isle, 
(Erie),  he  was  taken  (it  was  said)  with  gout  in  the 
stomach,  suddenly  died,  and  was  buried  on  the 
shores  of  the  Lake.  Some  years  after,  his  body  was 
taken  up  and  removed  to  his  native  place — Chester, 
Pennsylvania.  It  was  quite  singular  that  when 
taken  up,  his  body  was  still  fresh  and  quite  pre- 
served. This  was  probably  caused  by  some  peculiar 
property  of  the  earth  or  fluid,  in  which  he  was  buried. 

Wayne  was  about  57  years  of  age  at  his  death, 
and,  on  the  whole,  was  probably  the  most  successful 
General  of  the  Revolution — and  certainly  one  of  the 
most  brilliant,  brave,  and  skillful.  The  soubriquet 
of  "Mad  Anthony"  lives  embalmed  in  memory,  and 
fresh  with  glory. 

Erie  City— Presque  Isle — is  now  a  large,  beauti- 
ful and  flourishing  place.  I  have  visited  it  three 
times  in  the  last  thirty  years,  and  each  time  it  had 
greatly  improved.  It  lies  on  the  south  shore  of  the 
Lake,  on  a  bluff  situated  on  and  overlooking  Presque 
Isle  Bay.  The  plan  of  the  borough  extends  three 
miles  along  the  Lake,  by  an  almost  equal  depth.  The 
principal  street  lies  from  the  harbor,  on  the  road  to 
Waterford.    It  has  eight  or  ten  churches,  schools, 


132         The  Illustrated  Guide. 

seminaries,  banks,  mills,  factories,  stores,  and  all  the 
machinery  and  adjuncts  of  a  busy,  thriving  place. 
It  employs  a  large  capital,  and  has  some  8000  inhab- 
itants. 

During  the  war  of  1812-15,  this  was  a  rendez- 
vous and  naval  station  for  the  United  States  marine 
on  Lake  Erie.  Here  Perry's  fleet  was  built  in  about 
seventy  days  from  the  time  the  timber  was  standing 
in  the  forest  !  To  this  place  he  returned,  after  a  glo- 
rious victory,  with  his  prizes,  and  his  vessels  were 
afterwards  sunk  in  the  harbor  near  the  navy  yard. 
The  Lawrence,  his  flag  ship,  was  recently  in  part  out 
of  water,  and  visitors  would  frequently  cut  relics 
from  its  hulk. 

To  the  right  of  the  town,  on  a  high  bank  overlook- 
ing the  bay,  are  the  remains  of  the  old  French  fort 
— Presque  Isle — now  overgrown  with  weeds.  Half 
a  mile  beyond  it,  is  the  blockhouse,  erected  for  the 
protection  of  the  navy  yard  during  the  late  war. 
Wayne  w^as,  at  his  own  request,  buried  under  the 
flag  staff  of  the  fort;  but,  as  I  before  said,  he  was 
removed  by  his  relatives.  Forty  years  have  elapsed 
since  the  victory  of  Perry,  and  Lake  Erie  has  been 
no  more  disturbed  by  the  thunders  of  battle.  Perry, 
the  victor  of  Erie,  has  long  gone  to  his  final  home, 
where  the  grass  grows  over  his  head. 

How  sleep  the  brave  who  sink  to  rest 
By  all  their  country's  wishes  blest ! 


Conclusion. 


133 


The  Lake  Shore  Road,  upon  which  we  have  trav- 
eled, passes  in  the  rear  of  Erie;  so  that  in  fact  we 
get  but  a  distant  view  of  the  town,  which,  as  we  go 
east,  may  be  seen  on  the  rising  bluff  to  the  left.  A 
very  good  meal  may  usually  be  got  at  Erie;  and  if 
the  traveler  pleases,  he  can  lie  over  a  few  hours,  to 
walk  round  the  town,  and  then  resume  his  journey. 

The  Sunbury  and  Erie — now  provided  with  ample 
means — will  terminate  here,  and  make  a  direct  con- 
nection between  Erie  and  both  Philadelphia  and  New 
York.  Beyond  a  doubt,  this  will  greatly  add  to  the 
prosperity  of  Erie,  as  well  as  add  new  facilities  to 
the  commerce  of  the  northwest. 

From  this  point  the  Lake  Shore  Railroad  will  con- 
duct you  to  Dunkirk  and  Buffalo,  thence  to  any 
point  in  the  world  you  may  desire  to  reach.  But 
here,  my  fellow  traveler,  you  and  I  must  part.  I 
will  stop  here,  and  then  wend  nry  way  back  to  Ohio, 
perhaps  to  Mississippi — who  knows? 

Reader — whoever  thou  art — farewell!  I  have 
taken  pleasure  in  your  company,  and,  although  we 
have  met  only  by  the  way  side,  and  may  meet  no 
more,  yet  it  is  pleasant  to  have  met — to  have  seen 
together  so  much  of  our  broad  country — to  have  en- 
joyed the  whirl  of  motion — the  velocity  unknown  to 
our  fathers — the  consummation  of  modern  art.  Three 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  we  have  traveled  together, 
and  all  has  been  green,  and  fresh,  and  beautiful,  and 


134  The  Illustrated  Guide. 

grand;  and  all  has  been  done  by  the  light  of  a  single 
day! 

Let  us  call  the  Past  and  the  Future  to  witness 
this  same  country  under  different  aspects.  The  Past 
comes  cold  with  the  winds  of  the  wilderness — dark 
with  the  solemn  shadows  of  the  forest;  surrounded 
with  Indian  warriors,  and  lonely  with  civilization  or 
art.  Slowly  she  wanders  by — overhung  with  clouds 
and  darkness !  Such  is  the  past  The  present  is 
rich  and  beautiful.  But  here  comes  the  Future, 
draped  in  all  the  rich  and  gorgeous  growth  of  an 
hundred  years.  What  glorious  city  is  that,  panoplied 
in  such  vast  magnificence  ?  The  Queen  of  the  West 
sweeps  by  with  her  million  of  inhabitants,  her  splen- 
did temples  •  her  gorgeous  paintings ;  her  towers  of 
science ;  her  pictured  gardens ;  her  vast  array  of 
innumerable  arts !  And  who  is  this  that  seems 
her  sister,  sitting  on  the  Lake  ?  Thou,  beautiful 
Cleveland,  art  risen  to  high  proportions  !  Gem  of  the 
Lakes — mart  of  commerce,  thou  lookest  out  upon 
the  waters,  like  one  who  holds  sovereignty  over  the 
waves  !  And  thou,  fair  Ohio  !  spread  out  in  all  thy 
affluence  of  soil,  thy  culture  and  thy  energy,  thou 
hast  become  the  Imperial  State — the  abode  of 
millions,  the  seat  of  wealth,  the  residence  of  glory ! 

Reader  dos't  thou  doubt,  when  beholding  what  is 
and  what  has  been,  that  such  shall  be  ?  No,  thou 
art  made  a  prophet  by  this  clay's  travel.  Thou 


Conclusion. 


135 


knowest — for  thou  hast  seen  it — that  here,  in  this 
central  West,  is  the  seat,  and  material,  and  power  of 
an  Empire.  The  course  of  Nature  is  onward  and 
upward.  Empires  will  be  formed  in  America,  as 
they  were  in  old  Asia ;  but  with  far  higher  arts,  far 
greater  power  of  life  and  glory.  Cities  are  rising 
here,  before  whose  consummation  of  splendor,  Baby- 
lon would  have  faded  into  twilight ;  and  Genius  will 
display  its  inventions  on  a  greater  and  nobler  scale, 
than  the  world  has  ever  known. 

Reader — whoever  thou  art — farewell!  Where- 
ever  thou  goest,  may  thy  dreams  be  pleasant,  and 
thy  soul  at  peace  !  We  have  met,  like  the  little 
waves  on  the  deep — for  a  time  blended,  then  scat- 
tered— rolling  on  in  the  bright  sun,  and  presently 
breaking  on  the  shore  !  Then,  no  drop  lost,  we  shall 
be  mingled  in  the  great  Ocean  of  Eternity.  From 
that  bourne,  no  traveler  shall  ever  return !  


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